AUTOMATIC to MANUAL Conversion parts list

[GERMYS_72]

If stock: equalizer (“Z”) bar with 2 springs, 2 rods, motor bracket, frame bracket and release fork.

What do you mean by motor bracket and frame bracket ?

Check this out. It looks like it has everything.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2761519249...Ty20SUVHgzrqLUhcEFAfpLm2I=|tkp:Bk9SR4b31d3OYw

 

[GERMYS_72]

That's for a 67-70. Can't tell you if it'll work for a 71-73

I will get this one, and then I will hire a full time security guard to watch my Crossmember (Or weld it onto the car)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144697780230

 

[GERMYS_72]

I am also swapping my FMX for a toploader and have installed the Scott Drake needle bearing changeover as there was not mounting supports for the Modern Driveline clutch pedal. I am also using a diaphragm clutch plate. I found a hydraulic clutch bell housing from a F150 to rig up a different release system. I hope that I am not opening up a can of worms to cause problems. Any ideas would be welcome. My car is a 1971 351C fastback which I am also restoring. Thx, Bill "Obi One"Kanode

Thanks Bill, I might just bite the bullet and get the OEM clutch/Brake hanger correct for the car and save the hassle of aftermarket build.

 

[GERMYS_72]

I once changed the clutch on a 1989 Honda Prelude and I also changed out an automatic Transmission on a 1998 Honda prelude, and somehow that gives me license to attempt this conversion on my mustang. I’m probably in over my head. Here are the notes I have so far for this swap. Thanks everyone, keep it coming.


-ENGINE

Driver’s side exhaust manifold from 71-73 351C (already got it covered)


-CLUTCH HOOKUP

Hangar and pedals for a power brake car (mine has Power disc)
Equalizer bar with both side mounting brackets, (frame should already have threaded inserts)
firewall rod
clutch fork push rod
Clutch fork C8AA-7515-B
Transmission Crossmember D1ZZ-6A023-B. (the $350 one)
steering column lock out rod
steering column firewall seal
Jump /bypass the neutral safety switch so it’s always in neutral
Wire backup Lights to new transmission
LONGER speedometer cable

-TRANSMISSION

Fairlane to Mustang Adaptor plate on the 4sp toploader
Mustang 4sp toploader Shift linkages
SHIFTER and boot
72 SHOP MANUAL


-Potential Upgrade (Centerforce pressure plate and release bearing)

 

[Stanglover]

GERMYS 72,
As my car was always a 4 speed manual, I can't add much to the question except add what I did to make my car more drivable and enjoyable.
1) Clutch shaft bearings in the hanger bracket; I chose the bearing kit sold by Mustang Steve. This is a ball bearing type. However, to be honest and as a machinist, I could just as easily made it myself. One thing to watch for is the draft angle in the bracket. I needed to grind the bearing carriers to compensate and keep the bearing centers in line. Once welded on, this alone took many pounds off the force needed to push the clutch pedal.
2) Next I reworked all the linkage rod plastic bushes to Oilite bronze bushes. Again though, this took a bit of machining to do it properly, but I highly recommend this upgrade.
3) The "Z" bar just needed to be cleaned and regreased with new felt seals. The "bearings" are molded plastic and were in good condition so I saw no need to rework that area.
I wish I'd taken pics as I went through this, but I didn't!!
For the clutch, I had installed a Centerforce II with a roller pilot bearing. The clutch throw-out bearing replacement didn't last long. A spring clip broke off that holds the bearing to the fork. I went back to the original Ford cast carrier with a new bearing bought from the local bearing supply dealer. It's a common bearing, nothing special.
The flywheel was the original that was reground. I did need to have the ring gear replaced though.
Personally I'd stay away from Scot Drake stuff. I've had trouble with the quality and fit of some of their parts. That of course is my opinion, do as you wish.
The shifter is Hurst and I sent that to www.Hurstshiftersonline for a professional rebuild, they did a great job, but not cheap. All the shift linkage bushings are available from NPD and others.
There is NO lower shifter boot for our cars. The 1970 does not fit. The upper shifter boot is available from NPD etc., but is not an exact repop. Depending on the shift lever you get, it will have either a rectangular or round hole. The 72 ought to be a round shifter.
More later if needed when it comes to fitting into the tunnel and console type.

