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What did you do to your car today?


droptop73
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Went to the Auto Hobby Shop, changed the oil, and cleaned the tires.  There was a lot of built-up tire dressing - after most of a big bottle of Bleech White, the tire dressing's gone, but the faded white letters on the fronts still persist.  I might just have to get a [white] tire pen and paint 'em.  Rears still look great.

 

4x4, try scrubbing the white letters with water and a SOS pad, that should do pretty good. I have cleaned yellowed white walls on show cars with lacquer thinner on a rag, really gets 'em white, however, you must be carefull when using lacquer thinner not to drag the cloth across any of the black part of the tire or it will drag some black onto the white and streak it. Old cotton "T" shirts work good here for wiping with lacquer thinner.

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Started to remove old paint from the quarters and roof. Used my polishing machine with a 40 grit disc for the main areas and works well with low speed to prevent any warping.

Found a few paint layers even some original bright red still on the roof.

Also made a $15 sandblasting gun thanks to Youtube, using a soda bottle and an air gun.

Works well enough for small projects

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Well, I've been eyeballing that Pertronix Ignitor III unit for months now. It is advertised as having more available spark energy than the regular original Pertronix, or the following Pertronix II, supplies a multiple spark like an MSD, and has a programmable rev limiter.....all fitting inside the factory distributor.

I've been running the original Pertronix Ignitor for something like 20 years now, no problems, so I had to try out the new unit. They recommend purchasing the Ignitor III coil to go with the module, so I did. I had long ago installed the Pertronix relay kit to give the ignition a full 12 volt operating voltage so I was set.

The new III module just bolts right in, the magnet wheel that was slipped over the breaker cam for the original unit is not used, the III triggers off of the breaker cam itself....pretty simple. The Rev limiter is pre-set at 5500 from the manufacturer when you get it. I left it alone. Being a stock 351c, a higher redline isn't reasonable, and I'll likely not even rev to 5000 in normal driving, so instead of re-setting the rev limiter lower, I left it alone.

I re-installed the distributor to the engine in the same position marked when removed, installed the coil, attached the wires, turned the key, she lit immeadiately and idled nicely. ( It did before too ). Its just nice to know some manufacturers stuff actually works as advertised. I'm getting slightly better gas mileage, and acceleration is noticeably snappier. I'd say I'm happy with the addition.

Just to fine tune the car now, I think I'll open my plug gaps and adjust my total advance ( which is a bit high ), looking to run 10 initial, 34 total when all is said and done.

Just a cautionary note: the Ignitor III is incompatible with the Ford tach and even Petronix says that they can't do anything about it.

Let me check your shorts!

http://midlifeharness.com

cactus.jpg.92e5d9d8700abc0ed60c8ccb3426248e.jpg

 

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Well, I've been eyeballing that Pertronix Ignitor III unit for months now. It is advertised as having more available spark energy than the regular original Pertronix, or the following Pertronix II, supplies a multiple spark like an MSD, and has a programmable rev limiter.....all fitting inside the factory distributor.

I've been running the original Pertronix Ignitor for something like 20 years now, no problems, so I had to try out the new unit. They recommend purchasing the Ignitor III coil to go with the module, so I did. I had long ago installed the Pertronix relay kit to give the ignition a full 12 volt operating voltage so I was set.

The new III module just bolts right in, the magnet wheel that was slipped over the breaker cam for the original unit is not used, the III triggers off of the breaker cam itself....pretty simple. The Rev limiter is pre-set at 5500 from the manufacturer when you get it. I left it alone. Being a stock 351c, a higher redline isn't reasonable, and I'll likely not even rev to 5000 in normal driving, so instead of re-setting the rev limiter lower, I left it alone.

I re-installed the distributor to the engine in the same position marked when removed, installed the coil, attached the wires, turned the key, she lit immeadiately and idled nicely. ( It did before too ). Its just nice to know some manufacturers stuff actually works as advertised. I'm getting slightly better gas mileage, and acceleration is noticeably snappier. I'd say I'm happy with the addition.

Just to fine tune the car now, I think I'll open my plug gaps and adjust my total advance ( which is a bit high ), looking to run 10 initial, 34 total when all is said and done.

Just a cautionary note: the Ignitor III is incompatible with the Ford tach and even Petronix says that they can't do anything about it.

