1972 Fastback

[mustang newbie]

Hello I am new to the Mustang world. I was looking into buying this 1972 mustang but wanted to get more information and suggestions from experienced people on here. The owner doesn't know much about mustangs either but according to him the car is all original number matching. All I know is the interior needs to be redone and needs a new paint job. The car has been repainted once but wasn't painted the right way as you can see in the pics. What's the car worth to you guys? Is it a true fastback or Mach 1? Is that the original motor? He said it has a 351 Cleveland 4 barrel. Help me decide if this would be a good purchase or should I keep looking.

 

[jbojo]

Welcome from TriCities WA. Do you have the VIN number as that will give you some of the info you're asking. As far as number matching motor you would need to get the serial number off the block and compare it with the VIN. The drivers door should have a tag with codes that will give you info on tranny, rear axle, whether it was a fastback or MACH 1 etc. If the Vin has a "Q" in it, it was the 351C 4V motor or an "R" it was the 351C HO (rare).

Here is a link to decode the numbers for the VIN and data plate.

http://averagejoerestoration.com/1972-mustang-vin-and-data-plate-decoder-sheet/

 

[luxstang]

::welcome:: from Luxembourg, Europe.

I'm 99% percent certain that it is not a Mach1 unless it's had some major modifications done.

A Mach1 would have a different grille, no chrome trim around the front ( hood molding and fender extensions painted body color) and a urethane bumper instead of chrome. If I remember correctly the lower body molding could also not be ordered on a Mach.

The trim shown is consistent for a standard sports roof though.

If it were a Mach1 the VIN would read 05 on the 3rd and 4th digit.

As for the value of the car I cannot help as I'm in Europe and our prices are very different from those on the U.S. Market.

 

[mustang newbie]

Okay thanks for the info guys! Helps me out a lot I will try and get the vin number and take it from there. Anyone that lives in the US what would be the value on this car as it sits?

 

[goodnigh]

Welcome from northern California.

mike

 

[73pony]

The value will depend a lot on what the VIN says it is. Besides the VIN take a look inside the drivers door for the tag that has several codes on it. That will tell original color, axel, interior, etc. Also, how is the underside for rust? I noticed it starting by the drivers side wheel arch. Look at the floors, trunk pan, torq boxes under. If there is a ton of undercoat it could be that someone was trying to hide the rust. Also will be helpful to know if it runs and drives as it sits.

 

[will e]

Welcome from Phoenix. A vin verified Mach 1 will go for a little more than a fastback. Numbers matching, in my opinion, is only important if the car is in original well kept condition and really only if it is a rare or valuable model. Examples of rare and valuable would be any of the 'Boss' versions.

If your going to buy it to fix up and drive and have fun it may be a good car. If you are going to try to fix it and sell it for a profit then it's not going to be a good choice.

In reality our cars are still not commanding a premium price. We don't mind, we love our cars. But that's good news for ya!

I would look at the body and under side for rust. The floors tend to rot out. The cowl area rots out. Behind the rear wheel is another big rust spot.

If the car is rust free I would offer perhaps two thousand for it. If it is rusted I would probably move on. Your going to toss at least 10K into the paint, interior and mechanicals and that's if you go the least expensive routes.

That all said it could be a really cool car. And if you like the mach 1 look you can put the right trim and stripes on it.

 

[Otto]

It looks like you have a regular sportsroof. The difference is the above posted details and the interior. Mach 1's had the deluxe interior which consisted of carpet with pony inserts, door panels with faux woodgrain inserts, unique seat covers with a chrome piece on the upper portion. From the looks of the engine info decal on the cowl, I'm guessing it originally came with a 302 or 351c 2V. The decals I have seen for the 4V are usually green. As far as value, it is up to you. I believe the lines on the 71 to 73 sportsroof Mustang are some of the best ever used on a car. If you are in it for value, you are probably better off finding a genuine Mach 1, if this one is not. I hope I have been helpful.

 

[DK73]

Welcome from Denmark [WINKING FACE] Regards DK73

 

[Mikes73]

One plus about it being a non mach 1 sportsroof is you can build it any way you want to without feeling guilty about changing up a numbers matching mach. I would say if it isn't to rusted out $3500 would probably be a fair price. Good luck on whatever you decide.

 

[Otto]

I forgot to mention one thing. If you end up buying it, I would highly recommend installing some export braces. If you don't have them, it is bad for the frame and suspension geometry. The car might already have fatigue cracks from not having them.

 

[Boss1Ray]

Welcome from Oklahoma.

Ray

 

[mustang newbie]

Okay guys so I got a hold of the vin number the first 5 letters and digits are "2F02H" so definitely not a mach 1. Now the car does start and run but like I had said it does need some tlc. I just felt like the car was a little over priced so I figured this was the right place to get an idea and do a little more research before doing the purchase. The asking price is $8,500 and after receiving all this useful information i think I'll just have to move on or work on the price huh?


My plan was to just fix up the car not really to make any money or profit on it. I just wanted a nice 72 fastback sitting in my garage

 

[Wyostang]

Nice car but yeah that seems too high.

 

[mach71351c]

8500. Yeah that's 3k too much.

 

[ForSaleNo]

Welcome from Southern California...

 

[73pony]

Given that there is some rust on the car (not sure how much) and it was a 351c 2v motor with a 2bbl carb from the factory and now looks to have a 4 bbl on it. Also this was mentioned earlier that the support braces are missing and this is not a good thing. If the car is driven without the braces this can severely effect the cars geometry and cause stress cracks in the sub frame and floors as well as the cowl and firewall. Without seeing the car and based on what I have seen for prices and what I recently paid for my 73 (351c 2v Grande) I would estimate a "good deal" around the $3,500 range maybe up to $4,500 if the underside is rust free. Just my 2 cents.