1972 Convertible resto mod

Seems like foresight was not my best suit when I started posting questions and while it would have been smarter to get a thread rolling here first, everything was just being piecemealed together out of little repair projects and didn't think I'd be doing enough to fill things in. Well, I was all wet on that one.

So, better late than never and I'll try to put some of the more project timeline related pics and messages here for easy viewing and following too.

These last couple weeks saw the motor and trans being pulled, additional items being removed and cleaning up all the dirt, grease and over spray 52 years and 3 owners have contributed to.

Last week just before motor pull



Yesterday after first round of cleaning. The wiper assembly has been removed as well as anything else necessary for continued cleaning, possible media blasting and paint. Unfortunately, crawling up under the dash at this point, to remove the vacuum booster and brake assembly is a no-go. Did remove the newly reinstalled steering gearbox but that was more out of preservation of the nice, clean red cap that makes that stand apart from the rest.

Thought I did a fairly decent job of cleaning behind it, sure did miss allot more than I was happy with. If you're going to go this far, what's a couple extra minutes to make sure you're doing the detail correctly. The booster still isn't coming out. I've already had the argument and guilt-trip with myself, and it did no good. He (I) wasn't budging.



As mentioned in another thread, about the '70 4V heads and the new Scorpion roller rockers and soon to purchase Comp Cams 215/215 hydraulic roller cam kit, I located this to solve the spread bore issue I was dealing with since I purchased a stock 4V manifold to go atop the engine. Thought the old Offy would be a good move since the car is Ram-air and I didn't wish to mess with adapters or modifying the air cleaner housing. Still a little clean up and I am thinking of returning it to the blue original paint that I'm seeing in the deeper recesses of the manifold.


Edit: Also, forgot to ask about color of the cowl/firewall area on top. Has anyone ever made it the car color or am I confusing it with other years? As I stood there cleaning things, I found the original Ivy Glow under some of the black. That's asked understanding that the hood on the '71-'73 model goes all the way to the windshield so I'm not a complete maroon.

So, not that there’s a loss of things to do with the car, or probably better said, I shouldn’t be looking for things. So, what did I decide since I’m down the compressor, and who’d a thunk that every hydraulic roller cam in the range I’m looking for is out of stock and can’t work on the motor, why not look at the engine compartment wiring. Yeah. That’s something that doesn’t need much attention or patience.
I was thinking of a way to avoid ripping it out back to the dash so, has anyone out there installed a connection point just on the outside of the firewall?
From my experience with my truck about 12 years ago, getting a new American Autowire system was the way to go but today, while the better decision, the price has reached the untouchable status with everything else in the works.
Plus, there’s a point where too much disassembling might be disastrous since I ain’t getting younger by the day.

Any thought's or suggestions would be appreciated.
.
Edit: after removing all of the tape, while dirty and grimy, the wire remains very pliable for something installed in August of ‘71.
I’m going with the thought something was replaced since the main power supply looks new unless it was always bright yellow.
That said, I’ll look at a couple of the harnesses on NPD or other sites and add those where needed. An example would be the upgrade to HD led headlights. To eliminate the original bulb connection points. A new alternator harness wouldn’t be a bad idea either. Otherwise, some tape will get it right.

This kind of ties back to the edit question in my first post. I am also curious about inner fender wells. Having grown up in the north where Ziebart and one other was offered so it's usually difficult to tell. When I was cleaning the inner fender wells, I noticed some over-spray from the original and repaint colors but not much else given the light coat of rust.
What are some of the choices made by ya'll here? I understand the black around the aprons and suspension but has anyone actually color coordinated their inner fender?

Since I don't build to concours standards anymore, I just go with black. A little truck bed liner to dampen stones thrown off the tires, it desired. Looks good and easy to touch up when needed.

Sheriff41 said:

Since I don't build to concours standards anymore, I just go with black. A little truck bed liner to dampen stones thrown off the tires, it desired. Looks good and easy to touch up when needed.

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Stones are a definite hazard in our area given the number of times Safelite has been out to fix our two daily drivers. Truck bed liner, huh, didn't think of that one. Since the fenders are off and when that time does arrive, thought I'd shoot them separately so's not to need to mask off the aprons. Then again, shooting the wells off and masking might be the easiest solution and less traumatic since I'm bound to ding them during any attempt at installation.
Planned on using chassis epoxy paint on all the inner aprons and suspension parts. Maybe just change to bed liner for consistency?