It's been two weeks now, and I drive it to work every day.....no issues, Factory tach and all. Just to follow up, I'll call Pertronix this week and ask about any incompatability issues to address.

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Well, I've been eyeballing that Pertronix Ignitor III unit for months now. It is advertised as having more available spark energy than the regular original Pertronix, or the following Pertronix II, supplies a multiple spark like an MSD, and has a programmable rev limiter.....all fitting inside the factory distributor.

I've been running the original Pertronix Ignitor for something like 20 years now, no problems, so I had to try out the new unit. They recommend purchasing the Ignitor III coil to go with the module, so I did. I had long ago installed the Pertronix relay kit to give the ignition a full 12 volt operating voltage so I was set.

The new III module just bolts right in, the magnet wheel that was slipped over the breaker cam for the original unit is not used, the III triggers off of the breaker cam itself....pretty simple. The Rev limiter is pre-set at 5500 from the manufacturer when you get it. I left it alone. Being a stock 351c, a higher redline isn't reasonable, and I'll likely not even rev to 5000 in normal driving, so instead of re-setting the rev limiter lower, I left it alone.

I re-installed the distributor to the engine in the same position marked when removed, installed the coil, attached the wires, turned the key, she lit immeadiately and idled nicely. ( It did before too ). Its just nice to know some manufacturers stuff actually works as advertised. I'm getting slightly better gas mileage, and acceleration is noticeably snappier. I'd say I'm happy with the addition.

Just to fine tune the car now, I think I'll open my plug gaps and adjust my total advance ( which is a bit high ), looking to run 10 initial, 34 total when all is said and done.

Just a heads up. I am not the only one who had issues with the P III after a while. Mine was in for about 6-8 months before I started getting erratic performance and found that the timing would vary by about 2-3 degrees, jumping back and forth. I don't put a lot of miles on my car but there was not a lot of play in the P III unit so I swapped it our for an HEI style distributor and would never go back. I hope you have better luck than myself and others have had.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Went to the Auto Hobby Shop, changed the oil, and cleaned the tires.  There was a lot of built-up tire dressing - after most of a big bottle of Bleech White, the tire dressing's gone, but the faded white letters on the fronts still persist.  I might just have to get a [white] tire pen and paint 'em.  Rears still look great.

 

4x4, try scrubbing the white letters with water and a SOS pad, that should do pretty good. I have cleaned yellowed white walls on show cars with lacquer thinner on a rag, really gets 'em white, however, you must be carefull when using lacquer thinner not to drag the cloth across any of the black part of the tire or it will drag some black onto the white and streak it. Old cotton "T" shirts work good here for wiping with lacquer thinner.

 

I'll give that a shot, thanks!   ::thumb::

 

The Bleech-White got it better than it's been in awhile, but gave up short of getting them completely white (they kind of fade from white to dry dirt color the further toward the outside of the tire).  I also tried some Simple Green and Purple Power using some metal detail brushes to scrub them - nothing.  I've also tried a Mr. Clean "Eraser" scrubby-pad and also used some thinner, with no results.  

 

Yesterday, I also actually tried dabbing a little bit of the White Shoe Polish onto a few of the letters, and quickly decided that was going to be a mistake.

 

If the SOS pad doesn't get it, I have some Acid Wheel Cleaner that took care of some hard water spots on my Honda's windows years ago.  Something's gotta work - I hate black-wall tires.

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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Well, I've been eyeballing that Pertronix Ignitor III unit for months now. It is advertised as having more available spark energy than the regular original Pertronix, or the following Pertronix II, supplies a multiple spark like an MSD, and has a programmable rev limiter.....all fitting inside the factory distributor.

I've been running the original Pertronix Ignitor for something like 20 years now, no problems, so I had to try out the new unit. They recommend purchasing the Ignitor III coil to go with the module, so I did. I had long ago installed the Pertronix relay kit to give the ignition a full 12 volt operating voltage so I was set.

The new III module just bolts right in, the magnet wheel that was slipped over the breaker cam for the original unit is not used, the III triggers off of the breaker cam itself....pretty simple. The Rev limiter is pre-set at 5500 from the manufacturer when you get it. I left it alone. Being a stock 351c, a higher redline isn't reasonable, and I'll likely not even rev to 5000 in normal driving, so instead of re-setting the rev limiter lower, I left it alone.