EDIT 1: it seems I have the wrong web address for the Hurst shifter rebuild.
EDIT 2: here is a pic pdf showing the type of bronze bushing used. If I remember you need 3/8 id. Also if you have or will use a diaphragm style clutch and depending on the hanger bracket you get, the original had a heavy helper spring that will need to be removed. I also installed an adjustable stop to set my pedal height. Pdf is a bit rough, but shows what I mean.

 

[crvscott]

I will be swapping out an FMX automatic, with a 4 speed Toploader soon. The 4speed is already bolted to the bell/housing and engine with the clutch inside.

I've read through the forum, What else will I need besides the following:

• Longer speedometer cable
• New Clutch Pedal/Brake Assembly
• Transmission to Frame bracket from C6

Any other tips and part numbers will help.

I hate to bust your bubble , but. You have a toploader from a torino. Not a mustang. The difference is the tailshaft shifter mounting location is farther forward that what a mustang uses.

 

[Stanglover]

I hate to bust your bubble , but. You have a toploader from a torino. Not a mustang. The difference is the tailshaft shifter mounting location is farther forward that what a mustang uses.

Hemikiller already addressed that problem in post #15. The OP knows that already.

 

[GERMYS_72]

I hate to bust your bubble , but. You have a toploader from a torino. Not a mustang. The difference is the tailshaft shifter mounting location is farther forward that what a mustang uses.

thanks anyway for commenting. If Hemikiller had not chimed in already this would have helped me or someone else out

 

[rcadd1ct]

I am also swapping my FMX for a toploader and have installed the Scott Drake needle bearing changeover as there was not mounting supports for the Modern Driveline clutch pedal. I am also using a diaphragm clutch plate. I found a hydraulic clutch bell housing from a F150 to rig up a different release system. I hope that I am not opening up a can of worms to cause problems. Any ideas would be welcome. My car is a 1971 351C fastback which I am also restoring. Thx, Bill "Obi One"Kanode

Is it a hydraulic pedal?

If so you can use a hydraulic throw out bearing and the bell housing doesn’t need to connect to the clutch fork or Z bar

 

[Hemikiller]

Backup light harness - replaces the NSS.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/extension-wire-back-up-light-switch/102124/203279?year=1972

If you want to go hydraulic, the Malwood pedal kit seems to work well from what I've read. The final cost will be similar to buying the complete pedal and z-bar setup.

 

[GERMYS_72]

Backup light harness - replaces the NSS.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/extension-wire-back-up-light-switch/102124/203279?year=1972

If you want to go hydraulic, the Malwood pedal kit seems to work well from what I've read. The final cost will be similar to buying the complete pedal and z-bar setup.

The complete pedals for Disc Brake, plus firewall bracket and z bar is $1000 on Ebay. OEM from a manual 1971. How much difference in pressure between OEM clutch pedeal and hydraulic clutch, and does that Malwood bolt up to the existing hardware in the automatic ?

 

[giantpune]

The complete pedals for Disc Brake, plus firewall bracket and z bar is $1000 on Ebay. OEM from a manual 1971. How much difference in pressure between OEM clutch pedeal and hydraulic clutch, and does that Malwood bolt up to the existing hardware in the automatic ?

I have the malwood hydraulic setup. Between z-bar, cable, and hydraulic, the hydraulic is definitely the nicest feeling. Z-bar was 1970s tech, cable was 1980s tech, and hydraulic is what is on most production cars. Only reason I didn't suggest it earlier is because you said you wanted to stay with OEM style setup. The hydraulic setup is definitely not that. You can play with different size bores for the slave cylinder to get different pedal feels for pressure and travel.

