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Ram Air Twist Locks


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Hi guys - 

 

So, I think I'm finally may be in the home stretch of getting a painter to paint my car.  It's been a long and broken road to say the least..had to pull the project from the last guy due to some serious disagreements.  I'm behind about a year.  Anyway..before I bring the car in, there are a few final things I have to button up - and one of those is the issue of twist locks for Ram Air Hoods.  My car will be a 460 mated to a Tremec-T56 with functioning ram air, etc.  This is not a numbers matching car, so, I can cheat a little on correctness etc.  My hood inner does have the provisions for the locks (ie. holes), but the outer has not been cut.  To be honest, I really like the look of cars without the locks - I think it gives the hood a cleaner look.  However, I understand the importance of the locks for extra hold down capacity.  This car will not be a trailer queen, so, it will see some high speed exposure (at the track and I'm sure during the occasional street duel).  Question to 'yall  - what experiences do you guys have either way?  Put it this way - if I get a bunch of responses telling me that the ram air hood with only the latch is not reliable - I'll likely add the locks.  Likewise, if everyone says they have never had issues, I will likely forego. Appreciate the feedback..

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Many musclecars didn't have anything like hood pins or hood locks to supplement the regular hood latch. I know of many high speed maneuvers by musclecars far above legal speed limits (well north of 100), and I never once heard of someone's hood popping open. I'm sure it could happen, but then perhaps the stock latch wasn't functioning properly to begin with. That being said, I think they look great and I'd recommend adding them. And sure, if you're going to race the car then why not add that little bit extra of protection. They are stock on my '71 429 CJ-R hood and people many times comment as though I added them, and are a bit surprised they are stock. These people are of course unfamiliar with 60's and 70's musclecars in general.

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I have NASA hoods on two cars, one with locks and one without. It's really a matter of your personal preference rather than function. Our cars look good either way.

 

 

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1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle

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satellite.png Proud Space Junk Award Winner!

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7746-E417-96-F1-4-DD1-B596-9-C0124-D16-A11.jpg

 

2-BF0-F807-5-D36-4-C71-9-A0-F-D7-F04-E3-F599-B.jpg

 

79949562-53-EA-441-F-B6-AA-A4-FE2-DCB858-D.jpg

 

I just added them to my car. But I did it for the looks, not for safety. These are really only intended for cosmetic looks. They will probably be a pain till I get them fine tuned and get use d to having them on.

John - 72 Q Code

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They have no real purpose beside looking cool and racy unless you'd want to remove the center lock. They are beautiful parts for sure.

 

Busy restoring these (and the hood) for my 71 , I've noticed while restoring the hood that there was rust at the holes edges, matching the radius of the lower cups.

As the car has been repainted at some point, I don't know if there was some kind of thin gasket underneath them or if they were installed with some kind of sealant.

If there was a gasket of some kind, is there a ref number for these?

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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jpaz, Your hood is a repop, was it a good fit and quality?

 

I know he wants the hood black-out and stripes so in reality, the hood black-out package includes hood locks. His car is not to be concours, but he does want it to look like an authentic Mach 1 with a few mods under the hood.

I do believe there is function to the hood locks with ram air to maintain a complete, constant seal with the air cleaner, but was it intended as a design cue or purely function?

I guess one question he's getting at and not asked, is can the holes for the locks be reworked into a non lock hood cost effectively, or will he be better to buy a repop?

Geoff.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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jpaz, Your hood is a repop, was it a good fit and quality?

 

I know BFH429 and we are working to achieve the look he wants. I know he wants the hood black-out and stripes so in reality, the hood black-out package includes hood locks. His car is not to be concours, but he does want it to look like an authentic Mach 1 with a few mods under the hood.

I do believe there is function to the hood locks with ram air to maintain a complete, constant seal with the air cleaner, but was it intended as a design cue or purely function?

I guess one question he's getting at and not asked, is can the holes for the locks be reworked into a non lock hood cost effectively, or will he be better to buy a repop?

Geoff.

 

It’s a repo and my shop said it was a bit different than the one that was damaged. I think he said it was wider than the old one, which was also a repo. But it’s ok, fits way better than the repo left fender did.

