Looking for 351 Cooling Improvements.

Randyi00 said:

Hi Paul,

Thanks for this tip, it's a really interesting trick and one I can easily try.

One question though, does this not essentially do the same thing as running one of the aftermarket block off plates in place of the OEM restrictor plate? If the tube that's inserted into the OEM restrictor plate is bottomed out on the block as you described, then coolant cannot flow up through it at any point regardless of the t-stat position, right?

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Randyi00 said:

Hi Paul,

Thanks for this tip, it's a really interesting trick and one I can easily try.

One question though, does this not essentially do the same thing as running one of the aftermarket block off plates in place of the OEM restrictor plate? If the tube that's inserted into the OEM restrictor plate is bottomed out on the block as you described, then coolant cannot flow up through it at any point regardless of the t-stat position, right?

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Stanglover said:

I was wondering the same thing. I get that effectively raising the opening in the plate might allow better contact with stat and would better block off the flows when needed, but having the tube bottom out on the casting effectively blocks it of completely. That's how my mind sees it. I would have to see that in a drawing to fully understand the logic.
If it is the case that the protruding 1/4" or so is the main factor, then would removing the brass plate and soldering a 1/4" or so piece of brass tube to the top side, then reinserting the plate do the same thing? Again, with out seeing it drawn up, that is speculation.
As said, I get the idea in principle, I'm just not sure about the logic.

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Randyi00 said:

Hi Paul,

Thanks for this tip, it's a really interesting trick and one I can easily try.

One question though, does this not essentially do the same thing as running one of the aftermarket block off plates in place of the OEM restrictor plate? If the tube that's inserted into the OEM restrictor plate is bottomed out on the block as you described, then coolant cannot flow up through it at any point regardless of the t-stat position, right?

Click to expand...

Paul of MO said:

That would absolutely work as well. Getting the restrictor out can be a pain.

The "tube mod" is about as easy to do as it gets.

As stated the tube does not sit flush against block and does let considerable coolant past.

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tony-muscle said:

I wonder if the bottom of the block there is not flat so if it is at an angle it won't block it off completely. I haven't paid attention to it before so I don't know.

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Spike Morelli said:

I thought I'd also add, that many times when overheating problem cars came into the shop, amongst all of the various things members have mentioned here, what we would always check as just part of the inspection, was to test the customer's radiator cap. The caps very often don't hold pressure as they should, even when new, which will allow coolant to boil. The protocall was to check the cap separately, and entire cooling system for pressure checking, was to pressurize to 15 pounds and must hold for 15 minutes. We did this whenever we did a water pump, t-stat, radiator hoses, anytime we disrupted the cooling system, it got the 15/15 test .

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tony-muscle said:

Reading about radiator caps, I just replaced mine with one of those that have an anode hanging from it.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDK-C5ZZ8100RCE

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Spike Morelli said:

I have a good friend who has a highly modified Camaro, ran into the same scenario, put in a new modern aluminum radiator ( he told me he bought it 'cause it looked so hi-tech), however didn't cool any better, actually ran hotter, so he put the heavy duty original back in and temps came back down. He also got rid of the electric fans he had installed. I probably would have as well. Sometimes electric fans become just another wiring complication, can be noisy, and to me, fans in front of the radiator, where they're seen through the grille, take away from a clean looking front view, but, some like the look.

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rcadd1ct said:

Have you checked your spark timing at idle?

That might cause issues if it is to far off, too.

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boilermaster said:

Ok,
I am seeing a pattern here,
aluminum radiators. both 3 and 4 core probably do not flow as well as thier OEM counterparts and who is still running OEM timing with 1971-73 fuel ?
We change the base, curve and total timing because the lead and octane are no longer there, how can we expect what goes on in the combustion process (and therefore the thermal dynamics) to be the same as it was back in the day ?
I am personally volunteering to take my 1971 fb back in time to investigate this phonomime, I will report back if and when I get back.
Don't know how much 1971 fuel, I can bring back, so I am filling my tank first.
Boilermaster

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boilermaster said:

Ok,
I am seeing a pattern here,
aluminum radiators. both 3 and 4 core probably do not flow as well as thier OEM counterparts and who is still running OEM timing with 1971-73 fuel ?
We change the base, curve and total timing because the lead and octane are no longer there, how can we expect what goes on in the combustion process (and therefore the thermal dynamics) to be the same as it was back in the day ?
I am personally volunteering to take my 1971 fb back in time to investigate this phonomime, I will report back if and when I get back.
Don't know how much 1971 fuel, I can bring back, so I am filling my tank first.
Boilermaster

Click to expand...

boilermaster said:

Ok,
I am seeing a pattern here,
aluminum radiators. both 3 and 4 core probably do not flow as well as thier OEM counterparts and who is still running OEM timing with 1971-73 fuel ?
We change the base, curve and total timing because the lead and octane are no longer there, how can we expect what goes on in the combustion process (and therefore the thermal dynamics) to be the same as it was back in the day ?
I am personally volunteering to take my 1971 fb back in time to investigate this phonomime, I will report back if and when I get back.
Don't know how much 1971 fuel, I can bring back, so I am filling my tank first.
Boilermaster

Click to expand...