I re-installed the distributor to the engine in the same position marked when removed, installed the coil, attached the wires, turned the key, she lit immeadiately and idled nicely. ( It did before too ). Its just nice to know some manufacturers stuff actually works as advertised. I'm getting slightly better gas mileage, and acceleration is noticeably snappier. I'd say I'm happy with the addition.

Just to fine tune the car now, I think I'll open my plug gaps and adjust my total advance ( which is a bit high ), looking to run 10 initial, 34 total when all is said and done.

Just a cautionary note: the Ignitor III is incompatible with the Ford tach and even Petronix says that they can't do anything about it.

It's been two weeks now, and I drive it to work every day.....no issues, Factory tach and all. Just to follow up, I'll call Pertronix this week and ask about any incompatability issues to address.

  I called the Pertronix tech line this morning early, ( 909 ) 547-9058, and talked with a representative, relayed the info that another Mustang owner had said that the unit was not compatable with the Ford tach. I was told that the Pertronix III IS compatable with, in his words, 95% of the applications they are use for. His explanation was that some aftermarket Tachs, and capacitive discharge ignitions won't work right with the Pertronix III unit, but that Pertronix also had a "diode kit" that will correct the tach problem. I told him that I had purchased the retro-fit III unit for my OEM distributor, along with their relay kit, and their Flamethrower III coil, and that I have a factory tach...he assured me that I'm good. I'm not going to worry about it, BUT, should the situation change, you can be sure I'll post up!

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Well, after sitting for about 6 months and only getting started a few times i picked it up from storage at my mom's house and brought it back home. Power steering fluid leak but otherwise she ran fine. I added some fresh gas and will take it a bit easy on her until I run through the tank. Here in Arizona the weather is turning perfect for cruising the Mustang. I am going to go put more air in the tires and then take her for a bath!

 

It was fun to be back in the driver seat. I do love this car.

'Mike'

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

 

Pics of modifications included in: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-convertible--3335]My Garage[/button]

 

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Well, after sitting for about 6 months and only getting started a few times i picked it up from storage at my mom's house and brought it back home.   Power steering fluid leak but otherwise she ran fine.  I added some fresh gas and will take it a bit easy on her until I run through the tank.  Here in Arizona the weather is turning perfect for cruising the Mustang.   I am going to go put more air in the tires and then take her for a bath!

 

It was fun to be back in the driver seat.  I do love this car.

 

I’m jealous. Put mine in storage for the winter. Cryed a little as I closed and Locked the door. Sure had a hell of a good time getting there though. Runs crazy strong when it is 28 degrees.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Took containers full of coolant and trans oil to Midas for recycling. They took them without asking any questions or charging any fees. Great experience. Thank you Midas.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Well that was fun. I took the convertible, top down, on a regular route today only I varied it a bit and went down a different freeway. While driving along what do I see? A Yellow 1973 Mach 1 on a on ramp and it looks like it was in pretty good shape. I caught up to him and he was as happy to see me and I was to see him. We exchanged a few thumbs up, smiles and waves. I was kinda hoping he was going to take my freeway exit. I would have given him a card. It's a blast to be in the Mustang and see another one wandering around.

'Mike'

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

 

Pics of modifications included in: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-convertible--3335]My Garage[/button]

 

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  • 1 month later...

Dropped the engine in on Saturday, ran into some issues as expected (My Sachs clutch kit came with 2 wrong pilot bearings). It's in though, have a little bit more to do and it's like 20º now so I'm not really rushing to drive it. 

oKYUJkbl.jpg

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20171227.jpg

 

Took her on a 100 mls ride at zero degrees Celsius but dry and clean roads.

 

Cheers Frank

1972 Mach 1, 351C-2V, wimbledon white, blue all vinyl luxury

born in Dearborn, grown in the district of San José, spent a lifetime in California, moved to Germany in 2010

Mustang_Mach1_wallpaper_300_150.jpg proud member of clublogozusammen.JPG.59fb4a10d15cfff9ec756235059135b8.JPG

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pulled the brand new build of the engine out after finding aluminum filings from test turnovers..........................back to the machine shop to tear down and verify if its tearing up or cnc residue left from maching..........better safe and a little poorer than out 10 grand in an engine. :(

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's very cold over here, so done little things that were on the todo...