Started the week by tracing some of the wires and their respective connections. Thought it was a good idea to label them now, so I didn't have a memory issue a few months from now when I get thing reassembled. Given the wires are in really good shape, not going to mess with replacing them.

This is about as bad as it gets for me with rust deterioration, at least in the engine compartment. Given I really don't wish to go down the heater core A/C condenser removal route, planning on hitting this area with some form of rust reformer and maybe some form of putty filler before finishing.



It's been mostly wire-type brushes in the effort so far. Aside from media blasting the parts prepping for paint, I haven't figured a way to section things off so I can media blast in the garage. A couple ideas have popped into the process but it's going to be more involved than I'd like. I thought about purchasing one of those portable spray booths from online and only needing to ten the opening. It's more about getting on a ladder that is keeping me from wrapping the whole garage. Given the stats out there, some things we should avoid doing after a certain age is climbing 10ft up a ladder and then trying to hang PVC and the supports.

First off, an update on yesterday, really didn't get anything accomplished. Days like this are not bad to have once in a while. Started running errands and time got away. However, I was not completely idle with the car. When I set out, I threw the crank, rods and pistons into the back of the Subie and headed off to the Engine builder.

I was talked into polishing the crank. It was explained I wouldn't be disappointed and understanding what it can do, I'll agree. I also have to say the price was right too. As far as the rods and pistons go, Jimmy was going to check the rods and caps as well as clean the tar off the pistons. Took extra care of etching the number of the cylinder on the side of the piston next to the pin. Nothing that comes in contact with the wall for sure but since the motor was given a .030 over fairly recently, there's no need to change pistons. Rings may be a different story, and I know where those will come from right off the bat, D.S.S. That would also be my source for pistons to but...not needed yet.

After checking tolerances on the block like taper, decided not to do anything to the block other than a bead gaze breaker. The one unknown for that is what bore. The original bore is 4". My readings have been right in the area of the 0.030 so I'm guessing that the tool needs to be right there as well. A couple sources for that and still looking, so the engine just sits, with an oscillating fan to deter any rust as well as keeping things clean with a light fil of oil being reapplied as needed to all rotating assembly and cylinder surfaces. no rush since we're dealing with valve train issues now.

As far as the engine sitting, some of what I explained above, specifically work on the block, may change and if I get more frustrated trying to find a cam (yesterday and the start of today has been nothing but an exercise in futility or a complete waste of time and the same as the other 4 days trying. There was a glimmer of hope, if I wanted to pay extra. Of course, there's always an option if you spend more money to get less. One major mfgr. who's out of both cams and trays said they would custom grind a blank. All I could hear from that side of the call was cha ching! So, we wait. Ultra-committed to going hydraulic roller so let's hope I can still drive a car by the time a cam appears. That's why I say

Finally, a couple changes lately have made me look at things a bit different so, I'd like to add that I feel very fortunate to have had this car fall into my lap. Granted it's not perfect otherwise I wouldn't have gotten it for the price I did. However, some might say that I sound like I'm complaining a whole lot about things. Well? I'm really, I mean, seriously and sincerely not. I have a sarcastic streak the size of the Grand Canyon (of the East if anyone can guess what that is) and while I do say serious things once in a while, it's all nothing more than a spot-check on myself.

I've seen some of these cars start out in horrendous condition and get turned into masterpieces, pure artwork, by many of you here. I can only hope to get this project to turn out half as good. It's sort of a redemption for me and what life was like when I had my '66, 45 years dumber and full of unfocused energy. Thanks for following, and for the comments along the way in many other posts. Nothing has gone unlearned even for an old dog.

Today will be spent bouncing between media blasting and a couple light tasks of clean up. Even with blasting outside, that fine coal slag grit gets everywhere, door closed, open up, down or no wind. Really nasty stuff if ya ask me. It's also important to figure out this moisture issue being experienced with the new compressor. It sure was a heluva lot of money for something like this to malfunction. Tech support has me doing a couple dozen things to give them an answer, but the ironic thing is, it's the same answers and problems I'm seeing others are dealing with, so they already know what needs to be done. Just wish they do it and I could focus on other issues. That is a complaint so for now? Time to make the donuts!

