AUTOMATIC to MANUAL Conversion parts list

[rcadd1ct]

ok. Do you also have a backup light harness plugged into the old Neutral switch plug under dash, and routed to a switch on the transmission ?

Switch off shifter, but I rewired the entire car with American autowire.

 

[Bobby]

As I had mentioned in previous posts, I am also contemplating converting to a 4 speed toploader. One of the things I am having a problem with is wanting to go with a clutch cable instead of the z-bar monstrosity. This system is very complicated with an array of levers, bushings springs and do-dads to make it work and I might just be chasing my tail trying to find all the parts if I tried. I've read where the factory z-bar doesn't work well to begin with. The only available cable is designed for the T-5 conversion. I briefly purchased this cable system to see how it would fit to the toploader bell housing......which the cover did not. I would have to have a new cover fabricated or the one provided extensively modified......provided I can find a fab shop to do the work, Can anyone help find a solution to this?

 

[GERMYS_72]

As I had mentioned in previous posts, I am also contemplating converting to a 4 speed toploader. One of the things I am having a problem with is wanting to go with a clutch cable instead of the z-bar monstrosity. This system is very complicated with an array of levers, bushings springs and do-dads to make it work and I might just be chasing my tail trying to find all the parts if I tried. I've read where the factory z-bar doesn't work well to begin with. The only available cable is designed for the T-5 conversion. I briefly purchased this cable system to see how it would fit to the toploader bell housing......which the cover did not. I would have to have a new cover fabricated or the one provided extensively modified......provided I can find a fab shop to do the work, Can anyone help find a solution to this?

hi Bobby, Sick setup man. I would be tempted not to mess anymore with your car. User rcadd1ct seems to know a lot about this subject, I'm probably going to message with more questions. I'm leaning toward converting to original factory setup with Zbar and then adding upgrades from there since it's easier to wrap my brain around. pondering this complete setup for a measly grand. https://www.ebay.com/itm/276151924907?itmmeta=01HSTXNFDYG8GKPA2W2BXH4EXY&hash=item404beff8ab:g:GZEAAOSwmxNlSTnj&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA0Gt1WKI0ambtDu34U0HDz+Kyg9l5KXA9yaEL91pnp1nyRL8sEUbThY87pSLwLYerk5+NHHyIUjrmlTcQ4rqiRSHNe7dkqGOaayMm3EPUYPj2Vie0JtxsQELx0Ef0hCydQHEBNlA5IaCnIVDY1Zi3p7bxmlEekpgyzMH8m1W8vMru7J2PbdKAqN1m5SlVfVowXzjQq4dj0yBlts5M0XMuBY7UKt99fawA5VPXwXEN+gdFyeoECQ9r1tZZv6eT+UTy20SUVHgzrqLUhcEFAfpLm2I=|tkp:Bk9SR4b31d3OYw&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=&campid=5338413729&toolid=10001&mpt=58875

 

[GERMYS_72]

I used an external slave cylinder. I can't speak for which internal slave cylinder you're looking at. But in your picture of the engine and transmission sitting on the pallet, there's a big square hole in the side of the bellhousing with what looks like the fork sticking out. With an internal slave, you wont need that fork. I would assume that you could remove that and run your 2 lines out through that big hole.

Here are a few more close ups of the bell housing as of right now.

 

[rcadd1ct]

As I had mentioned in previous posts, I am also contemplating converting to a 4 speed toploader. One of the things I am having a problem with is wanting to go with a clutch cable instead of the z-bar monstrosity. This system is very complicated with an array of levers, bushings springs and do-dads to make it work and I might just be chasing my tail trying to find all the parts if I tried. I've read where the factory z-bar doesn't work well to begin with. The only available cable is designed for the T-5 conversion. I briefly purchased this cable system to see how it would fit to the toploader bell housing......which the cover did not. I would have to have a new cover fabricated or the one provided extensively modified......provided I can find a fab shop to do the work, Can anyone help find a solution to this?

Like I mentioned in this thread I went malwood with a hydraulic throw out bearing.

We are here to help other enthusiasts to these great cars, but I am afraid your post will get lost in this thread.

I would suggest you start your own thread and we can help you with your specific issues

 

[GERMYS_72]

I went ahead and picked up that complete OEM Pedal kit from Colorado Mustang. Mark cut me solid deal. One step closer.

 

[Hemikiller]

The z-bar works fine, been running them in my cars since 1992, when I did my first auto to 4 speed conversion in a friend's garage. Z-bars don't work well when things are worn out, hacked up or installed incorrectly. Adding a factory linkage is cake these days, almost all of it is reproduced. About the only thing that isn't is the clutch fork, which isn't hard to find.

The only "issue" is headers, which for the 351C isn't a problem as the Hooker 6915 (4V) and 6921 (2V) clear just fine. 302s can use the reproduction Tri-Y from SD or eBay. The Hooker 429CJ headers are designed to clear the linkage.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Count me as a fan of the factory Zbar setup also. Simply Bronze bush the few contact points or occasionally inspect/grease those factory nylon bushings. I believe the factory Zbar setup offers superior "feel" and crisp gear shifts. It's by far the simplest to setup. Give the contact points a shot of lubricant once a year and you have a 100% trouble free great performing clutch linkage. For ease of maintenance, I installed a zerk fitting in the Zbar tube making it simple to lube It's inner bushings. No clearance issues with big 3 1/2" collectors.