 

Just like Mr 4x4, I do not like the fake wood sticker on doors, and finally added the ponies I've ordered months ago to the doors.

Then cleaned up the bottom of the console ashtray that started show some corrosion. Will spray zinc it when tmp will rise again,

but as I do not want to smoke in the car anymore, cut some leather patch till I come to that zinc handling.

 

door_pony.jpg

 

Then moved on to the LEDS bulbs, I've installed 3 weeks back a fresh taillights harness (thx to midlife) and had ordered red LED's at same time.

4 red, 2 white. Meanwhile saw I needed some LED compatible flasher, as the babies do not drain enuff power to let the bimetal contact do the job.

So ordered one that support leds and incandescence bulbs in lights circuits. They all came this week.

Indeed once in, all works but not turn light. The swap is just old out, new in, and all works. Harness remains intact and original connector is back in bizz.

What a difference!

leds.jpg

 

And then installed these. I was so impressed at Ebstang's ones, I gotta have these too :) As Amazon doesn't have the payment methods I prefer and have on Ebay

I search for similar ones. Couldn't find the exact same ones. These were looking ok on picts and specs, so I ordered them thinking it would not be a big risk if they were crap. Expecting some very light cheap plastic units poorly finished. I could not have been more wrong, their finish is excellent and casing, bezel are in aluminum. The light they give is simply amazing. The install took 10 minutes, where 9 went into cleaning behind the old lights. No change on alignment, H4 connectors off, new in, done.

Strangely they are not to be photographed on or off with my IPhone. What you see here on pict is not how they look for real and the light they give is also not to be captured with this phone hardware. They look very bling-bling on the pict and are much less excessive in real. Tho, I will prolly paint the bezel black around them, waiting to see them outside first. Can't paint in this cold anyway. I'm also not sure I would pass the dutch tech control with these, but found no prohibition for these either on RDW site. All the law says is that you must not blind others.. They have a very clean and directed beam, so I'm not worrying. Plus, may they'd fail pass, I set the old ones back in 3 minutes, and put them back after the control. They offer so much more light than the old ones, no way i'm going back :) Also ordered a new set of lights relays, just to be sure, will install these as soon as they land.

blingbling.jpg

 

and then it was really too cold in garage...

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Hello all, I really liked the LED headlight posts and thought I'd do the upgrade to my car too.  These are the Amazon lights and appear to be good quality (time will tell).  While these lights did plug right into my factory harness, I did have to do some slight modification to them so that they would sit perfectly horizontal in the factory headlight "cup".  I only had to massage the protrusions on the backside of the lights so that I could "clock" them to be level.  Without doing so, they tilted upward slightly towards the center of the car.  I can't comment on the brightness because I haven't driven the car at night yet but they really look good IMO.

 

FYI: The car is a '71 coupe and I've installed the '73 grill (which I've always liked) and made my own "cobra" version.

 

 

LED1.jpg

 

 

LED5.jpg

1971 Coupe - 306ci (circa 1971) - 10:1/750 Holley/RPM Air Gap/Lunati camshaft (221/231@.050)/Comp roller rockerarms/Ford Racing pulleys/Ported cylinder heads/MSD ignition/Patriot Ceramic LT headers/Single Chambers/Carter fuel pump/NOS Sniper/9" diff./4.57 gears/B&M Holeshot convertor/B&M Shiftkit/B&M Z-Gate/CE subframe connectors/Jegs Sport Star rims/Lakewood traction bars/Fiberglass Ram Air hood/Electric fan/Rear seat delete/Relocated battery/Custom graphics

 

1972 Mach 1 - Ford 400ci/C6 trans/Quick Fuel 750 carb/Weiand Intake/Harland Sharp rockers/Performance cam/Patriot headers/CVF racing underdrive pulleys/Carter Fuel pump/Jegs Sport Star rims/4.11 gears/Spool/Traction bars/Accel distributor and ignition/Miloden 8-quart/Jones Full Boar exhaust/Hurst Pro-matic 2 shifter

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Tore down my seats to install new foam and TMI covers. I have done this with my car about 30 years ago and now I'm doing it again. Any TIPS and TRICKS to make it perfect, anyone? Or should I let a professional install it?

