Jump to content
Grandmas73

Quickjack lifting points

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I'm looking at the two piece lift from Quickjack or Bendpac (same I think).

When ordering you can spec solid lift blocks that I could use at the torque boxes or slotted blocks to be used on the rocker pinch weld.  Given the choice, what's the preferred lifting point? 

BTW This is for a 73 vert, I always lift with doors closed and top up. Stiff as I can keep her.

 

I'm leaning towards solid blocks on the torque boxes but I would like some experienced thoughts on this. 

 

Thanks


Bryan~

 

My Garage....

 

73 Mustang Convertible- Grandma's

61 Studebaker Hawk- Grandpa's

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a suggestion. I put in a lift about two years ago and was going to go with a two post. Decided against it and went with a 4 post drive on with a trolley jack. It wasn't that much more money than the two post and is far more versatile. If I need all four tires off ground at the same time I use the trolley jack to lift the back end then put the axel on jack stands on the jack plate that was included then move the trolley jack to the front. Plus if your doing work on the car like exhaust, trans, etc where you don't need the wheels off the ground it is far more stable and less stress on the car.

  • Like 1

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ford says torque boxes with the upper control arms blocked. 

I talked with many local shops before I ordered a lift. They said if to just change oil a 4 post or a pit like most oil change shops have. If you were going to work on the car a 2 post was much better. If you go to the Ford dealers you will see very few 4 post. My son works in BMW and they use only 2 posts. Saleen uses 2 post. Why jack a car up 6 feet to jack a car up 6" on a 4 post? I am all for the easiest way. 

We changed out clutch in my sons 2018 GT mustang saturday. Would been impossible on a 4 post. You have to remove the exhaust to the rear in one piece. Nothing in the way on 2 post but impossible on 4 post. Each has it's place if you are just changing oil 4 post if you are working on cars 2 post. Ask any local repair shop which is more versatile. 

BTW I was going to do sort of an experiment on my 73 vert with lift. I was going to pull a string and see what the deflection was using the rockers and the torque boxes. I know if you open the doors when on lift you will not shut and that is a pretty much rust free California car. 

Not everyone has room or height for a 2 or 4 post lift but something is much better than nothing.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ford says torque boxes with the upper control arms blocked. 

I talked with many local shops before I ordered a lift. They said if to just change oil a 4 post or a pit like most oil change shops have. If you were going to work on the car a 2 post was much better. If you go to the Ford dealers you will see very few 4 post. My son works in BMW and they use only 2 posts. Saleen uses 2 post. Why jack a car up 6 feet to jack a car up 6" on a 4 post? I am all for the easiest way. 

We changed out clutch in my sons 2018 GT mustang saturday. Would been impossible on a 4 post. You have to remove the exhaust to the rear in one piece. Nothing in the way on 2 post but impossible on 4 post. Each has it's place if you are just changing oil 4 post if you are working on cars 2 post. Ask any local repair shop which is more versatile. 

BTW I was going to do sort of an experiment on my 73 vert with lift. I was going to pull a string and see what the deflection was using the rockers and the torque boxes. I know if you open the doors when on lift you will not shut and that is a pretty much rust free California car. 

Not everyone has room or height for a 2 or 4 post lift but something is much better than nothing.

While I'm not that familiar with the exhaust on the 2018 mustang, I'm not sure how it would be impossible to remove it on 4 post. I have pulled mine in one piece from headers back with no problem at all. dual exhaust with H pipe.


73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am sure I could never change your opinion. But I would suggest to any considering a lift go to several repair shops and ask the owner if they had one lift they could have would it be a 2 post or a 4 post and that will give you the answer. I did. I doubt you will have anyone say 4 post. That is more of a storage type lift which has it's place. I am considering getting one just for storage not a work lift.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am sure I could never change your opinion. But I would suggest to any considering a lift go to several repair shops and ask the owner if they had one lift they could have would it be a 2 post or a 4 post and that will give you the answer. I did. I doubt you will have anyone say 4 post. That is more of a storage type lift which has it's place. I am considering getting one just for storage not a work lift.

No you're probably not going to change my opinion, nor am I trying to change yours. I asked a question about why you stated it was "impossible" to remove the exhaust on a 4 post when I have done it several times with ease. If the two post works best for you great. The 4 post set up I have works best for me.


73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've worked on 4 post, 2 post, single post and scissor style undercar lifts. If I could have only one lift, it would be a 10k lb 2 post.

 

4 post are very claustrophobic and at 6'3", a total PITA to work under.

 

Single post are mostly useless and not something one would have in a home shop

 

Scissor lifts are nice if you have nothing else, but the lift height is not great and undercar access is minimal.

 

2 post is typically what you'll find in garages today, and with a set of post jacks, extremely safe.

 

If you're bucks down, a set of home made cribbing blocks is hard to beat, even better than jackstands.