The malwood kit does not just bolt right up to the automatic pedals. The holes in the automatic hanger are oblong and oversized. You need something to make them smaller and circular. Welding a couple washers on the sides of the pedal support is enough. Also, a small chunk of the automatic pedal support needs cut out of the left side. And the big wide brake pedal from the automatic needs to be cut in half to make room for the clutch pedal.

 

[GERMYS_72]

I have the malwood hydraulic setup. Between z-bar, cable, and hydraulic, the hydraulic is definitely the nicest feeling. Z-bar was 1970s tech, cable was 1980s tech, and hydraulic is what is on most production cars. Only reason I didn't suggest it earlier is because you said you wanted to stay with OEM style setup. The hydraulic setup is definitely not that. You can play with different size bores for the slave cylinder to get different pedal feels for pressure and travel.

The malwood kit does not just bolt right up to the automatic pedals. The holes in the automatic hanger are oblong and oversized. You need something to make them smaller and circular. Welding a couple washers on the sides of the pedal support is enough. Also, a small chunk of the automatic pedal support needs cut out of the left side. And the big wide brake pedal from the automatic needs to be cut in half to make room for the clutch pedal.

Very helpful. Do you also have to drill holes in the bell housing for the two hydraulic cables to run into the throwout bearing ?

 

[giantpune]

Very helpful. Do you also have to drill holes in the bell housing for the two hydraulic cables to run into the throwout bearing ?

I used an external slave cylinder. I can't speak for which internal slave cylinder you're looking at. But in your picture of the engine and transmission sitting on the pallet, there's a big square hole in the side of the bellhousing with what looks like the fork sticking out. With an internal slave, you wont need that fork. I would assume that you could remove that and run your 2 lines out through that big hole.

 

[Sheriff41]

https://4speedtoploaders.com/store/tailhousings.html

 

[rcadd1ct]

Very helpful. Do you also have to drill holes in the bell housing for the two hydraulic cables to run into the throwout bearing ?

No. I used where the clutch fork went through

I used the Scott Drake roller brake conversion to upgrade my pedal box for the malwood.

I had the most issues with the Scott Drake part. The big washer was too thick. I had to thin it on a belt sander so the circlip would engage.

I extended the bleed line up as high as it would go. Added a speed bleeder. When I bleed it I add a line back to the reservoir.

Once bleed I lock the speed bleeder, wrap the fitting to catch the extra fluid as I pull the temp bleeding hose off.

Again I am using a McLeod hydraulic throw out bearing. Replaces the trans input shaft cover.

 

[GERMYS_72]

No. I used where the clutch fork went through

I used the Scott Drake roller brake conversion to upgrade my pedal box for the malwood.

I had the most issues with the Scott Drake part. The big washer was too thick. I had to thin it on a belt sander so the circlip would engage.

I extended the bleed line up as high as it would go. Added a speed bleeder. When I bleed it I add a line back to the reservoir.

Once bleed I lock the speed bleeder, wrap the fitting to catch the extra fluid as I pull the temp bleeding hose off.

Again I am using a McLeod hydraulic throw out bearing. Replaces the trans input shaft cover.

really great info. I will study this.

 

[rcadd1ct]

really great info. I will study this.

Thanks

Only other thing is you will need to fab a pedal stop so you don’t over extend the skate cylinder or throw out bearing

 

[GERMYS_72]

Thanks

Only other thing is you will need to fab a pedal stop so you don’t over extend the skate cylinder or throw out bearing

ok. Do you also have a backup light harness plugged into the old Neutral switch plug under dash, and routed to a switch on the transmission ?

 

[giantpune]

I used the Scott Drake roller brake conversion to upgrade my pedal box for the malwood.

I did this same thing based on the advice of others. Then once I was half way through it, I realized that the roller bearing becomes useless. Nothing ends up rolling on the roller bearing. The kit just acts as an overpriced and complicated spacer.