Lets build a Map Light!

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Joined
May 18, 2024
Messages
5
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14
Location
Atlanta
My Car
1973 Convertible
9A WW, B/W interior
"Fallout"
Well, after having an OEM map light sitting on the shelf for ~5 years it's time to put my schooling to work and make something with modern components that doesn't cost an arm and a leg. This is going to be an interesting process as the original style switch is integrated into the housing of assembly. I'll take more progress photos as time goes on but the 3D printer that is being used for the prototypes had a sensor failure so it'll be at least a week before the next version can be run.

Goals for the build:
1) ~$75 price per unit when complete (or lower if possible but they have to be made by hand)
2) Modern switch and bulb that looks close if not exact to OEM (trying to find LEDs that match original dash light tone to keep the assembly cooler than a glass bulb)
3) Use durable materials to prevent having to replace things in the future from parts wearing on each other or burning out

If I can get the draft angles and electronic situated nicely the plan is to resin cast the bodies out of a thermoset plastic to prevent any warping during summers or in hot garages, while more expensive than using something like a raw 3D print it lends to a better finish quality rather than each unit having to be sanded individually.
 

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Need some feedback for switch preference - I've been unable to find a 3 position switch that matches the throw of the original so there's 2 options

1) Use a modern switch that is slightly smaller and directly toggle the switch positions
2) Cover the modern switch with a sleeve that matches the OEM size and appearance (the additional part would mean a higher production cost and therefore end user cost)
 
Need some feedback for switch preference - I've been unable to find a 3 position switch that matches the throw of the original so there's 2 options

1) Use a modern switch that is slightly smaller and directly toggle the switch positions
2) Cover the modern switch with a sleeve that matches the OEM size and appearance (the additional part would mean a higher production cost and therefore end user cost)
I'd go with option 1. No sense making it cost more than necessary.
 
I used a simple on-off switch with a diode so that when the dome light is turned on the map light also comes on, but when the map light is turned on the dome light does not come on.
 
3D printer that I've been using to make prototypes had a short on the control board so I've been back to the digital side of things. Mocked up this version with a correct switch texture pattern, going to order switches after a couple other projects get wrapped up (trying to avoid misplacing the components). Still working on finding a light setup that is an appropriate brightness and size. Once I get more parts in I'll make a test version with each switch configuration to see how much of a difference the extra part actually makes.
 

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