AUTOMATIC to MANUAL Conversion parts list

[GERMYS_72]

I will be swapping out an FMX automatic, with a 4 speed Toploader soon. The 4speed is already bolted to the bell/housing and engine with the clutch inside.

I've read through the forum, What else will I need besides the following:

• Longer speedometer cable
• New Clutch Pedal/Brake Assembly
• Transmission to Frame bracket from C6

Any other tips and part numbers will help.

 

[Sheriff41]

The driver's side exhaust manifold on the 70 engine you are getting is different than what was used on the 71-73 engines. You may need to replace it if it interferes with the clutch linkage.

Obviously, you'll need a shifter boot, too.

 

[giantpune]

Are you going with OEM style install or aftermarket/restomod?

You will need a jumper or to somehow bypass the neutral safety switch.
Wire reverse lights up to transmission.
Not sure about your 72. There may be a lockout rod that connects the transmission to the steering column. It allows the shifter to decide when you can and cannot turn the key. When converting from auto to manual, it is common to wire the part on the steering column up into place.
Starter for Auto is different than manual.
Pilot bearing
Not sure about the block separator plate. It does need to be swapped when going between some transmissions.
Drive shaft may need resized/replaced

 

[351c1971]

If stock: equalizer (“Z”) bar with 2 springs, 2 rods, motor bracket, frame bracket and release fork.

 

[GERMYS_72]

Are you going with OEM style install or aftermarket/restomod?

You will need a jumper or to somehow bypass the neutral safety switch.
Wire reverse lights up to transmission.
Not sure about your 72. There may be a lockout rod that connects the transmission to the steering column. It allows the shifter to decide when you can and cannot turn the key. When converting from auto to manual, it is common to wire the part on the steering column up into place.
Starter for Auto is different than manual.
Pilot bearing
Not sure about the block separator plate. It does need to be swapped when going between some transmissions.
Drive shaft may need resized/replaced

Great info. OEM as much as possible, but the engine I bought is from a 1970 Mach 1. the engine/seperator/bell housing/pilot bearing/transmission is all together, and the starter is there too. I assume this conversion has been done by a bunch of people already.

Yes my shifter has to be in park before the steering column will turn the key, so I'll have to sort that out, and the neutral safety switch, and the backup lights.

 

[GERMYS_72]

The driver's side exhaust manifold on the 70 engine you are getting is different than what was used on the 71-73 engines. You may need to replace it if it interferes with the clutch linkage.

Obviously, you'll need a shifter boot, too.

Ok, thanks Chuck. I'll look out for that issue.

 

[351c1971]

Here is a picture of the stock parts.

 

[GERMYS_72]

Here is a picture of the stock parts.View attachment 86998

Awesome.

 

[351c1971]

I have had quality problems with several brands of aftermarket clutch kits and now only use Centerforce products.

 

[boilermaster]

GERMYS 72.
You did not state if your pedals are OEM or aftermarket, the brake light switch could cause grief, they are different from power to non power brakes, just know what brakes your donor had, weather it be OEM or aftermarket.
The difference is in the height. of the attachment rod, which makes a difference in what switch you need.
If you are running lots of power, consider running roller bearings in both the pedal hanger as well as the Z bar.
If running a heavy pressure plate, also consider a diaphragm style pressure plate and over center spring, Centerforce makes a plate and release bearing for our applications, your left leg may appreciate this.
Boilermaster

 

[351c1971]

My Mustang originally had a FMX. The frame rails did have the treaded inserts in the frame rail for the equalizer bar mount.

 

[kcmash]

Don't forget about the steering column firewall seal.

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/d1zz-3513-a.html

 

[GERMYS_72]

The driver's side exhaust manifold on the 70 engine you are getting is different than what was used on the 71-73 engines. You may need to replace it if it interferes with the clutch linkage.

Obviously, you'll need a shifter boo

I will be swapping out an FMX automatic, with a 4 speed Toploader soon. The 4speed is already bolted to the bell/housing and engine with the clutch inside.

