GERMYS 72,
As my car was always a 4 speed manual, I can't add much to the question except add what I did to make my car more drivable and enjoyable.
1) Clutch shaft bearings in the hanger bracket; I chose the bearing kit sold by Mustang Steve. This is a ball bearing type. However, to be honest and as a machinist, I could just as easily made it myself.
One thing to watch for is the draft angle in the bracket. I needed to grind the bearing carriers to compensate and keep the bearing centers in line. Once welded on, this alone took many pounds off the force needed to push the clutch pedal.
2) Next I reworked all the linkage rod plastic bushes to Oilite bronze bushes. Again though, this took a bit of machining to do it properly, but I highly recommend this upgrade.
3) The "Z" bar just needed to be cleaned and regreased with new felt seals. The "bearings" are molded plastic and were in good condition so I saw no need to rework that area.
I wish I'd taken pics as I went through this, but I didn't!!
For the clutch, I had installed a Centerforce II with a roller pilot bearing. The clutch throw-out bearing replacement didn't last long. A spring clip broke off that holds the bearing to the fork. I went back to the original Ford cast carrier with a new bearing bought from the local bearing supply dealer. It's a common bearing, nothing special.
The flywheel was the original that was reground. I did need to have the ring gear replaced though.
Personally I'd stay away from Scot Drake stuff. I've had trouble with the quality and fit of some of their parts. That of course is my opinion, do as you wish.
The shifter is Hurst and I sent that to
www.Hurstshiftersonline for a professional rebuild, they did a great job, but not cheap. All the shift linkage bushings are available from NPD and others.
There is NO lower shifter boot for our cars. The 1970 does not fit. The upper shifter boot is available from NPD etc., but is not an exact repop. Depending on the shift lever you get, it will have either a rectangular or round hole. The 72 ought to be a round shifter.
More later if needed when it comes to fitting into the tunnel and console type.
EDIT 1: it seems I have the wrong web address for the Hurst shifter rebuild.
EDIT 2: here is a pic pdf showing the type of bronze bushing used. If I remember you need 3/8 id. Also if you have or will use a diaphragm style clutch and depending on the hanger bracket you get, the original had a heavy helper spring that will need to be removed. I also installed an adjustable stop to set my pedal height. Pdf is a bit rough, but shows what I mean.
