Is this starter OK?

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Vinnie

Project manager "Project AmsterFoose"
7173 Mustang Supporter Member
Joined
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Location
Amsterdam, The Netherlands
My Car
1973 Mustang Grande 351C 2V, built on the very last production day (July 6, 1973) for Grande's.
Hi folks,

Tomorrow I'm getting a set of hydraulic ramps that will allow me to finally see under my car by myself, very excited :)

The first thing I wanna do underneath my car is replace the old starter with a high torque starter.

My car has a 351C with a C6 behind it and I'd like to ask a few questions about replacing the starter.

- Do I need to drain oil before I start or is it simply unscrewing the old one and bolting the new one back on?

- Overhere in The Netherlands the starters are all quite expensive so I am looking on ebay finding this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-Made-Ford-Mini-PMGR-Starter-302-351-Automatic-Transmissions-High-Torque/111749868671?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D37437%26meid%3D7c038e8338c74cdf8e9897b489080931%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D181679770343

Is that the right starter for my car? What do I need to look out for?

Any starter recommendations are also appreciated :)

Cheers,

Vince.

 
It is simply an un-bolt and bolt back on. Be prepared for some weight of the unit when it is finally loose: it is quite heavy.

 
the Ad didn't say which 351 engine.. this is my first time in the ford area in many yrs but i recall the 351W and 302 are the same block.. were the

351C is a big block.. i don't know if that makes a difference or not.. someone will chime in, or at lease question it..

with that said i like the smaller one, high torque and physical size

 
Loosen the top starter bolt first, about half a turn or so. Then loosen the other bolt. Then remove the top bolt. Then the bottom. As midlife said, it is heavier than you think.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
A bit of rewiring involved for starter/solenoid combo...

20aquj4.jpg


Thought it was worth mentioning.

Paul

 
A bit of rewiring involved for starter/solenoid combo...

20aquj4.jpg


Thought it was worth mentioning.

Paul
Very worth while. Pretty simple rewire but that diagram makes it very easy.

I purchased mine off amazon for like $45 and it works fantastic.

 
351C is a big block..
Incorrect.

The 351C is the same small block bellhousing pattern as the 302 & 351W

You might be referring to the 351/400 modified series engine that has the bellhousing of the 429/460 engines, commonly referred to as the 385 series blocks.

Of course there was 1 exception to this in 1974, some 400 blocks were dual bolt pattern with the small block pattern and the 385 series pattern.

Nice thing about the Ford is of the V8 starters all of the auto trans versions will interchange as long as they are 2 bolt.

You'll like the mini starter. Run the heavy battery cable to the positive side of the solenoid on the fender apron and connect the onboard starter solenoid wire to the fender apron solenoid switched side and you'll be good to go.

 
351C is a big block..
Incorrect.

The 351C is the same small block bellhousing pattern as the 302 & 351W

You might be referring to the 351/400 modified series engine that has the bellhousing of the 429/460 engines, commonly referred to as the 385 series blocks.

Of course there was 1 exception to this in 1974, some 400 blocks were dual bolt pattern with the small block pattern and the 385 series pattern.

Nice thing about the Ford is of the V8 starters all of the auto trans versions will interchange as long as they are 2 bolt.

You'll like the mini starter. Run the heavy battery cable to the positive side of the solenoid on the fender apron and connect the onboard starter solenoid wire to the fender apron solenoid switched side and you'll be good to go.
Back in the early 70's, in the vernacular of the day, the Cleveland was

referred to as a big block. My mechanic who did extensive work on

these engines while in high school still refers to the engine as a big

block. Maybe because it was designed to bang fenders with the 429

on NASCAR circuits all day long.

mike

 
The ground wire for the engine runs from the battery to the bottom screw on the voltage regulator and then to a bolt on the block and provides the return for the starter. It should be at least a 6 gauge (13mm sq) wire.

 
Don C is correct on the 351 W & C compatibility. I've heard nothing but good about this company and they also include the wiring you'll need to run from your fender solenoid to the starter mounted solenoid. There is also about a five pound weight savings when you use this starter. I installed the Motorcraft version of this starter on my 85 GT and my Mach 1's and never looked back!! http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-9936-ford-mini-pmgr-racing-starter-302-351-higher-torque-3205-sfd0001.aspx

That DB electrical seems to be the cheapest around. We have never heard of them here in Europe but it's good?

 
Don C is correct on the 351 W & C compatibility. I've heard nothing but good about this company and they also include the wiring you'll need to run from your fender solenoid to the starter mounted solenoid. There is also about a five pound weight savings when you use this starter. I installed the Motorcraft version of this starter on my 85 GT and my Mach 1's and never looked back!! http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-9936-ford-mini-pmgr-racing-starter-302-351-higher-torque-3205-sfd0001.aspx

That DB electrical seems to be the cheapest around. We have never heard of them here in Europe but it's good?
DB electrical isn't bad. They are not the best starters, alternators, ect out there but the price is right and they have a no hassle 1 year warranty with a 2 year warranty available on most items. I have run a ton of their starters in my quads over the years and alternators in my work car. I did have few over the years go bad, but they replaced it at no charge no questions asked. Im sure there are higher quality starters out there but for the price these cant be beat. Just my opinion.

 
I recently installed a DB Electrical and works like a charm. A lot more starting torque that you feel right away. It comes with the wiring and connections you need. Very easy rewiring.

1971 M-code Mach 1

 
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