Need to replace front and rear springs

AcesArneson said:

Thanks for the information, if it's not a cure-all then I will likely nix trying to find the parts to stagger mine. I spoke with an old timer that told me they used to strap down every leaf on the front side of the spring with a leaf lock to get rid of wheel hop and axle wrap. He said it made the car more rigid as well. I will see what mine is like when I get it on the road. If it hops or wraps I will try the leaf locks and see what happens. If it doesn't work I guess it's on to traction bars and maybe even some lighter springs.

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You're up early!!
I see you have quite a powerful motor in the Vert. I assume you have an open dif if you're concerned about wheel hop, which will be on the right (drive) wheel.
That is why I originally bought the Grab-A-Trak springs with the extra 1/2 leaf. The problem with those was the arch was way too much and raised the back end too high. I added lowering blocks, but later ditched them for Eaton Boss 351 springs as well as getting the rear axle modified to a Trac-Lock. I only have a stockish motor, but no more wheel hop off the "line".
By the way, I hate the look of traction bars..... unless it's on a drag car.

Stanglover said:

You're up early!!
I see you have quite a powerful motor in the Vert. I assume you have an open dif if you're concerned about wheel hop, which will be on the right (drive) wheel.
That is why I originally bought the Grab-A-Trak springs with the extra 1/2 leaf. The problem with those was the arch was way too much and raised the back end too high. I added lowering blocks, but later ditched them for Eaton Boss 351 springs as well as getting the rear axle modified to a Trac-Lock. I only have a stockish motor, but no more wheel hop off the "line".
By the way, I hate the look of traction bars..... unless it's on a drag car.

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The rear gears were the first thing to go after I dropped the engine off for the rebuild. Changed from 2.75 by open to 3.5 limited slip. I would also prefer to stay away from traction bars too. Hopefully I am fretting over nothing and don’t have any issues.

AcesArneson said:

The rear gears were the first thing to go after I dropped the engine off for the rebuild. Changed from 2.75 by open to 3.5 limited slip. I would also prefer to stay away from traction bars too. Hopefully I am fretting over nothing and don’t have any issues.

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The Boss springs are thicker steel, but would make the ride harsh for anyone in the back seat. Perhaps look at Eaton 138 lb springs and see if they will add a 1/2 leaf to the front end. Just a thought as that is what the 4 1/2 leaf G-a-T's were supposed to be for.

If your springs don't do it, Traction Masters work well - well enough for Carroll Shelby, anyway - and they aren't as obvious as traditional slapper traction bars.

AcesArneson said:

Thanks for the information, if it's not a cure-all then I will likely nix trying to find the parts to stagger mine. I spoke with an old timer that told me they used to strap down every leaf on the front side of the spring with a leaf lock to get rid of wheel hop and axle wrap. He said it made the car more rigid as well. I will see what mine is like when I get it on the road. If it hops or wraps I will try the leaf locks and see what happens. If it doesn't work I guess it's on to traction bars and maybe even some lighter springs.

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I did that about 1990. It works,but the car bounces or is a little rigid. As far as staggered shocks goes ,it does severely reduce hop, but it takes a longer shock on the staggered side. If you can’t find the correct shocks,you can add an extension on the threaded side. Napa sells them Balkanp $20 . If both are long , the drivers side is so compressed it could bottom out over bad bumps ,railroad tracks or speed bumps

Hi, I generally don't like high jacking on someone's tread but I have quick question. Do rear left springs degrade just because they old looking, 'somewhat' rusted, not busted?.

I have 72 Vert 351C and it was on my list to do after car for 25 years sat in my garage.

Looked at Eaton about 2 years ago and didn't pull the trigger. My car is go get an ice cream with an old man and old lady, LOL

The ass droops like they do, so why change them out. Would the ride change? Shocks are new.

Thx
TonyD

cv_72mustang said:

Hi, I generally don't like high jacking on someone's tread but I have quick question. Do rear left springs degrade just because they old looking, 'somewhat' rusted, not busted?.

I have 72 Vert 351C and it was on my list to do after car for 25 years sat in my garage.

Looked at Eaton about 2 years ago and didn't pull the trigger. My car is go get an ice cream with an old man and old lady, LOL

The ass droops like they do, so why change them out. Would the ride change? Shocks are new.

Thx
TonyD

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If you're happy with the ride then leave it alone. The metal the leafs are made of will lose tension over time from staying loaded. The spring is just to protect the car and riders from sudden jolting when you hit uneven spots in the road. Most of us change springs because we are looking to increase resistance to the springing motion which can really help the car corner well during acceleration/deceleration or hard cornering.

roboconklin said:

I did that about 1990. It works,but the car bounces or is a little rigid. As far as staggered shocks goes ,it does severely reduce hop, but it takes a longer shock on the staggered side. If you can’t find the correct shocks,you can add an extension on the threaded side. Napa sells them Balkanp $20 . If both are long , the drivers side is so compressed it could bottom out over bad bumps ,railroad tracks or speed bumps

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What kind of rear gears do you have in that car? Are they open 2.75's?