IMO the hood locks are just for looks, not function.

 

Not sure what you mean about the holes Geoff. The holes are on the underside already. I think he wants to know if it’s worthwhile to cut holes and install them.

John - 72 Q Code

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I think they look awesome, but then again the hoods look great without them as well (coolest hoods ever, IMHO).  

 

After learning as much as I have about these cars, I admit that the hood looks a little naked without the locks if there is blackout applied.  Seeing the hoods with the TuTone (Boss or Ram Air) and no locks says to me, "I just wanted the look, but didn't feel like going all the way to make it at least appear authentic."  It's kind of like the cars with Ram Air stickers... but no Ram Air - why bother if it's not real?  Now you've given me a reason to pick out everything else wrong with the car.

 

Keep in mind - I'm not a stickler for everything that must be absolutely correct, but I admit those thoughts do go through my mind when I see things that have been done in a less than authentic manner.  Just like I almost hate it now when someone posts Craigslist ads for our cars - they're just begging for scrutiny (especially when the seller wants Boss prices for a ragged out 302 Sportroof).

 

 

Sorry to get so far off track - if you don't want the locks, don't put 'em on.   :whistling:

Eric

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Humm, the locks are very functional. There is no way the hood locks can come loose unless you push them down and rotate them The way the cuts are made on the pins make them very good.

As far as the hood coming open without them. The hood latch has to be held over to open the hood the secondary catch I believe was required by safety standards.

The reason the hood latch is not painted and has phosphate coating is so that it does not stick on the painted surface. Never paint your hood latch or hood hinges they are phosphate for a reason.

I had a front U joint come apart on my 1950 Ford street rod years ago. I was doing about 70 on the interstate and heard something hit the floor. Was clip out of U-joint in front, then the cap and then it went crazy. It broke the cast iron tail shaft on the transmission and shook the car so hard that the hood latch popped but the secondary catch caught the hood. The emergency brake cables was all that save me and I got stopped.

There was never a gasket or sealer in the hood locks. You have to tape up a hole saw to center it in the reinforcement on the underside to cut the holes. I think they look better with the locks for sure.

I just put my brackets back on yesterday after cleaning them.

When I do my Q vert it came with a NASA hood but no locks or black out. When I paint it I will do a hood with locks and black and one without so I can go either way.

That was one of the cheapest options at I think $18.00 in 73.

 

DSC-0960.jpg

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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jpaz, Your hood is a repop, was it a good fit and quality?

 

I know BFH429 and we are working to achieve the look he wants. I know he wants the hood black-out and stripes so in reality, the hood black-out package includes hood locks. His car is not to be concours, but he does want it to look like an authentic Mach 1 with a few mods under the hood.

I do believe there is function to the hood locks with ram air to maintain a complete, constant seal with the air cleaner, but was it intended as a design cue or purely function?

I guess one question he's getting at and not asked, is can the holes for the locks be reworked into a non lock hood cost effectively, or will he be better to buy a repop?

Geoff.

 

It’s a repo and my shop said it was a bit different than the one that was damaged. I think he said it was wider than the old one, which was also a repo. But it’s ok, fits way better than the repo left fender did.

IMO the hood locks are just for looks, not function.

 

Not sure what you mean about the holes Geoff. The holes are on the underside already. I think he wants to know if it’s worthwhile to cut holes and install them.

 Thanks John for your comments. Repop stuff never seems to be exactly right, but then I don't have any repop stuff other than a tail light panel, which fitted perfectly.

My question was in regard to the top surface holes. I know the under side frame has the indents there already.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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There was never a gasket or sealer in the hood locks.  

thx. I think i'll add one, very thin.

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Hmmmm. The hood locks do add to the safety (closed position) of the hood when properly set up, in addition to the standard hood latch. They are not just for show...

"Yes dear", has kept me in the hobby a long time...

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Ya I guess they would add some safety, just saying I didn’t add them for that. I did have my hood latch come undone before though, but the safety catch kept it from opening all the way up on the freeway. I just added the twist locks for looks, and I really don’t know much about the safety of them.

