1972 Mach 1 Project - FL

[ITMike5.0]

I had a similar experience to Chucks with my 1969 428CJ R code. It originally was a raven black exterior with white interior. I change the interior to black. Internally I switched the 3.23 anti-slip to a locker with 4.30 gears (a drivability mistake on my part), but I had essential a SCJ now.  My window sticker was consistent with the cars mods. I typically drove the car to shows, but for a MCA National show in Sturbridge MA it was too far to drive especially with those gears.  So I open trailered it to the show. At the show they insisted I enter the trailered concourse class and I thought that killed my chances of competing with all the true closed trailer queens. Anyway I received 570 points out of 600 and a silver. I was dinged cumulatively on cleanliness (-6), undercoating (-10), painted vs natural (-5), and a bunch of other minor things.  There was no issue with the interior or gear mods as long as they were true with factory availability, consistent with the documentation, or just plain not visible.

So if entering judged competitions is one of your goals, you can make the changes that you want and compete. I used the MCA early model judging rule book for some guidance.

OK...so excuse my lack of knowledge here, but isn't the exterior color and interior color on the door tag as well as the window sticker or Marti report?  I can see how people can change the unforeseen pieces to the engine to get more power, but how do you change the color and get a door tag and window sticker or Marti report to match??

 

[rackerm]

Door tags and window stickers can be reproduced and changed. It's possible to do. I always suggest getting a Marti report and/or the eminger invoice if still available to understand what the car had when it left the factory. When I sell a car I provide the Marti Report and described any changes made to the car.

My convertible left the factory with a white roof but I prefer the look of a black roof. So it does not match the window sticker or the Marti report, which is fine with me. If I ever show the car I may get deductions for it and that s fine with me too.

 

[ITMike5.0]

Removed the RH side fender today and the air cleaner which unveiled a non-stock Holley carburetor and some rust along that right side rail that the fender mounts to. 

Thoughts on the rust and necessary repairs and also sticking with an aftermarket carburetor or looking for an original 4300???

Top of rail....



Underside of rail...





Holley Carb



RH side behind fender splash guard.



best free picture hosting

 

[rackerm]

Are you planning on stripping it down to the sheet metal? Looks like a lot of sheet metal repair work needed. Those inner fender aprons need repair or replacement. Looks like the cowl will need some repair too. All doable and nothing that time and money can't fix. I would check out the rest of the body frame rails, Torque boxes, floors, etc to get a better idea on all that may be needed.

 

[ITMike5.0]

Are you planning on stripping it down to the sheet metal? Looks like a lot of sheet metal repair work needed. Those inner fender aprons need repair or replacement. Looks like the cowl will need some repair too. All doable and nothing that time and money can't fix. I would check out the rest of the body frame rails, Torque boxes, floors, etc to get a better idea on all that may be needed.

Yes, stripping the car and will have it dustless blasted.  See prior thread pages for pics of interior floors.  I'm guessing this right hand fender side is the worst side because the inside of the fender was rusted pretty bad.

 

[rackerm]

Did you ever get an answer to your question about the unidentified metal part? I'm guessing from the pictures, but it looks like there is a similar metal bracket attached to the floor on the passenger side under the rear seat bottom. The same area on the drivers side looks like it has rusted thru and that metal piece may have come loose from the floor. It's hard to tell from the pictures and I have a convertible which is different rear seat setup.

It does look like you had mice at one time, they love matting material and the stuffing from under the seats and dash. Be sure to wear nitrile gloves when handling that stuff!

 

[ITMike5.0]

Did you ever get an answer to your question about the unidentified metal part? I'm guessing from the pictures, but it looks like there is a similar metal bracket attached to the floor on the passenger side under the rear seat bottom. The same area on the drivers side looks like it has rusted thru and that metal piece may have come loose from the floor. It's hard to tell from the pictures and I have a convertible which is different rear seat setup.

It does look like you had mice at  one time, they love matting material and the stuffing from under the seats and dash. Be sure to wear nitrile gloves when handling that stuff!

Both sides still have that bracket on the floor.  The drivers side looks rusted through but it's still decent and intact.  I think it may have come from the quarter window area behind the trim...but still not sure what it is.

 

[ITMike5.0]

Also found this yesterday, but it was not attached to anything.  It was just laying in the front headlight area.



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[ITMike5.0]

OK, so I can figure out what most of these codes mean on the buck tag...but what about "BO"?

AC - self explanatory, PB - Power disc brakes, AM - AM/FM radio????, CS - compact or collapsible spare, EC - emissions control, BTRAC - Racing mirrors, FDS - Fold down seat, DE - Dual Exhaust

 

[jeff8877]

OK, so I can figure out what most of these codes mean on the buck tag...but what about "BO"?  

