for all of you 73 guys who want to lose weight like me

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BigPinoyHunk

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here are a few pics of crites alumium bumper brackets and fiberglass bumper.

i plan on completely swapping the brackets and swapping the bumper when needed.

alumn73mustgbumperbrkts.jpg

insideofbumper73must.jpg

 
Guys,

I have one ordered already. I should have it shortly. Crites makes most items in house and it is on a as ordered basis and worth the wait. They also repro the 71 429 radiator shroud, if anyone needs one.

Thanks, Jay

 
I believe I took off as much as I could being that I am going to run a 460. Between the bumper, brackets and cast iron intake, I had to lose at least a hundred or so.

Thanks, Jay

 
I believe I took off as much as I could being that I am going to run a 460. Between the bumper, brackets and cast iron intake, I had to lose at least a hundred or so.

Thanks, Jay
same here, i need to do the bumper stuff. i will be running a alumium intake and headers instead of manifolds. having alumium wheels help too. my old 15x7 magnum 500 weighed more than my 17x8 alumium wheels and my 17x11 alumiums on my street tires. also not to mention having 15x4's in the front with front runners.

for the interior, i am only putting back in a factory looking carpet. i'm going to replace the door panels with alumium silver panel and no back seat. the front seats will be 2 kirkey seats. but not to mention XX lbs of bars for the roll cage.

 
hey guys i have been thinking of shaving some weight as well. my idea i don't know if it will work but i want to try is, taking the front bumper iron out of the cover and welding up a aluminum one and putting the cover back on. is it possible to get the cover off without ruining it?

 
The best place to remove weight is off the nose.
Really the why is it most noticed off the rear:huh:
Front engined cars are naturally nose heavy (so much more with a big block). Removing weight from the front of the car brings the center of gravity more toward the center of the vehicle. This also brings the cars instant center (the point around which the car rotates) rearward improving both acceleration and handling. Moving the cars center to the middle and down is beneficial for the best handling. That's why cars handle better than trucks, all things being equal.

 
The best place to remove weight is off the nose.
Really the why is it most noticed off the rear:huh:
Front engined cars are naturally nose heavy (so much more with a big block). Removing weight from the front of the car brings the center of gravity more toward the center of the vehicle. This also brings the cars instant center (the point around which the car rotates) rearward improving both acceleration and handling. Moving the cars center to the middle and down is beneficial for the best handling. That's why cars handle better than trucks, all things being equal.
Oh I see now DUH


But seriously if you want to lose some extra pounds go here

http://www.darkhorseracing.net/71-73_mustang.htm

chunky-butts.jpg

 
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going into fiberglass fenders and doors scare me. cuz i don't want to be leaning onto the fenders working into the engine bay and crack the fenders. i'll be OK with doing a fiberglass hood though.

for now, i'll stick with the alumium brackets. if i remember right, the OEM brackets are like 40 pounds each and the alum ones are 6lbs each. if i were to go to the bumper, that'll only be used at the track but its easy to swap 4 bolts.

the hood, bumpers, and battery to the rear will help ALOT in the front.

 
hey guys i have been thinking of shaving some weight as well. my idea i don't know if it will work but i want to try is, taking the front bumper iron out of the cover and welding up a aluminum one and putting the cover back on. is it possible to get the cover off without ruining it?
Ya the rubber cover actually has a steel moulded framing under it. The steel frame that bolts to the bracket is held to the rubber with 5 or 6 nuts. There are access holes in the frame to get to them but they tend to rust up really bad. Spray them down with blaster first and let them sit. I accidently broke one off before lubing them up.


Where would this fiberglass bumper stand as far as safety? Im thinking about getting it becasue my body guy is hesitating on painting my rubber bumper. Hes had it since October! So is the fiberglass bumper a good idea? How well does it fit? Anyone have pics of theirs?

 
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hey guys i have been thinking of shaving some weight as well. my idea i don't know if it will work but i want to try is, taking the front bumper iron out of the cover and welding up a aluminum one and putting the cover back on. is it possible to get the cover off without ruining it?
Ya the rubber cover actually has a steel moulded framing under it. The steel frame that bolts to the bracket is held to the rubber with 5 or 6 nuts. There are access holes in the frame to get to them but they tend to rust up really bad. Spray them down with blaster first and let them sit. I accidently broke one off before lubing them up.


Where would this fiberglass bumper stand as far as safety? Im thinking about getting it becasue my body guy is hesitating on painting my rubber bumper. Hes had it since October! So is the fiberglass bumper a good idea? How well does it fit? Anyone have pics of theirs?
i'm a 65 track / 35 street percent guy so i just plan on removing on and off the OEM bumper. during the race dates, i plan on putting the super light fiberglass bumper. then when i'm just going to cruise, i'm going to go ahead and use my jack to rebolt up the heavy poly bumper. pain in the ass but oh well.

i'm going to start with putting the battery in the trunk however.

 
i love the idea would like to see one on a car see what it looks like. i want to keep it stock looking as possible. the new brackets will def be on my list to buy.

 
While I am not trying to initiate a big block versus small block argument, I personally subscribe to the "build enough HP and/or torque approach" whereby the weight thing becomes a "non-player."

It has been reported that you can take approximately 140 pounds out of a 460 (via a 521/545/557 build with aluminum heads, intake and water pump). This will provide a motor weighing less than @600 pounds making in excess of 750HP (at the flywheel) and a nearly FLAT torque curve between 2500 RPM and 6500 RPM.

Quite frankly Olie, I don't think you need to take out any additional weight considering your stated use (bracket racing/cruising) of your Mustang, even with that iron-headed 521:).

Just my $.02

BT

 
While I am not trying to initiate a big block versus small block argument, I personally subscribe to the "build enough HP and/or torque approach" whereby the weight thing becomes a "non-player."

It has been reported that you can take approximately 140 pounds out of a 460 (via a 521/545/557 build with aluminum heads, intake and water pump). This will provide a motor weighing less than @600 pounds making in excess of 750HP (at the flywheel) and a nearly FLAT torque curve between 2500 RPM and 6500 RPM.

Quite frankly Olie, I don't think you need to take out any additional weight considering your stated use (bracket racing/cruising) of your Mustang, even with that iron-headed 521:).

Just my $.02

BT
i'm hoping to pull down a super low 1.5xx or a high 1.4xx 60ft with the new motor so a little nose weight could help. i will however start with moving the battery to the back.

 
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