John - 72 Q Code

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Hi guys - 

 

So, I think I'm finally may be in the home stretch of getting a painter to paint my car.  It's been a long and broken road to say the least..had to pull the project from the last guy due to some serious disagreements.  I'm behind about a year.  Anyway..before I bring the car in, there are a few final things I have to button up - and one of those is the issue of twist locks for Ram Air Hoods.  My car will be a 460 mated to a Tremec-T56 with functioning ram air, etc.  This is not a numbers matching car, so, I can cheat a little on correctness etc.  My hood inner does have the provisions for the locks (ie. holes), but the outer has not been cut.  To be honest, I really like the look of cars without the locks - I think it gives the hood a cleaner look.  However, I understand the importance of the locks for extra hold down capacity.  This car will not be a trailer queen, so, it will see some high speed exposure (at the track and I'm sure during the occasional street duel).  Question to 'yall  - what experiences do you guys have either way?  Put it this way - if I get a bunch of responses telling me that the ram air hood with only the latch is not reliable - I'll likely add the locks.  Likewise, if everyone says they have never had issues, I will likely forego. Appreciate the feedback..

 

I think they actually do provide a function, which is why they ALWAYS came with Ram-Air when the scoops were open.

 

My car was original non-ram air and no hood locks. It had the block plates in the hood scoops.  In my high school years I came across a Ram-Air hood and system and converted the car.  When prepping for paint one summer I ran most of the summer with the hod locks out and the scoops open.  I noticed a lot of extra vibration at highway speed on the hood.  After a while I noticed that the hood latch support brackets had torn near the lower mounting bolts at the core support.  The hood would lift about 1/4 inch in the latch.  I figured the open scoops with no locks added enough up-force and vibration to fail the hood latch when the twist locks were not present to help retain and stabilize.

 

Had another friend in high school who ran his with open scoops and no hood pins or twist locks.  His latch let go one night on the highway and popped the hood open at 70 MPH.  It trashed the hood by burying it into the lower edge of the windshield and upper cowl.  Of course it destroyed the hinges too.

 

Those are my thoughts and examples  If you have open scoops you should use the twist locks.  They DO function to hold and stabilize the front of our long hoods.

 

kcmash

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi guys - 

 

So, I think I'm finally may be in the home stretch of getting a painter to paint my car.  It's been a long and broken road to say the least..had to pull the project from the last guy due to some serious disagreements.  I'm behind about a year.  Anyway..before I bring the car in, there are a few final things I have to button up - and one of those is the issue of twist locks for Ram Air Hoods.  My car will be a 460 mated to a Tremec-T56 with functioning ram air, etc.  This is not a numbers matching car, so, I can cheat a little on correctness etc.  My hood inner does have the provisions for the locks (ie. holes), but the outer has not been cut.  To be honest, I really like the look of cars without the locks - I think it gives the hood a cleaner look.  However, I understand the importance of the locks for extra hold down capacity.  This car will not be a trailer queen, so, it will see some high speed exposure (at the track and I'm sure during the occasional street duel).  Question to 'yall  - what experiences do you guys have either way?  Put it this way - if I get a bunch of responses telling me that the ram air hood with only the latch is not reliable - I'll likely add the locks.  Likewise, if everyone says they have never had issues, I will likely forego. Appreciate the feedback..

 

I think they actually do provide a function, which is why they ALWAYS came with Ram-Air when the scoops were open.

 

My car was original non-ram air and no hood locks. It had the block plates in the hood scoops.  In my high school years I came across a Ram-Air hood and system and converted the car.  When prepping for paint one summer I ran most of the summer with the hod locks out and the scoops open.  I noticed a lot of extra vibration at highway speed on the hood.  After a while I noticed that the hood latch support brackets had torn near the lower mounting bolts at the core support.  The hood would lift about 1/4 inch in the latch.  I figured the open scoops with no locks added enough up-force and vibration to fail the hood latch when the twist locks were not present to help retain and stabilize.

 

Had another friend in high school who ran his with open scoops and no hood pins or twist locks.  His latch let go one night on the highway and popped the hood open at 70 MPH.  It trashed the hood by burying it into the lower edge of the windshield and upper cowl.  Of course it destroyed the hinges too.

