What did you do to your car today?

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

73vertproject

VIP Members
Joined
Aug 7, 2010
Messages
5,074
Reaction score
9
Location
McDermitt, NV
My Car
1973 Convertible H Code, 351C 2V FMX
I'm starting to seriously look at the pain in the neck it's going to be to remove all the junk attached to the engine, and especially all the electrical wiring attached to it all. Marking everything and taking a bunch of pictures will be necessary so I can hook it all back up again. Don't want to honk the horn and have the convertible top fold down while it's raining. :D

Doc
So..... don't honk the horn when it's raining? I don't know... seems like sound advice to me. ;) :D
Ya, thanks, Eric. And don't turn on the radio if I need to change lanes, and don't back up if it's getting cold inside. Etc, etc. :D I can see it now.... :dodgy:

Doc

 

72fastback

VIP Members
Joined
Jul 15, 2010
Messages
1,451
Reaction score
1
Location
gatineau,Quebec,Canada
My Car
72 mustang fastback,{mine} 74 Chevy Nova {girlfriends car}
2001 Sunfire that is falling apart haha.
I'm starting to seriously look at the pain in the neck it's going to be to remove all the junk attached to the engine, and especially all the electrical wiring attached to it all. Marking everything and taking a bunch of pictures will be necessary so I can hook it all back up again. Don't want to honk the horn and have the convertible top fold down while it's raining. :D

Doc
Digital camera, ziplock bags and a black marker are your best friends when doing an engine break down.I would of been completely lost if I didn't write on each bag what the bolts where for.Nothing worse than having a part in your hands and looking at a bin of nuts and bolts and going hhhhhhmmmmmmmmm

 

72HCODE

"My World is Fire and Blood"
Joined
Jul 4, 2010
Messages
3,091
Reaction score
54
Location
New York
My Car
71 Mach 1.
you know the harness really isn't that bad as far as accidentally plugging something where is doesn't fit.

the engine harness that goes over the manifold is very simple even with gauges, its maybe 5 connections and the harness really only reaches the areas it needs to.

it would be impossible to connect the water temp to the oil sender they are on opposite sides of the engine and the wires are so short :)

the top harness is really all that needs to come off to get the engine out.

behind the top of the engine (if you have an automatic) will be 2 connectors, one is the top harness the other is the neutral safety switch for the transmission

if you follow the top harness forward you will have the oil sender connector first(it sits on the back of the block behind the manifold)

next will be the idle up solenoid, or could be adapted to the electric choke if you have one, or could even be disconnected.

next comes the coil red/green wire, then the water temp sensor to the left of the alternator by the heater core hoses.

on the other side would be the alternator harness you have 2 connectors there and one bolted to the battery side of the starter solenoid, there are 3 wires that run to the back of the alternator but you can leave them on the alternator and just take it off as one piece. there is also a black wire with orange strip that connects to the the fender electrical isolator if your car is equipped with one.

just take the connector out of the voltage regulator and your pretty much home free.

take pictures and note the colors of the wires and they style of connectors used.

if your striping out the main engine electrical harness on the chassis that is also pretty easy to remember all the hook ups, its harder to get the plastic clips to come out and not break then anything else.

if you feel overwhelmed break up the job, take it step by step no rush. removing the shock tower re-enforcement plates opens up a whole world.

sometimes the air cleaner base vacuum lines are more confusing.

 

73vertproject

VIP Members
Joined
Aug 7, 2010
Messages
5,074
Reaction score
9
Location
McDermitt, NV
My Car
1973 Convertible H Code, 351C 2V FMX
Thanks, 72HCode! Not only did you get me ready for the engine removal, you helped solve about 8 problems I've had related to electrical issues and gauges. Much obliged! :)

Doc

 

Tnfastbk

VIP Members
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Sep 13, 2010
Messages
7,639
Reaction score
150
Well tonight worked on the March serpentine set up some more, finally talked with somebody at March, who actually was helpful, and found out they shipped me the wrong back bracket for the billet power steering pump. Imagine that. I told him that I had already started to sand on it trying to make it work.But on a happier note he said he would ship me the correct one out at "no charge". Then talked with him about the belt being to long and he said the instruction all have the belt part number for a system with air. He would correct that, but back for another belt for me. so not much progress tonight. Oh and on a side note my new Dizzy gear was wrong also.:mad:

