Sorry already have wilwoods, yes pads are $90 and calipers are $125 but it is what I have.
if your going to be a exclusive street driver then power is what you want and most likely you'll have the vacuum for it so go power. guys that go manual just use it cuz thats how thier car came from the factory. however, if you want to go hydraulic clutch then thats also the way to go. i want to get american powertrain's hydromax kit but i'm so afraid it'll not fit with the booster. i have staired at that spot for hours with the motor removed just to see it'll even work with it there.
See now I have 4 wheel disc non power and with the properly sized mc have no issues with the pedal being hard to push. It will even lock the wheels up if needed. So the key is to match everything. Wilwood has a decent tech line as long as the problems are not to difficult.
Isn't it terrible how we drive ourselves crazy trying to figure things out. We won't be at this stage for installation for many months yet (just got it back from stripping and it is at body now, then to paint) I appreciate the time you've taken in responding. Driving a 521 6 speed should be a handful. My street will be automatic with ratchet shifter.
Kevin,
Roy, im still running the stock Mc from the drum brakes. i just havent switched it yet because I was waiting till winter to just put on the power setup i have laying in the garage. If i didnt have the power set up i would definately be looking for another mc or something cause my pedal is tough!! LOL.
LOl i hear ya, o'well builds one strong leg anyways
yup, ebay rotors and pads, rock auto for the calipers and brackets. the only difference between qcode and me was i needed the OEM disc brake conversion kit while he did the OEM drum conversion kit. the oem disc kit comes with a modified and redrilled/tapped caliper bracket while the oem drum uses the cobra bracket as is from the factory.
on BTW, i'm trying to find some really lower profile brake hose and banjo bolt. those are the only parts that is keeping me to put a deeper BS 15 wheel in there. i'd like to put a 15x12 or 15x11 in the wheel in there for y slicks so i can put a 29.5x11.5 slick in there. that or find a 15 that has hardly any lip.
i can almost bank on you having enough vacuum. i ran a 242 242 cam on my 460 before and still had enough vacuum. my last came was a 230 and 236 and it has enough vacuum as well. now my 521 had 252 and 260 duration and it had only 7 lbs of vacuum and i would have vacuum when i initially started breaking but when the car went to idle i went back down to 7 lbs and it kind of felt manual. to fix that all i have to do is buy a vacuum reservior which is like 20 dollars.
thanks for all your help. I plan to check with engine builder to confirm should have enough vacuum. Then if so will go with power discs. I will street drive this car but only a limited amount. It won't see the strip. Shows and some casual driving in its future.
In body work for next few months, then onto paint. We will take over after these steps are done.
We have a 70 rear setup being done(narrower), narrowed springs, moser axles total performance frame connectors and torque arm. Will rebuild all steering and suspension. 17x9.5 AR polished torqs out back 17x8 front, Nitto 50 series tires for stick and tall so I don't drag underside. March serpentine with sanden and classic auto air. Dakota Digital dash. Haven't picked audio yet.
I had hoped to have it running by next august, and it may be but it will be far from done. I retire in just less than 2 years and need it done well before that.
again thanks to all
Jenny and Roshelle