 

Those are my thoughts and examples  If you have open scoops you should use the twist locks.  They DO function to hold and stabilize the front of our long hoods.

 

kcmash

 

Thanks kcmash!!  This is exactly what I was looking for!  I'm an engineer by profession, and short of asking someone if they have ever taken pressure gradient measurements along the topside of the hood, this answer gives me a very clear mental visual of where the low pressure spots likely are with this hood.  I was always suspicious of the front portion at the corners, and what you're saying seems to corroborate that.  I saw a similar thing with my 1970 Maverick drag car when I took the first couple of rips down the quarter.  Solution there was to adjust the hood latch down a bit and tighten up on the bumpers.  It always It always seemed odd to me that in 71, these "fancy new" locks were developed and offered direct from the factory.  They usually don't do stuff like that unless there is a need - and they must have seen a need.  I'm sold...adding the locks.  So, next question, who offers the best kits, and is there a guide out there on how and where to cut the holes?

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Thanks for all the responses on this guys - I think I am now leaning more towards adding them over omitting. So, next question, who makes the best kits and are there instructions for how and where to put the holes?

 

Marc

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Imo, they are more form than function. Not sure what speed you would have to achieve to have the hood latch fail. I like the old school look of them.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapata

Well, as a reckless teenager. I romped my 70 mach 1 down a long stretch of desert road. I had forgotten that my hood latch was out for chrome. At 120 mph i remembered (to my surprise) that i had no latch. All that was holding my hood down was my twist locks. Quickly hard on the brakes i brought my car down to 20 mph and caught my breath. These hood latch things actually worked!!

Needless to say, they really worked!! I am a believer!!

movie stars with addictions go to the Betty Ford clinic,

I take my addiction to the Henry Ford clinic.lollerz

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They had twist lock hood latches before 71. 68 Shelby had them 69 & 70 Shelby and also 70 Mustang. Beats having the cables and pins flopping all over your paint.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Thanks for all the responses on this guys - I think I am now leaning more towards adding them over omitting.  So, next question, who makes the best kits and are there instructions for how and where to put the holes?

 

Marc

 

 Good decision Marc! There is no doubt in my mind that the locks do have function. a, to hold the hood corners and b, to maintain the all important seal between the hood plenum and the air cleaner. A leak there will affect the air flow and somewhat defeat the purpose of the Ram Air intakes.

NPD list them from original tooling and manufacturer.

Geoff.

 

Marc, sent you an email regards hood clearance. I know someone with a J code, we can measure his intake height.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Thanks for all the responses on this guys - I think I am now leaning more towards adding them over omitting.  So, next question, who makes the best kits and are there instructions for how and where to put the holes?

 

Marc

 

 Good decision Marc! There is no doubt in my mind that the locks do have function. a, to hold the hood corners and b, to maintain the all important seal between the hood plenum and the air cleaner. A leak there will affect the air flow and somewhat defeat the purpose of the Ram Air intakes.

NPD list them from original tooling and manufacturer.

Geoff.

 

Marc, sent you an email regards hood clearance. I know someone with a J code, we can measure his intake height.

 

I have a complete kit with repro twist locks

 

HLKIT71-73_TN.JPG

Item #71HDLCKSET/R

71-73 HOOD LOCK KIT, COMPLETE 32 PIECES

***SPECIAL FREE SHIPPING ON THIS KIT***

Price: $249.94

92x16http://www.ohiomustang.com/store/images/addtocart.gif[/img]

 

 

 

 

Only one set of OE locks left 

 

SADLY >>> READ BELOW  

 

Due to slow sales of USA made OE tooling parts  VS China made parts... Daniel Carpenter quit making these in  OE tooling :@

70 twist looks

71-3 twist locks

There are other 73 parts he gave up on too

 

Seems price wins out :chin:

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Thanks for all the responses on this guys - I think I am now leaning more towards adding them over omitting.  So, next question, who makes the best kits and are there instructions for how and where to put the holes?