IMG_0951.thumb.JPG.3ecc9ba4e5fa81c4551a096b0e581c2e.JPG

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!

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Tore down my seats to install new foam and TMI covers. I have done this with my car about 30 years ago and now I'm doing it again. Any TIPS and TRICKS to make it perfect, anyone? Or should I let a professional install it?

 

It is not that bad of a job. The second seat will be a lot easier and faster. Here is a thread I started that may give you some tips. Are you going with the Sports or Sports-R?

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-tmi-sport-upholstery-question

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I'm going with the regular seat foam and covers and adding seat heaters to it. I think this time I will let an upholsterer do the job! The quality of seat covers has much improved since the last time I bought a full set.

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!

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Weather got semi warm enough to be able to work in the unheated garage. Bought the new billet pull awhile ago and it looked easy enough. :cool:

The new pull was threaded, so I figured that it would be just a matter of unscrewing the old and screwing on the new, 10 minutes max.

 

NOT!!

 

 

P1210003.jpg

 

So, it took a little muscle with vice grips to break loose the thread on the existing plastic one, or so I thought, then I unscrewed, and unscrewed, and unscrewed. It turns around and around but not  screwing off. :chin:

 

P1010002_1.jpg

 

So I get out the hacksaw blade and carefully saw it off. Of course it wouldn't unscrew because it was pressed on.  

P1210005.jpg

 

I was able to insert a 1/4-20 screw into the new pull, and I just happened to have the right size die laying around the shop , so I proceeded with plan B.

 

P1210007_1.jpg

P1210010_1.jpg

P1210013.jpg

 

I was going to loctite the new one on, but decided to install a jam nut instead.

P1210014.jpg

 

And TA DA

 

P1210017_1.jpg

 

Note to self: I never realized how badly those pedals need a coat of black paint. :whistling:

 

I already have the new knobs and should be installing them soon. :D

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

 

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;

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  • 3 weeks later...

It's very cold over here, so done little things that were on the todo...

 

Just like Mr 4x4, I do not like the fake wood sticker on doors, and finally added the ponies I've ordered months ago to the doors.

Then cleaned up the bottom of the console ashtray that started show some corrosion. Will spray zinc it when tmp will rise again,

but as I do not want to smoke in the car anymore, cut some leather patch till I come to that zinc handling.

 

door_pony.jpg

 

Then moved on to the LEDS bulbs, I've installed 3 weeks back a fresh taillights harness (thx to midlife) and had ordered red LED's at same time.

4 red, 2 white. Meanwhile saw I needed some LED compatible flasher, as the babies do not drain enuff power to let the bimetal contact do the job.

So ordered one that support leds and incandescence bulbs in lights circuits. They all came this week.

Indeed once in, all works but not turn light. The swap is just old out, new in, and all works. Harness remains intact and original connector is back in bizz.

What a difference!

leds.jpg

 

And then installed these. I was so impressed at Ebstang's ones, I gotta have these too :) As Amazon doesn't have the payment methods I prefer and have on Ebay

I search for similar ones. Couldn't find the exact same ones. These were looking ok on picts and specs, so  I ordered them thinking it would not be a big risk if they were crap. Expecting some very light cheap plastic units poorly finished. I could not have been more wrong, their finish is excellent and casing, bezel are in aluminum. The light they give is simply amazing. The install took 10 minutes, where 9 went into cleaning behind the old lights. No change on alignment, H4 connectors off, new in, done.

Strangely they are not to be photographed on or off with my IPhone. What you see here on pict is not how they look for real and the light they give is also not to be captured with this phone hardware. They look very bling-bling on the pict and are much less excessive in real. Tho, I will prolly paint the bezel black around them, waiting to see them outside first. Can't paint in this cold anyway. I'm also not sure I would pass the dutch tech control with these, but found no prohibition for these either on RDW site. All the law says is that you must not blind others.. They have a very clean and directed beam, so I'm not worrying. Plus, may they'd fail pass, I set the old ones back in 3 minutes, and put them back after the control. They offer so much more light than the old ones, no way i'm going back :) Also ordered a new set of lights relays, just to be sure, will install these as soon as they land.

blingbling.jpg

 

and then it was really too cold in garage...

 

 

You obviously have very good taste!   ::thumb::

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! ::thumb::

 

 

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