The weekend was semi productive for the car, ultimately wasting too much time trying to deal with the compressor.

Started to clean up the patina on the Offy. Most of the grime was in the deep recesses and if this is going to don Ford blue again, it definitely needs to be cleaned. Although I have to say, cleaning with wire brushes actually did put a bit appealing finish but think it would look more to the period if it was painted. Fully understand it's not original to the car but that doesn't mean I can't make it look like it belongs there. I'm thinking we will get some questions about it once we're able to get back to club gatherings and runs.
View attachment 93075

More about the motor, the new hydraulic roller rockers arrived from Scorpion. They're the Endurance line, 1.73, 5/16's"pedestal mount. The highly appealing thing about them is, they're adjustable thru a set screw on the push rod end so I can avoid machining the for screw-in studs. While machining is minimal in costs, when you compare every option, keeping fully stock with hydraulic flat tappets, upgrading to a solid lifter or going roller, the decision, for me at least, made more sense to go hydraulic roller without machining.
I've read and been advised about too many disadvantages to using flat tappets and it just makes sense to bring it into a new age. While rollers have been around for ages, by "new age" it was meant as a comparison to the car and year of production as well and what was available way back when. I was getting out of things about the time rollers started to appear on the scene. They have made some great strides with all the renewed Detroit HiPo programs.



Also spent some time detailing the tranny and block. For whatever reason, I always had the impression the C-6 was the monster that had the iron case, but it turns out I was off since it's the FMX. Don't know why, just remembered it that way but it did correct 47-year-old misconception that's also been a theme lately, that's for sure.
Cleaned up the gasket surface for the timing chain cover on the block but didn't work on the heads surface. Basically, as I mentioned earlier, still on the fence about taking it to the shop for a dip. Just trying to reduce any hold-ups, but I believe the cam has smoked that thought like a set of tires in the bleach box.
I also don't wish to burden the shop any more than necessary since Jimmy's Engine is actually doing me a huge favor by taking work with the heads, crank and rods, when he's already booked out a couple months. I'll maybe talk with him later in the week since he did, kinda-sorta, mentioned the possibility. Finding out about the cam, sooner than later is going to be the key.
In the third pic below, we did have one snafu, the screw drain plugs for both the oil passages and cooling jackets were removed to flush everything with hot water. Having access directly to the Tankless and 180 deg water in the garage is definitely a plus.
Unfortunately, there had to be one screw that didn't want to cooperate, and the hex head stripped after several minutes of gently coaxing it loose with PB Blaster and a torch.
The effort continued for a comical length of time, about 2 hours, and the casualties mounted. Lost on this effort were, stripping an EZ out (both ends), breaking my 33-year-old tap wrench and, after sizing up a hole diameter at every attempt with the second EZ out, also ate up the jaw of a 45-year-old vice-grips. Oh yeah, can't forget a small bottle of map gas. Anyhow, the lesson of that was definitely one of futility and most importantly, this sucker wasn't going anywhere. So as I closed ou that frustration, I did get the threads in the block to be revealed so I'm either going to re-tap to clean or size up and go new. I believe cleaning and then using a good amount of goop will probably save me from the catastrophe waiting for me if I size up and go new. The curse of George Costanza is strong in this one.



So, after the work done earlier in the engine bay and the almost successful attempt at killing myself crawling in and out of that area, Saturday led me to cleaning the rear wheel wells and fuel line removal.
By the way, for a bit of comic interlude, anyone firmly in their 60's with numerous "physical shortcomings" or "coordination challenged" on solid ground, should not be climbing in and out of engine compartments with the aid of a ladder and then, after the near face-plant into a shock tower, decide crawling thru the radiator support was a better move. It wasn't. The scalping that took place was historical. That and a near face-plant into the engine cross-member was a good indication to rethink things. I started to rethink the tenting idea to media blast in the garage but then remembered I'm dealing with Eastwood on the compressor and it's outta service. By the way, the compressor is also another lesson in futility, a very, very expensive lesson. So, it's wire brushes and a good stock of back-up batteries for the DeWalt.
Below are pick of the work performed and what was uncovered with the rear wheel wells. Caveat to this would be, a bit more damage than was expected from the faulty trunk seal and the fact the car has been sitting again, a couple new areas appeared. The goal now is to coat the rusted areas with converter and then deal with them accordingly as best as I can.