 

[GERMYS_72]

The z-bar works fine, been running them in my cars since 1992, when I did my first auto to 4 speed conversion in a friend's garage. Z-bars don't work well when things are worn out, hacked up or installed incorrectly. Adding a factory linkage is cake these days, almost all of it is reproduced. About the only thing that isn't is the clutch fork, which isn't hard to find.

The only "issue" is headers, which for the 351C isn't a problem as the Hooker 6915 (4V) and 6921 (2V) clear just fine. 302s can use the reproduction Tri-Y from SD or eBay. The Hooker 429CJ headers are designed to clear the linkage.

So likely I would need hooker 6915, and can't make the stock headers work ?

 

[Hemikiller]

So likely I would need hooker 6915, and can't make the stock headers work ?

Stock 71-73 4V manifolds will work fine, as they were designed to clear the factory z-bar. If you have the 70 manifolds, the passenger will work, you need to get the correct driver's side. The angle of the outlet will put the pipe directly into the z-bar.


1970 4V D/S manifold



1971-73 4V D/S manifold

 

[GERMYS_72]

Stock 71-73 4V manifolds will work fine, as they were designed to clear the factory z-bar. If you have the 70 manifolds, the passenger will work, you need to get the correct driver's side. The angle of the outlet will put the pipe directly into the z-bar.


1970 4V D/S manifold

View attachment 87407

1971-73 4V D/S manifold

View attachment 87408

Ok thanks clarifying. I do have the 71 driver's side.

 

[351c1971]

I agree 100%. I did the stock "Z" bar manual conversion with my "H" code 351c. Petal effort with the 11" Centerforce I clutch is actually less than the hydraulic clutch in my 2013 Mustang 3.7 L v6 six speed

 

[giantpune]

I agree 100%. I did the stock "Z" bar manual conversion with my "H" code 351c. Petal effort with the 11" Centerforce I clutch is actually less than the hydraulic clutch in my 2013 Mustang 3.7 L v6 six speed

Pedal effort with hydraulic setup is easily tunable, though. Different size cylinders for the master and slave, and you can tweak the pedal effort however you want it.

 

[351c1971]

Count me as a fan of the factory Zbar setup also. Simply Bronze bush the few contact points or occasionally inspect/grease those factory nylon bushings. I believe the factory Zbar setup offers superior "feel" and crisp gear shifts. It's by far the simplest to setup. Give the contact points a shot of lubricant once a year and you have a 100% trouble free great performing clutch linkage. For ease of maintenance, I installed a zerk fitting in the Zbar tube making it simple to lube It's inner bushings. No clearance issues with big 3 1/2" collectors.

Here is the link for the bronze bushings on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C736B5S2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[GERMYS_72]

Few more related questions as I compile parts.

Does anyone know the part number for the correct Speedometer cable for toploader ?

Would you be installing the engine and Bell housing into the car in one step, and then mount the toploader/w shifter into the engine as a 2nd step after the engine is already in the car ? it's seems unreleastic to install the Engine/bell/Toploader/w Shifter at one time.

 

[351c1971]

I used the existing speedo cable when I converted from FMX to 3sp Toploader.

 

[Hemikiller]

I've done it both ways. I prefer to drop it in with the transmission in place. With that tractor of yours, shouldn't be a problem as long as you have some finesse with the sticks.

NPD has the correct length speedometer cable.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/cable-and-housing-speedometer/102621/200426?year=1971

 

[GERMYS_72]

I've done it both ways. I prefer to drop it in with the transmission in place. With that tractor of yours, shouldn't be a problem as long as you have some finesse with the sticks.

NPD has the correct length speedometer cable.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/cable-and-housing-speedometer/102621/200426?year=1971

thanks. My tractor is rated to lift 1200 pounds but it was struggling with that 700lb drivetrain. Tipped me forward a bit. I will probably just need to get the 2Ton cherry picker

 

[Bill Kanode]

As I had mentioned in previous posts, I am also contemplating converting to a 4 speed toploader. One of the things I am having a problem with is wanting to go with a clutch cable instead of the z-bar monstrosity. This system is very complicated with an array of levers, bushings springs and do-dads to make it work and I might just be chasing my tail trying to find all the parts if I tried. I've read where the factory z-bar doesn't work well to begin with. The only available cable is designed for the T-5 conversion. I briefly purchased this cable system to see how it would fit to the toploader bell housing......which the cover did not. I would have to have a new cover fabricated or the one provided extensively modified......provided I can find a fab shop to do the work, Can anyone help find a solution to this?

In my change over I added the Scott Drake needle bearings to my automatic pedal assembly and installed the Modem Driveline clutch pedal and trimmed the automatic pedal pad as instructed.

 

[GERMYS_72]

Here is the link for the bronze bushings on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C736B5S2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ordered the bushings. I'm going to wait on the NPD speedometer cable mentioned below by HemiKiller, and see if the my current FMX cable will work first.