AUTOMATIC to MANUAL Conversion parts list

[351c1971]

If I remember correctly, the speedo driven gears are different for the automatic vs manual transmission you might want to check on this as well.

 

[GERMYS_72]

I agree 100%. I did the stock "Z" bar manual conversion with my "H" code 351c. Petal effort with the 11" Centerforce I clutch is actually less than the hydraulic clutch in my 2013 Mustang 3.7 L v6 six speed

I agree 100%. I did the stock "Z" bar manual conversion with my "H" code 351c. Petal effort with the 11" Centerforce I clutch is actually less than the hydraulic clutch in my 2013 Mustang 3.7 L v6 six speed

351c1971, diving into the nitty gritty between the flywheel and the clutch fork. Assuming the flywheel is in good shape, does this look like the correct part list ? Any suggestions on pilot bearing ? Could I see potential interference between this pressure plate and my toploader bell housing ? <p>

 

[351c1971]

Those look like the same clutch parts that I have. I also have the RAM aftermarket flywheel and an aluminum bellhousing from a 1972 Mustang with a 302 and 3 speed toploader. I had no interference with the aluminum bellhousing, which is the same one used on the Boss 302. Not sure about interference with the cast iron bellhousing, perhaps others in the forum have experience with the cast iron bellhousing

 

[Hemikiller]

You don't need a $500 clutch for a stock M-code engine. A stock 11" Long style is plenty strong.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6083394&cc=1132692&pt=1993&jsn=1040

Or, you can use the same clutch I have, that held well enough to snap my input.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6358029&cc=1132692&pt=1993&jsn=1052

 

[GERMYS_72]

You don't need a $500 clutch for a stock M-code engine. A stock 11" Long style is plenty strong.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6083394&cc=1132692&pt=1993&jsn=1040

Or, you can use the same clutch I have, that held well enough to snap my input.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6358029&cc=1132692&pt=1993&jsn=1052

I like that price alot better! I was mainly interested in the lighter pedal feel of the centerforce, but it looks like that centerforce setup will not work with my cast iron bell housing anyhow.

 

[GERMYS_72]

Here is the link for the bronze bushings on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C736B5S2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got my pedal assembly from Colorado Mustang and the brass bushings. The only place I could find with a nylon bushing is one side of the pedal rod.

 

[rcadd1ct]

I got my pedal assembly from Colorado Mustang and the brass bushings. The only place I could find with a nylon bushing is one side of the pedal rod. View attachment 87672

Pedals pivot on the nylon bushings factory. You would have to take the pedal assembly apart

 

[GERMYS_72]

GERMYS 72,
As my car was always a 4 speed manual, I can't add much to the question except add what I did to make my car more drivable and enjoyable.
1) Clutch shaft bearings in the hanger bracket; I chose the bearing kit sold by Mustang Steve. This is a ball bearing type. However, to be honest and as a machinist, I could just as easily made it myself. One thing to watch for is the draft angle in the bracket. I needed to grind the bearing carriers to compensate and keep the bearing centers in line. Once welded on, this alone took many pounds off the force needed to push the clutch pedal.
2) Next I reworked all the linkage rod plastic bushes to Oilite bronze bushes. Again though, this took a bit of machining to do it properly, but I highly recommend this upgrade.
3) The "Z" bar just needed to be cleaned and regreased with new felt seals. The "bearings" are molded plastic and were in good condition so I saw no need to rework that area.
I wish I'd taken pics as I went through this, but I didn't!!
For the clutch, I had installed a Centerforce II with a roller pilot bearing. The clutch throw-out bearing replacement didn't last long. A spring clip broke off that holds the bearing to the fork. I went back to the original Ford cast carrier with a new bearing bought from the local bearing supply dealer. It's a common bearing, nothing special.
The flywheel was the original that was reground. I did need to have the ring gear replaced though.
Personally I'd stay away from Scot Drake stuff. I've had trouble with the quality and fit of some of their parts. That of course is my opinion, do as you wish.
The shifter is Hurst and I sent that to www.Hurstshiftersonline for a professional rebuild, they did a great job, but not cheap. All the shift linkage bushings are available from NPD and others.
There is NO lower shifter boot for our cars. The 1970 does not fit. The upper shifter boot is available from NPD etc., but is not an exact repop. Depending on the shift lever you get, it will have either a rectangular or round hole. The 72 ought to be a round shifter.
More later if needed when it comes to fitting into the tunnel and console type.