In the pics, the rear sub-frame on the right (passenger) has some really different characteristics compared to the left. Maybe from a heavy-hand with the spot-welder but it just looks odd. Plus I can't find the date stamps on the driver's side but to be honest, a bit more cleaning is needed. In reality, the car is far too old for Carfax, so we rely heavily on the description the seller(s) use to provide the cars "known history". Given the challenges we see in the honesty department when it comes to classic cars previous owners, it looks like a repair but can't say for certain. It really doesn't change anything since I already own the car, but I am trying to keep a detail going for our daughter as she will be the next owner.
Realistically speaking, the car being 53 years old, it'll pick up a few dents and dings so that's no denying that. Just looking for a way to identify larger repairs would help. Anyone with a solid experience with this, please don't hesitate to help me understand things. I'll try and separate into sides with the pics.

Right (passenger) side.


Left (drivers) side


All things considered, nothing to complain about with condition. Not to get too "deep" about it but, I actually feel very lucky to have had this car fall in front of me. It's 53 years old this week and given the condition I've seen with many projects here and also remembering how poor of a condition these were in 40 plus years ago, even 30 years ago, I'd sincerely be in the wrong to complain about the car.
Just think of everything that might sound negative as being layered in comical sarcasm as deep as our cars were with bondo thru high school.

Edit: I just had a look at the post and have to say, these phone cameras are outstanding, but maybe a little too outstanding. The detail they pick up means I'll be spending more time trying to rub-out the Me made defects once I paint.

Edit: to correct picture placement under correct titles

Good evening all.

In another topic, a discussion about rust removal took place and to not hijack the OP topic, thought it would be more appropriate to keep things over here, especially given it's about work completed this weekend.

So, vinegar is tasty on foods, relatively inexpensive (especially in bulk from a place like Sam's) and it is the best rust remover I have ever seen. Holy Cow!
While I ran out of steam in the early evening today, I did get this cleaning accomplished.



The A/C brackets I recently received, motor mount perches, the tranny crossmember, vacuum canister and one of the headlight assembly's hung to dry. Well, actually, did dry with compressed air and hung them there to keep them clean.

You'll also see the two original lower control arms. I purchased some repro's when I first bought the car so those are still the plan. Currently, the upper control arms soaking overnight and will tidy those up tomorrow. There are a couple other parts like the second headlight assembly soaking too.

One last thing, I need some advice on what works best nowadays for prepping metal? Acetone, mineral spirits, thinner, etc., etc., before primer?

Before I head out to the garage to determine what items soaking don't look like Swiss cheese or parchment paper, I thought Id import a comment from a discussion in another topic. I believe it helps to show progress or tactics and outcome when it is more on-topic. As I've mentioned before too, I don't want to hijack anyone else's topic, just not good form.

So, there was something mentioned and that an orange staining after removing from the vinegar bath and it is a definite side-effect. I did have difficulty at first but realized it might be a combination of the surface rust you mentioned and the remnants of any grease or oily fluids the metal may have absorbed. Paint is another consideration since the vinegar is a very effective paint stripper. Often times, the paint falls off in the tank. Speaking of the tank, I just set up a larger dip tank with a 40 qt. Lexan container that has a heat related scar from years ago. The edge melted from being too close to the char-grill. Definitely a departure from its originally intended or past use but either way, it has served well for a couple decades.

For the soak tank after using vinegar, I've opted for one bowl of the garage work sinc and a mixture of Dawn Commercial Dish soap and water. As I scrub things off, I started using the Ecolab equivalent of Oil Eater and it starts to wash away almost immediately. It's their HD Degreaser available at Home Depot. 4 gallons of concentrate that makes 100 gallons of cleaner for $45 bucks is not a bad deal. Less than $0.50 a gallon. Although, there have been a couple of spots that requires a bit more time and the only grease I'm allowing near the clean things, elbow grease, to remove.

There was also some useful info to avoid the flash rust that forms and I'm working on a way to coat things without using any oils or lubes to prevent the light surface rust. Still sorting out prep for primer, also which paint for final coating, but the prep for primer is first concern. It's unfortunately a foredrawn conclusion that the flash rust will appear given our location. Can't escape the humidity of the coastal mid-Atlantic weather.