[button=https://www.7173mustangs.com/forumdisplay.php?fid=41&filterxt_uid=34]Visit My Garage[/button]

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thing with the Quickjack, which I looked at and rejected, is that I couldn't see that you could line the lift up in line with the body as the front and rear jacking points are not parallel together as the front is more inboard than the rear. As the Quickjack tilts backwards when lifting this means that the lifts on each side of the car are going in opposite directions as the car lifts which I didn't think would work. If you could place them parallel front and back then yes sure they would. I ended up going with a pair of these (so four individual lifts working as 2 pairs front and back) as they lift vertically.

lift-cr06xhd-cj-auto.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am sure I could never change your opinion. But I would suggest to any considering a lift go to several repair shops and ask the owner if they had one lift they could have would it be a 2 post or a 4 post and that will give you the answer. I did. I doubt you will have anyone say 4 post. That is more of a storage type lift which has it's place. I am considering getting one just for storage not a work lift.

No you're probably not going to change my opinion, nor am I trying to change yours. I asked a question about why you stated it was "impossible" to remove the exhaust on a 4 post when I have done it several times with ease. If the two post works best for you great. The 4 post set up I have works best for me.

 

I agree - I don't get the statement that four post lifts are only good for oil changes... I've had 2 four-post lifts between my last two houses, and like 73Pony, I use the jack trays and jack trolley. I have used them to do engine work, suspension changes/upgrades, steering upgrades, transmission swaps, exhaust work and brake changes/upgrades on both my 71 Mustang and 79 Corvette, plus an engine swap on a 2002 Acura. never had an issue with working around the 4 posts, especially with the trays.

 

Oh yeah, I also do oil changes too. Including my wife's Accord Hybrid and my crew-cab Silverado. But to say that's all a four post is good for is just plain silly.

 

Here is my Mustang right after purchase - went straight to my "useless" four post lift...

 

IMG-0497.jpg

 

 

And this statement - "I know if you open the doors when on lift you will not shut and that is a pretty much rust free California car. " Also not true for  a solid car from my experience. I had the Mustang in a trans shop recently to deal with a leak I couldn't find - the owner put her on a 2-post lift. He was starting to raise it when I realized I needed to get something out of my glove box, and I was able to easily open/close the door while up in the air about 2-3 feet.

  • Like 1

1971 Mach 1

351C/FMX, trick flow  heads

Lunati retro roller conversion ("stockish" specs with high lift).

Classic Auto AC

Manual Front Disc conversion

620 lb front and 5-leaf HD rear springs w/Gas-adjust shocks

 

IMG-2977.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quite simply, I don’t trust the quick jack construction over the long term. When I restored my J Code Vert I purchased a Babco scissor lift. Very well built and worked great for the restoration. I even managed to install the dual exhaust while on this ( would not recommend though...). This past winter I purchased a 3500kg (7000 lb) 4-post strictly to store a car on. Not to say I won’t use it to work under from time to time, but, my ceiling height restricts me from raising a car to the highest point. I would raise it enough to lay under if needed. In most cases, I would use the scissor hoist for repair work. I don’t trust 2-post lifts...


"Yes dear", has kept me in the hobby a long time...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In my previous house/garage, I could not raise my car all the way - I could get the vette maybe 5 feet off the ground maximum. The lift was still a worthwhile investment and I used a small chair with rollers to sit in while working underneath. it was actually a pretty convenient and comfortable way to work.

  • Like 1

1971 Mach 1

351C/FMX, trick flow  heads

Lunati retro roller conversion ("stockish" specs with high lift).

Classic Auto AC

Manual Front Disc conversion

620 lb front and 5-leaf HD rear springs w/Gas-adjust shocks

 

IMG-2977.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In my previous house/garage, I could not raise my car all the way - I could get the vette maybe 5 feet off the ground maximum. The lift was still a worthwhile investment and I used a small chair with rollers to sit in while working underneath. it was actually a pretty convenient and comfortable way to work.

Yeah I have 14' eve height in the shop and went with the extended height lift so all kinds of room. I can lift the car high enough I can't reach it and I'm 6'2".


73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In my previous house/garage, I could not raise my car all the way - I could get the vette maybe 5 feet off the ground maximum. The lift was still a worthwhile investment and I used a small chair with rollers to sit in while working underneath. it was actually a pretty convenient and comfortable way to work.

 

I can lift mine no more then 56” off the ground... I will also look at a rolling chair Setup when the time comes. When there’s the will, there is a way...

  • Like 1

"Yes dear", has kept me in the hobby a long time...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why the need to remove the entire exhaust system simply for a clutch job?  If it's a performance thing, that's a perfect opportunity to upgrade the exhaust while swapping in a hot clutch, so why take such care in removing the entire exhaust in 1-piece?  If not, and the exhaust needs to stay intact, simply dismantle the hangers and drop the exhaust far enough to wiggle the transmission free and handle the clutch replacement... or drop the rear axle and pull it out that way (for as much work as it's being made to sound like)... all of which is still quite doable on a 4-post drive-on lift, BTW.

 

Sometimes it's a lot easier/faster to unhook the hangers vs removing the bolts. Four bolts at the manifolds, o2 sensor wires, pop the hangers and it's on the ground, out of the way.