I've read through the forum, What else will I need besides the following:

• Longer speedometer cable
• New Clutch Pedal/Brake Assembly
• Transmission to Frame bracket from C6

Any other tips and part numbers will help

thanks everyone for the info, keep it coming. I will process and distill this information in a subsequent reply for others to read. It is a bit more complicated than I thought at first. The gentleman selling me the engine is going to swap out the 1970 Driver's side Exhaust manifold and slap on the correct 4V from a 1973 351C to avoid Clutch linkage inteference, so I dodged that bullet already.

 

[Sheriff41]

If you haven't already, get yourself a copy (digital or paper) of the 1972 Ford Shop Manual set. It provides illustrations and has the procedures you'll need in easy-to-understand language.

 

[Hemikiller]

The trans crossmember you need is the "four leg" unit from a C-4 or manual transmission car. For some reason, parts places think these are made of gold, when it's the most common crossmember used.

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.c...1971-1973-Ford-Mustang.html?sessionthemeid=26

The clutch fork for whatever that came out of will not work on a 71-73. You need C8AA-7515-B.

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c8az-7515-b.html

The tailhousing on that transmission is a forward located Fairlane/Torino type, not the rearward mount for a Mustang. You can swap the tail, or get an adapter plate to move the location back. You'll also need the correct shifter.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/manual-transmission-shifter-mounting-plate/106067/203241?year=1973

 

[GERMYS_72]

Wow, great insight HemiKiller. Won't I also need to change the shift linkages ? they look completely different

 

[GERMYS_72]

The trans crossmember you need is the "four leg" unit from a C-4 or manual transmission car. For some reason, parts places think these are made of gold, when it's the most common crossmember used.

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.c...1971-1973-Ford-Mustang.html?sessionthemeid=26

The clutch fork for whatever that came out of will not work on a 71-73. You need C8AA-7515-B.

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c8az-7515-b.html

The tailhousing on that transmission is a forward located Fairlane/Torino type, not the rearward mount for a Mustang. You can swap the tail, or get an adapter plate to move the location back. You'll also need the correct shifter.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/manual-transmission-shifter-mounting-plate/106067/203241?year=1973

View attachment 87034

$44 on Ebay for the crossmember

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1161100680...vamPFWgC8zscHOF4IwWO6UQnMJ|tkp:Bk9SR9rX6dfOYw

 

[351c1971]

The good news is that this cross member works with both single and dual exhausts.

 

[Bill Kanode]

thanks everyone for the info, keep it coming. I will process and distill this information in a subsequent reply for others to read. It is a bit more complicated than I thought at first. The gentleman selling me the engine is going to swap out the 1970 Driver's side Exhaust manifold and slap on the correct 4V from a 1973 351C to avoid Clutch linkage inteference, so I dodged that bullet already.

I am also swapping my FMX for a toploader and have installed the Scott Drake needle bearing changeover as there was not mounting supports for the Modern Driveline clutch pedal. I am also using a diaphragm clutch plate. I found a hydraulic clutch bell housing from a F150 to rig up a different release system. I hope that I am not opening up a can of worms to cause problems. Any ideas would be welcome. My car is a 1971 351C fastback which I am also restoring. Thx, Bill "Obi One"Kanode

 

[Hemikiller]

$44 on Ebay for the crossmember

https://www.ebay.com/itm/116110068046?itmmeta=01HSTQTDF7128XRXQTMKNKEANF&hash=item1b08b3094e:g:JHAAAOSwphBl9zMu&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA4CF1rgs0W7sUxtA3BMNfPRHZSahU0B05IBZRk2HiOiQyzdlbbG+TxAjeyOPul6zSqDnQ0IWbshNrFQgkrQj9Nfp6BVpieIAhCVUfM9EJ3fGEdy1kzzd44Z4vXFWKaDlqRiCopgXEFuzZ5DJ1bkyVRdL5nFjdgOLQmPltwdt5iBhCSXQhLDqlSzLD2/PsAn2r9MkFD1rt0bf+10Ay1fZvwRaYRM7WgIK7ivINxi8If8sW3AWB51QOEiT+LTYgUcQW5Y+wT7O6rpRzFOmmbqvamPFWgC8zscHOF4IwWO6UQnMJ|tkp:Bk9SR9rX6dfOYw

That's for a 67-70. Can't tell you if it'll work for a 71-73