 

72HCODE

"My World is Fire and Blood"
Joined
Jul 4, 2010
Messages
3,091
Reaction score
54
Location
New York
My Car
71 Mach 1.
pulled apart my passenger side door, about 4 months ago i got fed up with the fitment of the hinge on the passenger side it was outta wack for the last 5 years. i had rebuilt the hinges but still had a problem with the door not closing all the way 100%, so i man handled the door and managed to finally pop it into the correct position which threw off the lock and window adjustment.

so i fixed the lock asap, but the window never sat correctly.

today i finally got around to adjusting the window fitment, and also discovered my pop in place was still not 100% so a final twist of the door frame and upper hinge adjustment finally got the door into a great position. I spent 3 hours adjusting the glass and making some minor repairs. now the door adjustment is as good as its going to get and hopefully no more whistling noise on the highway, hopefully.

 

Tnfastbk

VIP Members
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Sep 13, 2010
Messages
7,639
Reaction score
150
Finally got all the old wiring harness removed.Steering column and The pedal assembly out and sandblasted. Interior Firewall is prepped for paint and new pad.

 

Mister 4x4

Too Big to Sneak
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
8,085
Reaction score
312
Location
San Angelo, Texas
My Car
1971 Mustang Mach 1
Oh crap - forgot to mention that I actually did do something yesterday.

I removed almost all of the engine peripherals, including the brake master cylinder, voltage regulator, export braces, evaporation canister bracket, and all of the remaining 'would-slice-me-open-if-only-they-had-a-chance' sheet metal screws. Next weekend, I'll get the windshield wiper motor, brake booster, throttle cable, and brake proportioning valve along with removing the engine bay's wiring harness. I'll have to leave the steering gearbox and front suspension in-place until I'm ready to tear it all apart... otherwise the car will be immovable where it sits - and we can't have that.

During the week, I'll be checking out a couple of cars at a local yard to see if their front clips are worthy. If so, then I'll be ordering some parts from Don to get the engine bay back in shape while the engine's at the machine shop.

 

73vertproject

VIP Members
Joined
Aug 7, 2010
Messages
5,074
Reaction score
9
Location
McDermitt, NV
My Car
1973 Convertible H Code, 351C 2V FMX
Oh crap - forgot to mention that I actually did do something yesterday.

I removed almost all of the engine peripherals, including the brake master cylinder, voltage regulator, export braces, evaporation canister bracket, and all of the remaining 'would-slice-me-open-if-only-they-had-a-chance' sheet metal screws. Next weekend, I'll get the windshield wiper motor, brake booster, throttle cable, and brake proportioning valve along with removing the engine bay's wiring harness. I'll have to leave the steering gearbox and front suspension in-place until I'm ready to tear it all apart... otherwise the car will be immovable where it sits - and we can't have that.

During the week, I'll be checking out a couple of cars at a local yard to see if their front clips are worthy. If so, then I'll be ordering some parts from Don to get the engine bay back in shape while the engine's at the machine shop.
Hey Eric -

Send some pics when you get a chance. I'd like to compare some before and after engine bay pics and get some ideas as well. I'd appreciate it. :)

Doc

 

Tnfastbk

VIP Members
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Sep 13, 2010
Messages
7,639
Reaction score
150
Received a couple of boxes from Ohio Mustang. But have not even had a chance to open them yet. Tonight worked on getting the under dash and inside firewall area painted, what a pita, but its painted. now need to get the dash assembly sprayed and then can start the reassembly of the complete dash.

 

Maiden Dearborn

VIP Members
Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Messages
226
Reaction score
1
Location
Flint - Michigan
My Car
1973 Mustang Mach 1 - Q-code auto - Medium Bright Yellow
After pulling the axles, I spent most of my time trying to heat up the garage with the propane heater. Once it was warm enough, I sanded the axles and tried to figure out how to remove the wheel bearings. Going to take the axles and the rear drums to the mechanic to see if the diameter of the drum is still within specs. Haven't used the brakes in 15 years, thought it might be a good idea. Spray painted the rear drum backing plates. Through them in front of the heater and boy do they dry fast...