[button=https://www.7173mustangs.com/forumdisplay.php?fid=41&filterxt_uid=34]Visit My Garage[/button]

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why the need to remove the entire exhaust system simply for a clutch job?  If it's a performance thing, that's a perfect opportunity to upgrade the exhaust while swapping in a hot clutch, so why take such care in removing the entire exhaust in 1-piece?  If not, and the exhaust needs to stay intact, simply dismantle the hangers and drop the exhaust far enough to wiggle the transmission free and handle the clutch replacement... or drop the rear axle and pull it out that way (for as much work as it's being made to sound like)... all of which is still quite doable on a 4-post drive-on lift, BTW.

 

Sometimes it's a lot easier/faster to unhook the hangers vs removing the bolts. Four bolts at the manifolds, o2 sensor wires, pop the hangers and it's on the ground, out of the way.

 

Understand and agree, but 'removing the exhaust to the rear, and all as one piece' said to me, "up and over the axle" as well.  That's not so easily done all as one piece no matter what kind of lift is used. ;)

 

Again, I'm no expert on this matter - just trying to picture it all.  But, a quick Google image search shows that with IRS, the exhaust passes under the rear-end assembly, so not so much the case of having to wiggle it out from above the rear axle like with the solid axle cars (I hadn't taken the IRS into account).  I'm trackin' now -  still completely doable on a 4-post lift, though.  ;)  :cool:

  • Like 1

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, step away for two months and we got quite the two post vs four post debate going on here:whistling::biggrin:

I don't have the height nor will I, and that's why I'm looking at the Quickjack like in the brochure I added.  They seem to want to use grooved rubber blocks on the pinch weld along the rockers, or I could use blocks at the torque boxes as has been suggested by some(probably the way I'll go).

Thanks for the many replies.

IMG_E1009[1].JPG


Bryan~

 

My Garage....

 

73 Mustang Convertible- Grandma's

61 Studebaker Hawk- Grandpa's

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/2/2020 at 4:39 PM, Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs said:

Ford says torque boxes with the upper control arms blocked. 

I talked with many local shops before I ordered a lift. They said if to just change oil a 4 post or a pit like most oil change shops have. If you were going to work on the car a 2 post was much better. If you go to the Ford dealers you will see very few 4 post. My son works in BMW and they use only 2 posts. Saleen uses 2 post. Why jack a car up 6 feet to jack a car up 6" on a 4 post? I am all for the easiest way. 

We changed out clutch in my sons 2018 GT mustang saturday. Would been impossible on a 4 post. You have to remove the exhaust to the rear in one piece. Nothing in the way on 2 post but impossible on 4 post. Each has it's place if you are just changing oil 4 post if you are working on cars 2 post. Ask any local repair shop which is more versatile. 

BTW I was going to do sort of an experiment on my 73 vert with lift. I was going to pull a string and see what the deflection was using the rockers and the torque boxes. I know if you open the doors when on lift you will not shut and that is a pretty much rust free California car. 

Not everyone has room or height for a 2 or 4 post lift but something is much better than nothing.

Are those blocks, put between the control arm and the frame to prevent full extension when hanging free? Similar to this (found at Autorestomod.com)

IMG_1011.jpg


Bryan~

 

My Garage....

 

73 Mustang Convertible- Grandma's

61 Studebaker Hawk- Grandpa's

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lifts! Lifts! Lifts!  How about a set of ramps for the front and jack stands for the rear.  Worked for me for over 3 years.  Of course I fell asleep a lot while I was laying under the car. :lollerz:


Kilgon

 

 

"The only dumb question is the one not asked"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you ever get one you will wonder how you did without. If i am working under the dash I lift car up to waist high and I stand on the floor to work. When wiping car down I put on lift so I do not have to torture my crushed disc in my back. 

I just use blocks of wood between the frame rail and the upper control arms. I forget to take them out and drive down road and they come bouncing out, lol. I was at an estate sale and 2 post lift sold for hundreds of dollars daughter said her dad had used 6 or 7 times was brand new. 

When I took my Mach 1 apart to clean and detail it was on the lift pretty much all the time for 10 weeks. I am tall and bending over the fender to work on engine kills my bad back so I lift to best position. I could never have done it without the lift for sure.  Put less money in your car more in garage, lol. 


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just as information, I have changed several clutches using my 4 post lift including 2016 and 2017 Mustang GTs. Also removed OEM exhaust on the same GTs on the 4 post lift. I have scissors lift for suspension, brakes, and body work. Chuck

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How in the world did you get the exhaust off? We took off in one piece from front to bumper. 

 


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

About Us

7173Mustangs.com is a community forum designed especially for fans and owners of the 1971, 1972 and 1973 Ford Mustang! We are not affiliated with Ford Motor Company in any way.

Site Navigation

Forums
Gallery
7173 Wiki
Blogs
Clubs

7173logo_small.png

Site Info

Founded:
July 2010

By:
Webfinity Design

From:
Latrobe, PA

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help customize your user experience here on 7173Mustangs.com. You can adjust your cookie settings to your preferences if you like, otherwise we'll assume that you're okay to continue.