AcesArneson said:

What kind of rear gears do you have in that car? Are they open 2.75's?

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They are 3.70 with Eaton Tru Track now. Back in the 90’s when the front half of the leafs were clamped it was a 4.55 spool. It hooked so hard gas would come out the pop open cap if it was a full tank. Not a good ride,but you need to focus on your needs/have priorities. I’m older now and used Eaton springs with Delum bushings and shackles and standard shocks I used 10” Magnum 500 wheels with Cooper Cobra 195/50-15 tires. It hood well and looks basically stock

Correction it was 4.88 gears. I don’t recommend this…. My upper quarter panels 6” below the sides of the window soon looked like wavy water and poor drivability. In left hand turns at a light it would hit second gear in the apex of the turn and in damp roads it would spin around. If ever there was a stupid mistake… I’ve done it. I later lost control of it with narrow tire on it and went off the road and and hit a small brick light on a drive. This wasted the front half of the car….So . This is a whole new body on this car. I used a donor car and put my drive train in it. Well now you can laugh at my childish ways. I just hope 12 years to restore my donor car and my previous drive train. Let’s hope for the best

Stanglover said:

You're up early!!
I see you have quite a powerful motor in the Vert. I assume you have an open dif if you're concerned about wheel hop, which will be on the right (drive) wheel.
That is why I originally bought the Grab-A-Trak springs with the extra 1/2 leaf. The problem with those was the arch was way too much and raised the back end too high. I added lowering blocks, but later ditched them for Eaton Boss 351 springs as well as getting the rear axle modified to a Trac-Lock. I only have a stockish motor, but no more wheel hop off the "line".
By the way, I hate the look of traction bars..... unless it's on a drag car.

Click to expand...

Are you saying wheel hop is only a concern with an open diff? I just got back from a somewhat "spirited" ride in my car and got some fairly nasty wheel hop. 2.75:1 open diff and the basic, non competition suspension. I'm sure the rear springs are original. I did swap out the shocks for single adjustable QA1, and are sitting right about in the middle.

Eventually, I'd like to swap to an eaton tru-trak in the rear end, so no open diff. If that is enough to eliminate the wheel hop, then good, I can stop there. Or should I also be looking at a different set of springs or caltracs or something? I know the old school look was the traction bars.

giantpune said:

Are you saying wheel hop is only a concern with an open diff? I just got back from a somewhat "spirited" ride in my car and got some fairly nasty wheel hop. 2.75:1 open diff and the basic, non competition suspension. I'm sure the rear springs are original. I did swap out the shocks for single adjustable QA1, and are sitting right about in the middle.

Eventually, I'd like to swap to an eaton tru-trak in the rear end, so no open diff. If that is enough to eliminate the wheel hop, then good, I can stop there. Or should I also be looking at a different set of springs or caltracs or something? I know the old school look was the traction bars.

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I'm no expert on this subject, I just reflected on my own experience with an open dif. I can say though, now I have better traction through both wheels, I've not experienced the problem again. As for springs, new Eaton leaf springs can't hurt especially if yours are the originals. I chose the Boss (153 lb spring rate) springs, but to be honest, these were a bit of overkill. The 138 lb spring would have been perfectly ok..... and a bit less bone jarring on rough city streets. Hope that helps.

Hey Ace, I noticed your B&M Blower in one of the photos. They are no longer made, B&M, Holley, and Weiand have all gone obsolete. The good news is I work at The Blower Shop, in Boise Idaho. We can overhaul your blower, as we do a lot of those for people . We stock all of the bearings, seals, and gaskets. Just a heads up, should yours need servicing.

One rear spring option I have not seen mentioned is the Maier style. I run them on my car. They are kinda like a mullet, business in the front, party in the back. The back half of the springs is similar to standard stock leafs. The front half is several more half leafs that go to the front eyelet. You end up with a spring that is very resistant to wrap/ hop but still is reasonably soft.

I am about 425 horsepower at the flywheel and don’t have any wheel hop issues with 275 rear tires.

https://mikemaierinc.com/products/64-73-mustang/rear-suspension/64-73-mustang-mod-leaf-springs/

Bentworker said:

One rear spring option I have not seen mentioned is the Maier style. I run them on my car. They are kinda like a mullet, business in the front, party in the back. The back half of the springs is similar to standard stock leafs. The front half is several more half leafs that go to the front eyelet. You end up with a spring that is very resistant to wrap/ hop but still is reasonably soft.

I am about 425 horsepower at the flywheel and don’t have any wheel hop issues with 275 rear tires.

https://mikemaierinc.com/products/64-73-mustang/rear-suspension/64-73-mustang-mod-leaf-springs/

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Interesting Maier rear spring. Thanks for sharing.