EDIT 1: it seems I have the wrong web address for the Hurst shifter rebuild.
EDIT 2: here is a pic pdf showing the type of bronze bushing used. If I remember you need 3/8 id. Also if you have or will use a diaphragm style clutch and depending on the hanger bracket you get, the original had a heavy helper spring that will need to be removed. I also installed an adjustable stop to set my pedal height. Pdf is a bit rough, but shows what I mean.

It seems worthwhile to do the mustang steve bearing swap while the pedal assembly is off the car. What do you mean by draft angle ? Is it better to tack the bearing housings on first and adjust them to dead center before finishing the weld. Any concern about burning through the assembly ?



The Zbar has a felt washer on one side ( haven't opened that side yet), and a plastic/rubber bushing on the other end. Any reason to replace this stuff now ?
I think you said you put on zerks to grease them, but in the hot texas heat I would be concerned with the grease dripping out into the floorboard like it does out of my grease gun.

 

[Stanglover]

It seems worthwhile to do the mustang steve bearing swap while the pedal assembly is off the car. What do you mean by draft angle ? Is it better to tack the bearing housings on first and adjust them to dead center before finishing the weld. Any concern about burning through the assembly ?
View attachment 87700


The Zbar has a felt washer on one side ( haven't opened that side yet), and a plastic/rubber bushing on the other end. Any reason to replace this stuff now ?
I think you said you put on zerks to grease them, but in the hot texas heat I would be concerned with the grease dripping out into the floorboard like it does out of my grease gun.


View attachment 87701

On the pedal bracket, they have to add a slight draft angle on the part or it would stick on the press die. There might be some variation from one bracket to another due to "spring" in the metal stamping. On mine, it was enough to need me to grind the bearing carriers to offset that angle and keep the bearings aligned. I would definitely tack the carriers and check alignment first to ensure smooth operation of the clutch shaft. Do not hard weld the carriers with bearing installed. No worry about burning through as long as you have your welder set correctly.
I did not install zerk fittings to the Z bar, just checked and regreased them with new felt seals. The oilite bronze bushing installed at all other possible locations including the fork push rod pivot.
If there is that big helper spring still installed, seem in the diagrams, remove it ONLY if you are going to install a newer diaphragm style clutch like a Centerforce.
Hope that helps.

 

[Stanglover]

Just edited that post.

 

[giantpune]

On the pedal bracket, they have to add a slight draft angle on the part or it would stick on the press die. There might be some variation from one bracket to another due to "spring" in the metal stamping. On mine, it was enough to need me to grind the bearing carriers to offset that angle and keep the bearings aligned. I would definitely tack the carriers and check alignment first to ensure smooth operation of the clutch shaft. Do not hard weld the carriers with bearing installed. No worry about burning through as long as you have your welder set correctly.
I did not install zerk fittings to the Z bar, just checked and regreased them with new felt seals. The oilite bronze bushing installed at all other possible locations including the fork push rod pivot.
If there is that big helper spring still installed, seem in the diagrams, remove it ONLY if you are going to install a newer diaphragm style clutch like a Centerforce.
Hope that helps.

I had to grind the washers when I did mine, too. I held each washer in a pair of vice grips and hit it with the flapper wheel on an angle grinder. IDK if I'm just that bad of a welder than I have so much practice with the angle grinder, but it only took me like 5 minutes total to get both sides fitted.

 

[GERMYS_72]

I was lucky enough to snag a RUG-BJ1 this morning to put behind the 351C D0AE, so I will be selling the RUG-AR1 (torino/fairlane). Now, I will be trying to hunt down the correct Hurst shifter rod/levers.