 

72HCODE

"My World is Fire and Blood"
Joined
Jul 4, 2010
Messages
3,091
Reaction score
54
Location
New York
My Car
71 Mach 1.
You can get the wheel bearing off by using a carbide cutoff wheel, cut the outer case on the bearing, 180 apart then remove it, the bearings will fall out of the cage, cut the cage to expose the inner chase.

Use a cutoff wheel and cut the bearing retainer ring half way to the axle do not cut through it, use a large screw driver in the slot you cut and strike it with a hammer, it will split. Remove it.

Do the same for the bearing chase score it with the cutoff wheel do not cut through it, use the screwdriver and hammer in the same way the inner race will crack, remove it.

The reason you do all this is to protect the machined part of the axle shaft you cannot score or damage that area in any way.

Next run you finger nail around the bearing area and where the axle seal rides on.

Make sure it's smooth no gouges. If it's very rusty and pitted around the seal, you will need replacement axles.

To install new bearings you will need a shop press, or you can use a pipe that goes around the axle shaft and is small enough to only sit on the inner bearing race. Then you hammer a new bearing on until it seats 100%, check it's rotation once installed to make sure it's not damaged.

Then do the same thing for the bearing retainer ring.

Make sure before you start that the axle bolt plate is installed first before you install the bearing.

To install a new seal first you can use the edge of the axle spline side insert it into the axle just behind the rubber seal and pry the old seal out with the axle.

To install the new seal use a seal driver and hammer it in carefully make sure it goes in straight and it does not have to bottom out all the way go easy to much hammering will damage it.


Take the time to inspect the axle splines make sure nothing is twisted

Also inspect the yoke seal for leaks, try the wiggle the yoke around and check for any play in the axle, might be time for a pinion and ring gar service.

 
Last edited by a moderator:

Maiden Dearborn

VIP Members
Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Messages
226
Reaction score
1
Location
Flint - Michigan
My Car
1973 Mustang Mach 1 - Q-code auto - Medium Bright Yellow
Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to see what the mechanic charges and get back with you on the wheel bearings.

Thanks again.

 

Mach

VIP Members
Joined
Aug 9, 2010
Messages
131
Reaction score
4
Location
Columbia, Mo.
My Car
'72 Fastback (Mach Badging)
'06 Coupe (Mach Tribute)
Well, here is from last night and so far today. Working to remove some little "problem" areas in trunk drop offs. Doing passenger now. Here is pic of new panel, custom cut to old dimentions and part I removed. The other pic is where it came out. Notice the thin, rusted bottom. Now that is removed and ready for custom fabbed peice. I just need to custom fab that peice up.

Oh, BTW, I have never done any body work in my life...LOL. If somebody sees me doing something stupid, please feel free to bonk me in the head and correct me... :D

IMG00697-20101106-0910a.jpg

IMG00695-20101106-0910a.jpg

IMG00700-20101106-0954a.jpg

IMG00702-20101106-0954a.jpg

 

coilwire

VIP Members
Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Messages
707
Reaction score
1
Location
Rochelle,Il
My Car
1971 mach1
Pulled the engine on my 71 mach yesterday and tore down block. Now to order new rings and bearings. Fried engine at the strip last day of racing.

 

c9zx

VIP Members
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Messages
5,426
Reaction score
332
Location
Mustang, OK.
My Car
1972 Mach 1 Q code
2007 GT
1969 Cougar Eliminator B302
CSX 7000 Shelby Cobra FIA
2020 Edge ST
2002 F250 V10
I did final polish on trunk lid and installed the rear spoiler. I wasted the rest of the day searching salvage yards for a front left fender extension.

 

bkelley

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 3, 2010
Messages
140
Reaction score
0
Location
Las Vegas, NV
My Car
1973 Mustang Mach 1

• 351C-4V "Q-Code"
• Cammed, Hooker Longtubes, Edelbrock Manifold, Holley 600CFM, Glasspacks, Unknown Gears
• C4 Auto
Replaced the starter and solenoid. The old starter would slip when trying to get the engine to turn over and was making it hard to get it to start. With the new one in it starts like a champ. Got a manual choke cable coming in the mail as well. Should be able to keep it running and let it idle once we get that on. Right now you have to control the butterfly by hand to keep it running.

 
Last edited by a moderator:

Latest posts

Top