AC - self explanatory, PB - Power disc brakes, AM - AM/FM radio????, CS - compact or collapsible spare, EC - emissions control, BTRAC - Racing mirrors, FDS - Fold down seat, DE - Dual Exhaust

AM is actually AM/FM radio, CS is competition suspension, BO is black out paint at the rockers. The buck tag is another really nice original piece to have for your car, mounts on the upper radiator support drivers side.

 

[ITMike5.0]

OK, so I can figure out what most of these codes mean on the buck tag...but what about "BO"?  

AC - self explanatory, PB - Power disc brakes, AM - AM/FM radio????, CS - compact or collapsible spare, EC - emissions control, BTRAC - Racing mirrors, FDS - Fold down seat, DE - Dual Exhaust

AM is actually AM/FM radio, CS is competition suspension, BO is black out paint at the rockers. The buck tag is another really nice original piece to have for your car, mounts on the upper radiator support drivers side.

Yeah it was a pretty nice find that's for sure.  My Dad found it just laying behind the drivers side headlight I believe.  Where can I find some details on the competition suspension?

 

[jeff8877]

OK, so I can figure out what most of these codes mean on the buck tag...but what about "BO"?  

AC - self explanatory, PB - Power disc brakes, AM - AM/FM radio????, CS - compact or collapsible spare, EC - emissions control, BTRAC - Racing mirrors, FDS - Fold down seat, DE - Dual Exhaust

AM is actually AM/FM radio, CS is competition suspension, BO is black out paint at the rockers. The buck tag is another really nice original piece to have for your car, mounts on the upper radiator support drivers side.

Yeah it was a pretty nice find that's for sure.  My Dad found it just laying behind the drivers side headlight I believe.  Where can I find some details on the competition suspension?

Competition Suspension includes...

Extra heavy duty front/rear shocks

Extra heavy duty F/R springs

7/8" front sway bar 

1/2" rear sway bar

variable ratio steering box (P/S only)

staggered rear shocks (one shock on each side of rear end)

 

[ITMike5.0]

Finally got the LH fender off today...had to cut off one screw behind the headlight as it was just spinning in the radiator support.  Unfortunately I thought the RH side was the worst side but I was wrong.  Here are pics of the fender aprons and definitely more repairs needed on this side.  I really hope this is the worst rust that I find as I continue this tear down process.  So what parts do I need to purchase to repair/replace this area?  Basically every fender apron for the LH side I guess...







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[rackerm]

Have you checked for the VIN stamped in to the lip above the shock tower? On the piece between the two inner fender aprons on both sides. Hopefully you can repair the shock towers where they meet/overlap with the inner front and rear fender aprons.

 

[ITMike5.0]

Have you checked for the VIN stamped in to the lip above the shock tower? On the piece between the two inner fender aprons on both sides. Hopefully you can repair the shock towers where they meet/overlap with the inner front and rear fender aprons.

Yes, the VIN was on the RH side and also appears to be on the LH side.  The LH side is so rusted it's hard to even see it but it is clear as day on the RH side.

Here is the RH side



Here is the LH side in both color and black and white.  It's a tad bit easier to see in black and white but still barely visible.





multiple image

 

[ITMike5.0]

Got the repro window sticker from Marti Auto Works today.

 

[mach71351c]

A cool car to have. Defiantly worthy of a restoration.

 

[ITMike5.0]

So here I am once again...trying to decide which direction to take with this car.  I know there are a lot of fans on this site of remaining completely stock but there are so many reasons NOT to keep it stock.  I'm going to drive this car and once all the work is done I'm looking to have a car that is everything I wanted and more.  That being said...I am not really a fan of the color white for cars.  I tend to gravitate towards blue for sure!  Also I do have a numbers matching car but I want more out of the 351C 4bbl engine so I will more than likely modify that to some extent as well.  As long as all of the correct components are there what is the harm in adding a bit of horsepower??  After all it is a Mustang and that is exactly what the owners tend to do with them still to this day...tinker, tune, etc.

To help with my decision on the color I even went as far as to buy a couple of 1:18 replicas both in white and grabber blue.  I personally like the blue but I am partial because I also own a 2011 5.0 that is grabber blue.  I figure...either direction I take I will have a cool little 1:18 replica to complement the car.   

What do you guys think??

 

[clevelandcoupe]

+1 on the grabber blue !!!

I never thought I would go this far with my mach 1. If I did it would definitely been grabber blue.....

Thanks, Jay

 

[Ray]

If you build it to suit yourself you'll be happy. Enjoy, . If you build it for someone else's taste or considerations , you'll loose your butt and be unhappy. Yeah for grabber blue!!!! No to restore, yes to retomod. Just do it right, not white, but blue, not true. Do it your way, just saying!!!