.040 cleveland temp.

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I run an aluminum water pump-high flow, a nice hefty aluminum griffin radiator and an electric fan and heat is not a problem even with AC and triple digit weather.

The .040 overbore is probably not the issue.

I would start with checking the ignition timing. Retarded timing at idle tends to push up the heat. Running the vac advance of engine instead of ported vacuum helps with this particular issue without having to set your timing to advanced

 
Are you sure the temp gauge is accurate and the engine is really overheating? I would not trust the stock gauges all the time, you can always get you a small aftermarket one and wire it into the engine under the hood just to check if it is overheating.

 
Dude.

Do you have a BYPASS in your block?

Do you have the proper thermostat- 351w does not equal 351c?

Search this site for RADIATOR BYPASS and make sure all is well in this often overlooked 351C feature.

There is NO reason for a .040 to overheat...unless you have no bypass or the wrong thermostat.

 
I got my original fan shroud still on my car...With flexi fan...never had a issue with over heating....still got original radiator too with a pin hole leak in it...and even still did not over heat in the hottest of summer's...and we get some hot 100+ summers where i live.....I agree with above posters...You should not have a heat issue.

 
Fox rad?

What fan shroud is the OP running?

I have seen a lot of really hokey things guys call "shrouds" that aren't really... um,... well, don't belong on cars.

Admittedly, most of those abortions I've seen are on dirt roundy-round cars. I kinda figured guys with $15-50K in their small blocks should know better, but that's another story I guess.

Depth of fan in the shroud is a concern, as is the gap between fan and shroud.

Don't overlook a bad radiator cap as well. I've been befuddled by that one before :(

They can leak pressure, lowering the coolant boiling point.

 
Fox rad?

What fan shroud is the OP running?

I have seen a lot of really hokey things guys call "shrouds" that aren't really... um,... well, don't belong on cars.

Admittedly, most of those abortions I've seen are on dirt roundy-round cars. I kinda figured guys with $15-50K in their small blocks should know better, but that's another story I guess.

Depth of fan in the shroud is a concern, as is the gap between fan and shroud.

Don't overlook a bad radiator cap as well. I've been befuddled by that one before :(

They can leak pressure, lowering the coolant boiling point.
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That's a great point about the radiator cap possibly being bad. Growing up, I [almost] had a '73 Satellite Sebring with a 318 that was over heating badly, and a new radiator cap solved it. But it wasn't just while idling...

 
Just keeping the scrap alive !!!
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I can honestly say that I've brought scrap back from the dead. And based on my starting point from Day 1, I believe that is a 100% completely honest statement. :D

OK, let's review:

  • Ditch the flex fan
  • Check the shroud
  • Check the radiator cap
  • Check the flow of the water pump
  • Check timing and spark plug heat range
  • Look into some Wetter Water-type products
  • Check the flow in the radiator - consider replacing with 3-core or EF-style
  • Check temps with a laser thermometer or something other than the gauge itself
  • Check the gauge for proper operation
  • Add a gap filler between the top/front of the radiator and core support
  • Add a lower radiator hose anti collapse spring
     


And finally - quit stopping and letting it idle... always keep moving (it's more fun that way, anyway). rofl

 
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you could keep going with lower rad hose anti collapse spring :D

 
Another .40 over clevland running cool.

Original AC fan shroud.

Original fan.

Stock radiator

Stock water pump

I have a small water leak so I often am up to a gallon low on coolant.

You might try pouring water on the radiator to see if that cools down the engine temp. If it does, you most likely either have a radiator or air flow issue.

 
Been working a bunch and not getting anything done on the mustang but some stripes and seats. Thanks for the info I see there a some sharp guys in here. The aluminum fox radiator was tried because I already know it will cool a 11:1 windsor. I had a new npd shroud that i had to trim just a bit to make it work and I do have a few air leaks that I think I can seal up. The fan moves a bunch of air if the motor is sped up to about 11-1200 rpm so I may look at pulleys or ditch that a try something else. I have the right thermostat with the hat on the bottom and looks like good circulation. I'm planning on a/c so it will have to cool well to make it with the a/c on. Any recommendations on a/c kits. This is a non a/c car so I have look at a few universal kits but open to suggestions. I would switch radiators if anyone has a suggestion on that they have used. This car is for my 19 yr old daughter so I hope to have it reliable and not overheating even in a drive thru. I have done dozens of windsors and chevys and heard the old thin block myths but I thought it should still cool ok with the right things in place. I just got done with a aod conversion and 3.73 gear and it runs great, if it says cool and has a/c she may have to fight for the keys.

 
I was running a griffin aluminum radiator with an electric fan and a milodon high volume water pump 4V CC lower compression stock bore engine with a solid lifter cam, headers and a 85 holle double pumper. RWHP on the dyno was 300 on a bad run. With the Cleveland stant 190 degree thermostat and Classic Auto Air retrofit AC I had no problems with heaat even in 100 degree weather running my 3.89

I dropped a valve, so it is all apart right now, but I did a thread on here on the radiator and waterpump you should be able to find it and it has photos and part numbers.

I had already gone electric and installed the AC before I found this site, but I was very happy with the Classic Auto Air Perfect Fit system for our cars

 
I was running a griffin aluminum radiator with an electric fan and a milodon high volume water pump 4V CC lower compression stock bore engine with a solid lifter cam, headers and a 85 holle double pumper. RWHP on the dyno was 300 on a bad run. With the Cleveland stant 190 degree thermostat and Classic Auto Air retrofit AC I had no problems with heaat even in 100 degree weather running my 3.89

I dropped a valve, so it is all apart right now, but I did a thread on here on the radiator and waterpump you should be able to find it and it has photos and part numbers.

I had already gone electric and installed the AC before I found this site, but I was very happy with the Classic Auto Air Perfect Fit system for our cars
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I was leaning toward that ac kit. I have a similar set up with a hydraulic cam. My buddy has a dyno 3 miles from my house so I should have numbers soon, maybe even a 1/8 mile slip.

 
Just a little update on cooling. My biggest help so far was ditching the huge water pump pulley to speed the fan up at idle and fixing a few air leaks around the shroud. The hot air it moves at idle now will burn your hand while setting the idle so it is moving more air I drove in slow traffic today and temp was mid 90's and I stayed under 190. Not quite perfect but since I know it can be cooled and had some success I will get it. I'm trying a few different fans next.

 
I forgot-there is one simple trick no one has mentioned and it is very cheap and effective. add a 1 1/2 air dam of rubber across the bottom of the core support and this will help create negative pressure and pull more air through the radiator.

190 is perfect operating temperature in my opinion.

 
Protree you got a vac advance on yer distributor? If so make sure you have the hose connected to full manifold vac, either on the carb or a manifold fitting.


Also, 190 is around the correct operating temp for a Cleveland. The factory installed thermostat is a 192.

 
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