1971 351C valve cover help

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Fordguy427

Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2024
Messages
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Location
Potomac, MD
My Car
71 Mustang Convertible
IMG_4605.jpegIMG_4604.jpegGood evening,

Im hoping for ideas or suggestions, or even some guidance if any one else has run across this issue.
First off, a picture is worth a thousand words….my car has some cheaply chromed valve covers that make me want to puke every time I open the hood.
IMG_4607.jpeg
So once I finished puking I set about to change it. I really like the OEM Boss 351/302 valve covers, but I dont like the price LOL. So I bought a set of Ansen cast aluminum valve covers….so far so good. The issue is that the Ansen’s dont have a provision for the screw on Autolite cap that holds the PCV valve. Next picture is a set of Ford FE valve covers (painted more of a Pontiac blue? ******* hack previous owner) that have the proper size hole with the appropriate folded in metal that provides a “ramp” that the Autolite cap twists into and hits a stop after 1/4 turn. So I need to do 2 things to modify the Ansen valve covers….enlarge the hole to accomodate the Autolite cap, modify the hole so it has two notches to fit the Autolite cap, and somehow get a ramp built into the underside of the valve cover to allow the cap to pull itself tight to the cover. Anybody do this before?
 
Get a grommet and a press in breather cap. You can get the caps with or without a nipple for the breather hose. Check NPD, Kentucky Mustang, or one of the other parts houses for a variety of caps.
 
The valve covers came with the correct grommets, but I would like it to look OEM correct. Thats why I’m attempting to go with the Autolite 1/4 turn cap with the PCV valve going through the center.
 
If you have a piece of material the same thickness as the aluminum on the valve cover, try cutting a hole with the two notches and see how the valve cap twists in without the ramps. You may be able to bend the tabs on the cap so they will hold the cap in place on the flat surface. If it works, cut the notches in the valve cover and run with it. I agree with your choice of valve covers. I run the original Ford aluminum ones on both of my Mustangs.
 
Just my two cents, take it to a machine shop and see if they can match the opening for the twist on breather.
 
My 2Cents. Get rid of those imposters, and invest in some authentic Boss valve covers if you want to stay with aluminum. There are lots of used Boss covers around that can be acquired for a fair price..
Those covers are from Ansen Valve Covers. Ansen is the company that made the original B2 covers.
 
You can easily notch those aluminum covers with a dremel and a drill. If you want to DIY, first drill holes of similar size to the notch where the center is off the main hole. Once you finish the hole use the dremel to make it square. May not look perfect but it would work. It should also work without the drilling operation but a bit more work. If you want it to look perfect then find a machine shop that can mill it for you.
 
I thought I would take a look at historic prices. The prices of those valve covers in 1998 were $100 and $110, in 2020 they were both $190. So, the prices doubled in 22 years, and then doubled again in 4 years. DAMN!!!
 
Unfortunately what you are describing with pricing has happened all over the place. Trying to complete a pool project and quotes from electricians have gone up at least 3X since 2020.
 
I thought I would take a look at historic prices. The prices of those valve covers in 1998 were $100 and $110, in 2020 they were both $190. So, the prices doubled in 22 years, and then doubled again in 4 years. DAMN!!!
Glad I bought mine back in the early eighties! They even came with the drippers installed.
 
Unfortunately what you are describing with pricing has happened all over the place. Trying to complete a pool project and quotes from electricians have gone up at least 3X since 2020.
It's the same here in Canada. It's called an "inflation spiral". Supply and demand. The supply has been either kept low artificially to inflate prices, or the demand has simply outstripped the supply after "covid", if you get my meaning. The result is every supplier in tern increases their prices to cover the increase from the guy before and so on. Don't get me going about wage demands for 25% because of " 5% inflation". What BS, try living on a fixed income with a whopping 1.5% increase a year on old age security plus a small pension as I do, along with many other seniors.
Sorry for getting of track but............
 
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It's the same here in Canada. It's called an "inflation spiral". Supply and demand. The supply has been either kept low artificially to inflate prices, or the demand has simply outstripped the supply after "covid", if you get my meaning. The result is every supplier in tern increases their prices to cover the increase from the guy before and so on. Don't get me going about wage demands for 25% because of " 5% inflation". What BS, try living on a fixed in with a whopping 1.5% increase a year on old age security plus a small pension as I do, along with many other seniors.
Sorry for getting of track but............
Hang in there, Geoff.
 
I’m not completely sure my Boss has the ramps your talking about, It just has the two tangs on the cap that provide friction on the Valve cover. They are the originals too.
The ramps are there on late 70 B2s and 71 B1s, and 72 HOs. Chuck
 
The procedure to do the modification to the Ansen covers is relatively easy, and commonly done. You will need to use your Dremel tool . I used a carbide cutting disc in my Dremel to cut the notches used on the driver's side cover, and another fluted drum tip was used to cut down the fins where the factory wire looms go. The looms were sourced from NPD. On my application, I needed to "Notch" the oil baffles provided to clear the pushrod guide plates. Sounds scary, but I did it all pretty quickly. You can do it. Here are photos of my covers. I think these are the best looking aftermarket covers for a Cleveland. PS, those blue covers in your photo look like FE Big Block 390/352 covers to me!
 

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