Does anyone have or know where to find this. Tried unsuccessfully on a dozen sites typing 1971-73 good latch grill support bracket. If it’s another name please correct me. Thanks.
Mine was repaired, rather poorly but it does fit and if push comes to shove, I can use it

Okay, so after removing all the crud and rust, it’s not so much a poor repair, just ugly. After thinking about what my attempt at this would look like it’s beautiful!
While it is solid, hidden and still aligns with the hole on the radiator support, probably not needing to replace it after all. There was one really interesting discovery, this part was stamped and installed on my birthday in 1971. Pretty cool!

As they say, "grinder and paint makes you the welder you ain't" haha. You can dress those welds and prime and paint it up and it would look good.

Okay, understanding and relying on the collective knowledge here, I’m going to attempt to cut the exhaust back to a point where I’ll fit the headers collector connection.

Based on the image and where the “H-pipe” is located, where is a good place? It’s right after the trans cross member by about a foot.

I’ve toyed with shorties in an effort to simplify things with the existing system but that was also before I removed the motor. That was not part of the plan but it does open up long tubes since they can be installed with the motor and tranny assembly. It also saves a couple bucks although I stand to end up washing that thought away since it might involve a new system.

Thoughts please. Cutting back to the point I’m asking allows me to get in and clean, refinish things better too. I’d rather crawl in from underneath to avoid the gymnastics needs from the top or core support.
Thanks!

Edit: No sense starting another topic so, how important is the fuel vapor recovery system to the car?

I get the 9 yard answer but this is not a daily driver and never will be neither will it need an inspection sticker for Virginia.
Im replacing the brake lines and both are in the way of work but it would also need replacing and while minimal, it’s a possibly avoidable expense.

I want to start out clarifying, I am not an expert, especially on Mustangs. It looks to me that your pipes head upwards to the manifolds like most exhaust front pipes. They appear to start to head up toward the manifold outlets right in front of the equalizer pipe. If you intend to use long tube headers you will want them to head straight forward to meet the header collector. If they are heading up, you may need to cut back to the H-pipe. IMO, if you are reusing the exhaust, I would cut as little as possible (or nothing at all) until you install the engine and trans with the headers and see how the angle is going to the collectors and cut what you have to cut then. Is the H pipe welded to the mufflers, or can you separate it from the mufflers and get it out from under the car so it's not in the way of the engine/trans install?

I used shorties on my 71 only because I had long tube headers on my 73 Mach 1 and they scraped on speed bumps a lot.
It still performed well on dyno, (about 430 HP / 450 torque) although to be honest we never did do a comparison with long tube headers to see how much power they rob.

Thank you to you both. The angle is from how these are routed. The scraping is something I remember of a friend’s 302 ‘71 vert. His was just glass packs off the collectors.
I believe with the Cleveland being in the car, the added weight makes it necessary to run everything inside the tunnel with the torque plate right behind the H.
I’m not sure how the sports roof or coupe owners run the setup.
I see you’re running a FMX with the shorties, do you have a stall converter?
My mild mods I’m thinking would benefit from long tubes but I do like the shorties.

On my phone right now so I’ll look at things later. Just wrapping up in the garage and it’s Gina be to late so I’ll do some checking and maybe a couple pics or measurements and check back tomorrow.

I've been running long tube Hooker Competition headers on my Q-code 72 convertible for a couple decades without any scraping. You guys must have some large speed bumps!

Sheriff41 said:

I've been running long tube Hooker Competition headers on my Q-code 72 convertible for a couple decades without any scraping. You guys must have some large speed bumps!

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Chuck,
How does your system route? Like I mentioned, my pipes route to the tunnel between the torque plate and the drive shaft. Also at what point under the car do the collectors end. An exact measurement isn't necessary but just a ballpark reference in position related to? Like cross member mount, speedo clamp, frame rail, etc..

The mufflers are tucked into the recesses just like everyone else and yes, we do have some monstrous speed bumps in the areas we would typically drive this car. It's all the historical distractions and it keeps people from racing thru the area and plowing into the rear of rubberneckers' that don't utilize the convenient and safe pull-offs the commonwealth has so graciously provided.
Dang tourists!

Thanks

I'll get a picture of it for you this weekend.