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Header gasket recommendations


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So I'm 99.9% sure I found the cause of my rich condition with my Sniper efi. So I need a good header gasket. Suggestions and install tips because apparently I didn't do it correctly.

20210411_161750.jpg

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I  use Mr Gasket aluminum. They compress making it easy to get any leaks causes by a wrapped flange.  They hold up well and do a  great job of sealing.

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Kilgon

 

 

"The only dumb question is the one not asked"

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5 minutes ago, Kilgon said:

I  use Mr Gasket aluminum. They compress making it easy to get any leaks causes by a wrapped flange.  They hold up well and do a  great job of sealing.

When ordering its nothing special right? Just simply gasket for 351C with the oc heads right?

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You order them according to the port size, both 2V and 4V can have open chambers.

You can see here why port size is important:

351C 2V - 4V Manifold Gasket Comparison - Engine, Transmission, Drive Line, Etc - 7173Mustangs.com

Edited by Don C
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“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Also, my builder suggested NGK UR6 spark plugs. It's a 408c, mild cam and stock iron heads. While he's a great engine builder he's not a Ford guy. Do this plugs sound optimal?

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I use the Hooker gaskets that work with the headers.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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1 hour ago, Bill73Ragtop said:

I would recommend Remflex header gaskets   http://catalog.remflex.com/category_s/99.htm

Best to call them to get best gasket for your setup.  I use them with my Hedman shorties on my 302 with the Holley EFI.

I used the Remflex too on my 1970 F250 with a 360 FE. Expensive but worth it! But be careful - they broke easily if you bend them by accident. Don't ask how I know... I used them on the original heads and the original exhaust manifolds I overhauled. I cleaned and flattened the gasket sides of the manifolds and I was not sure about if they are totally flat although they seemed so. Therefore I used the Remflex gaskets and all leaks were gone. 

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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I've had good luck with both cometic's gaskets and the copper crush style others have mentioned. If there's anything to avoid, I'd say it's the cheaper gaskets that have the fiber material embedded. They will seal fine the first time, but have a tendency to get brittle and leave material stuck to the heads/header when you take them off.

Plain Jane | 1971 F Code Coupe 302/C4 Automatic

Goin' to Town Rig | 1971 F100 Ranger XLT LWB 390FE/C6 Automatic

Commuter | 2018 Tesla Model 3 Midrange RWD

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Posted (edited)

I see the torque spec on the Remflex is 20ftlbs. Is there a specific sequence to tighten these in? Looks like the Remflex 3007's are the correct ones for 351c 4v

Edited by 73' mach 1

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Put a THIN coat of the RTV of your choice on both sides of the gasket and tighten from the middle to each end. Let the RTV completely cure, about 24 hours. It will seal and will not burn out. If it is completely cured it will not harm the oxygen sensor. Chuck

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Another problem with the cheap fiber center gaskets is that the fasteners never stay tight, the gaskets are always expanding, shrinking, compressing.

There's nothing wrong with NGK plugs, but I would probably start with UR4s, run it for a while and then pull a couple and see how they look.

I'm probably going with the E3 plugs (E3.42), now that Bosch stopped making their Plus4 plugs. I like the multiple fire points on the plugs, less chance of getting shrouded. And there's a reason that aircraft reciprocating engines have multiple ground electrodes.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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On 4/11/2021 at 5:35 PM, 73' mach 1 said:

Also, my builder suggested NGK UR6 spark plugs. It's a 408c, mild cam and stock iron heads. While he's a great engine builder he's not a Ford guy. Do this plugs sound optimal?

I was recommended NGK R5673-7  for my 408. I will be giving the R5673-6 a chance since I think they could be a little hotter.

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20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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16 hours ago, Don C said:

Another problem with the cheap fiber center gaskets is that the fasteners never stay tight, the gaskets are always expanding, shrinking, compressing.

There's nothing wrong with NGK plugs, but I would probably start with UR4s, run it for a while and then pull a couple and see how they look.

I'm probably going with the E3 plugs (E3.42), now that Bosch stopped making their Plus4 plugs. I like the multiple fire points on the plugs, less chance of getting shrouded. And there's a reason that aircraft reciprocating engines have multiple ground electrodes.

I'll have to look into those. 

www.puregemdetailing.com

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I have had excellent results with the simple white fiber gaskets that Hooker headers sold in the past. I used a bead of Ultra Copper around each port, let it set up for 15 mins or so, and then install. Retorque the bolts after the first heat cycle and I'd be good to go for years. The most recent set of Hookers I bought now come with a metal core grey fiber faced gasket that blew out on one port in a few minutes on the dyno. I may or may not try a them in the car with the UltraCopper bead when I drop in the 351C. 

As an aside, the exhaust on my 71 was installed in 2003 and I haven't touched it since. No gasket changes, no retorque of the bolts, nothing. I recently removed the pipes and mufflers, and the collector gaskets looked great. Again, simple white fiber parts. I hung the exhaust so there was maybe 3/4" of movement at the tip and these lasted 18 years without signs of failure. I'll post a pic of the header gasket when I get them off later this week.  The point here is it's often less about the material and more about the technique used. 

 

 

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22 hours ago, 73' mach 1 said:

I see the torque spec on the Remflex is 20ftlbs. Is there a specific sequence to tighten these in? Looks like the Remflex 3007's are the correct ones for 351c 4v

I typically start in the middle and work my way out - alternating right and left - to the ends.  Start snug, then torque.

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17 minutes ago, Bill73Ragtop said:

I typically start in the middle and work my way out - alternating right and left - to the ends.  Start snug, then torque.

Will do. Should have them Friday. 

www.puregemdetailing.com

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