 

Marc

 

 Good decision Marc! There is no doubt in my mind that the locks do have function. a, to hold the hood corners and b, to maintain the all important seal between the hood plenum and the air cleaner. A leak there will affect the air flow and somewhat defeat the purpose of the Ram Air intakes.

NPD list them from original tooling and manufacturer.

Geoff.

 

Marc, sent you an email regards hood clearance. I know someone with a J code, we can measure his intake height.

 

 

OK - sounds good - I appreciate that.  Car went to paint today, so, when it comes back and we get the engine back in, we can have a look.  Back to the hood locks...took a close look under hood and saw that the cut outs on the inner side of the hood are no where near the rad support - they're about 8" or so forward of it. Was there a bracket or something that comes off the rad support and picks up the hood locks?  Or, am I mistaken in assuming that where the cutouts are on the hood inner is where the locks are supposed to go?

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Yes, hold down brackets are required. They come up for sale once in a while on the various auction sites and i believe are being reproduced and sold aftermarket. Touch base with Don at Ohio Mustangs on this site, he will let you know what is available from his end.

 

71-Vert-Finished-Pics2.jpg

"Yes dear", has kept me in the hobby a long time...

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Yes, hold down brackets are required. They come up for sale once in a while on the various auction sites and i believe are being reproduced and sold aftermarket. Touch base with Don at Ohio Mustangs on this site, he will let you know what is available from his end.

 

71-Vert-Finished-Pics2.jpg

 

As you are into originality and me being busy restoring with 71 CJ front parts atm. Got few small questions:

 

1/ What kind of finish is on the twist locks brackets? Looks like yellowish vs the grey central latch mechanism. From what I saw beneath a layer of paint sprayed on original untouched parts, they had the same finish from factory. Were these offered in different finishes? Love the look of the locks brackets, very nice.

 

2/ Your hood latch mechanism seams to have the same color as the back of the grille. My grille also untouched in its juice has a more silver finish.

Did you spray both latch mechanism and grille in same color?

 

3/ I see your grille has 2 brackets, mine has only one, but its having as you see on pict bellow, an angle, likely to reduce parts costs. 1 vs 2 always won in Ford's mind.

Not that I really care, just curious about the production date of your car. Very early 71?

 

4/ final question, as I know you do factory restoration and me busy trying to restore/replate my bolts, I see the hood latch mechanism bolts are of the same alloy with zinc (with yellow passivation) as your fenders bolts. The original bolts on mine for the latch, are of the same alloy and grade as for instance the tower braces bolts, they have a white finish, not zinc. I wonder if there were different hardware used there.

 

Very nice restoration btw!

 

 

bracketgrille.jpg

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Thanks for all the responses on this guys - I think I am now leaning more towards adding them over omitting.  So, next question, who makes the best kits and are there instructions for how and where to put the holes?

 

Marc

 

 Good decision Marc! There is no doubt in my mind that the locks do have function. a, to hold the hood corners and b, to maintain the all important seal between the hood plenum and the air cleaner. A leak there will affect the air flow and somewhat defeat the purpose of the Ram Air intakes.

NPD list them from original tooling and manufacturer.

Geoff.

 

Marc, sent you an email regards hood clearance. I know someone with a J code, we can measure his intake height.

 

 

OK - sounds good - I appreciate that.  Car went to paint today, so, when it comes back and we get the engine back in, we can have a look.  Back to the hood locks...took a close look under hood and saw that the cut outs on the inner side of the hood are no where near the rad support - they're about 8" or so forward of it. Was there a bracket or something that comes off the rad support and picks up the hood locks?  Or, am I mistaken in assuming that where the cutouts are on the hood inner is where the locks are supposed to go?

 

 Marc, SOOOO glad you finally got your car to paint. It's been a long process finding the right guy, so I really hope it turns outs as you want.

 When you get closer to detailing, let me know if you require any other info re black-outs etc. I think by now we all have that detail figured out!

 As for hood clearance, I'll need to give my friend a call to arrange day and time.

On the hood locks, I'd buy the original tooling parts kit that Don offered. Are you replacing the entire hood that already has the holes or are you going to have them cut in?

 Geoff.

 Geoff.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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