Malwood hydraulic clutch installed

Finally had to chance to drop this guy in. Unfortunately it wasn't as drop in as I'd hoped. Wasn't a big deal. I just need to tweak my brackets some. 

First I had to remove the existing clutch pedal. Since I no longer needed my spring I was able to just cut it with a dremel and the pedal came right out. I didn't have to remove the two bolts holding the spring or and of the steering column. After that you will need to remove the brake pedal bolt. It has a nut on one end that you will no longer need.

On the clutch carrier there are two holes. There is a through hole and a threaded one. The kit comes with a sleeve that's threaded on both ends and the two bolts for each end. This is the one that replaces your old clutch rod. Next you'll need to run your existing brake bolt back through with the bolt head entering from the passengers side and thread into the threaded hole of the clutch carrier. 

This is all that would be required with the exception of drilling a hole into your firewall to run the throwout bearing and reservoir.

I had to shave down the bracket on my column and notch out the pedal to get smooth and full actuation. I spoke to the company and they are going to tweak the system some more so that this should no longer be an issue. 

Other mustang's might not run into what I'm seeing. I'm not sure how much manufacturing difference there might be between what's under the dash between the 71-73's. I believe their test carrier was out of a 71. Mine is a 73. Here are some before and after pics. As show before I'm using their throwout bearing and have been assured by the company that I will have full pedal travel without needing any stops. A buddy of mine who's helping me put my build together setup the bearing. I believe you want a 180-200 thousandths air gap for the bearing. Turned out to be 3 of 5 washers supplied with the kit. 

I can't speak on the performance yet but as it sits right now it looks like it will be a very sweet smooth system. I have nothing but good things to say about Malwood as a company. It' sunday while trying to install this and the company called me right back to work through this issue with me. Good customer service goes a very long way! Sorry, it looks like the way the pictures loaded will require you to look at the bottom and work your way up.

Hello,

I was just reading your post on this Malwood pedal assembly and wanted to know how it turned out and if your satisfied with the system.

I have a 72 and am thinking about going with this.

Thanks

Jesse

Hi, unfortunately I haven't had a chance to put it through its paces yet. Was able to get moving with the car over the winter but during the summer my weekends are very busy to where I don't get to work on the car, Still hoping to be running before summer is out. I recall just needing to shave some of the assembly down for smooth travel. The pedal would rub against the main pedal bracket assembly. Everything else including the TB seems solid. I was told by Malwood that with everything set properly that you could put the clutch to the floor without the fear of ever extending the TB. No need for any kind of stops under the pedal.

I spoke to the guy from Malwood about the mods I had to make and he mentioned about making that adjustment on his end. What I can say with my experience with this company is that I was always able to get a hold of someone. They answered my calls on a Sunday while I was doing my install. Good customer service goes a long way with me. Sorry I can't give anymore than that. Hope to find out soon myself.   

Older thread, just curious of your longer term opinion of this set up? I am thinking of going the same direction with mine.

also, which throw out bearing did you use? Thoughts on the Malwood Cherry TOB?

4thesporty said:

Older thread, just curious of your longer term opinion of this set up? I am thinking of going the same direction with mine.

also, which throw out bearing did you use? Thoughts on the Malwood Cherry TOB?

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I've had mine in my car for a year and a half, daily driving it. So far, it has worked perfectly.
I used an external slave cylinder on mine. Inside the bell housing, its setup like an 80s and early 90s mustang with the standard fork and throwout bearing. There's a bracket that mounts the slave cylinder to the side to actuate the thing.

I added a pedal stop to mine. I guess two years of use with a McLeod throw out bearing. Definitely would do again.

giantpune said:

I've had mine in my car for a year and a half, daily driving it. So far, it has worked perfectly.
I used an external slave cylinder on mine. Inside the bell housing, its setup like an 80s and early 90s mustang with the standard fork and throwout bearing. There's a bracket that mounts the slave cylinder to the side to actuate the thing.

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So yours looks different that the one posted above. The one above has the slave in the transmission shaft. Yours seem to have the slave at the fork. I am seeing this correctly. So it means that it can be retrofitted to an already installed clutch. I may be interested on this setup. Is there a limit on the travel length?

Edit: I guess I am finding answers to my own questions, but would like to hear your thoughts. DazeCars has a kit that can hook up to the TKO600. I guess I would need something like this kit with the Malwood master/pedal, right?
https://www.dazecars.com/dazed/Test3550bracket.html

tony-muscle said:

So yours looks different that the one posted above. The one above has the slave in the transmission shaft. Yours seem to have the slave at the fork. I am seeing this correctly. So it means that it can be retrofitted to an already installed clutch. I may be interested on this setup. Is there a limit on the travel length?

Edit: I guess I am finding answers to my own questions, but would like to hear your thoughts. DazeCars has a kit that can hook up to the TKO600. I guess I would need something like this kit with the Malwood master/pedal, right?
https://www.dazecars.com/dazed/Test3550bracket.html

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The malwood setup is only the master cylinder side of things. You can put whatever you want on the other end of the hydraulic line at the transmission. When I ordered all my parts from modern driveline, that was the conscious decision on my part to go with the external slave instead of the hydraulic throwout bearing. I did it this way because its easier to adjust and service. You also can select whatever cylinder diameter and travel you want. That gives you more options for dialing in your pedal travel and effort. Mine is a 0.75" bore. If you went with a smaller bore, you could get more pedal travel for the same amount of clutch pedal travel, and the effort would increase. And the kit you linked to says 7/8" bore, which would give you less pedal travel, but be easier to push. You have to consider the bore of the master and the slave together. I think the 0.75 slave is a good match for the malwood master.

The kit I have uses this mounting bracket that requires you drill 2 holes in your bell housing to bolt it in place. https://www.moderndriveline.com/sho...t-t-5-tko-for-79-93-sbf-aluminum-bellhousing/

giantpune said:

The malwood setup is only the master cylinder side of things. You can put whatever you want on the other end of the hydraulic line at the transmission. When I ordered all my parts from modern driveline, that was the conscious decision on my part to go with the external slave instead of the hydraulic throwout bearing. I did it this way because its easier to adjust and service. You also can select whatever cylinder diameter and travel you want. That gives you more options for dialing in your pedal travel and effort. Mine is a 0.75" bore. If you went with a smaller bore, you could get more pedal travel for the same amount of clutch pedal travel, and the effort would increase. And the kit you linked to says 7/8" bore, which would give you less pedal travel, but be easier to push. You have to consider the bore of the master and the slave together. I think the 0.75 slave is a good match for the malwood master.

The kit I have uses this mounting bracket that requires you drill 2 holes in your bell housing to bolt it in place. https://www.moderndriveline.com/sho...t-t-5-tko-for-79-93-sbf-aluminum-bellhousing/

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Thank you. Is there enough space to drill said holes with the transmission in the car?

tony-muscle said:

Thank you. Is there enough space to drill said holes with the transmission in the car?

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You maybe could do it if you used a right angle drill like the milwaukee 2505. I've gotten that guy into some really tight spots before with a step bit. But i would not attempt it for this. You'd end up with all the aluminum shavings inside your bell housing with the moving parts related to the clutch and starter.

giantpune said:

You maybe could do it if you used a right angle drill like the milwaukee 2505. I've gotten that guy into some really tight spots before with a step bit. But i would not attempt it for this. You'd end up with all the aluminum shavings inside your bell housing with the moving parts related to the clutch and starter.

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Call them the should be able to answer your questions.

Short answer is it depends on the slave at the trans and the fork setup.