'71 Mustang clicking issue

[Heardatbeat]

If Marti was able to provide you with the entire vin the 5th character would be the engine code. I am guessing M but could be a Q as someone stated above. I would also check the back of the block. It will have a partial vin stamp on it. It may be the original engine to the car.

Yup. It is an M. Where would it be around in the back of the block? I got the one under the starter. Is there a different one?

 

[73pony]

Back side of block on drivers side just below where the head attaches there should be numbers stamped in the block that will correspond with the last 6 digits of the vin. It is a PITA to see while engine is in the car as it is between block and firewall. You usually make it out with a good light and inspection mirror.

 

[Stanglover]

If Marti was able to provide you with the entire vin the 5th character would be the engine code. I am guessing M but could be a Q as someone stated above. I would also check the back of the block. It will have a partial vin stamp on it. It may be the original engine to the car.

Yup. It is an M. Where would it be around in the back of the block? I got the one under the starter. Is there a different one?

  That's good news. Even if your current engine is not the original, at least it is appropriate.

 Going back to where you said what the casting numbers/letters were and without going back and looking, I believe you said they were D0AE-L (that's a good block) and a date code of 1 O, or more like Q 10 which would be March 10 1971. Not many know that there was a second year set of date codes according to my research mentioned before.

I have to take a break, I'll get back and add to this shortly,

 Okay, I'm back.

On date codes, I found this on www.Mercurystuff.com  BUT you might get this easier if you Google 1971 Ford date codes and go to 1971 Ford, Lincoln, Mercury Identification. (Mercurystuff.com) There is a ton of good info there for all Ford vehicles. It does show a SECOND year date code list for when a model exceeded 12 months. In this case the letter, if it is indeed a "Q" is March 71. I miss-quoted the day as 10, but I re-read it and you said it was a 15, so it would be 1971 March 15th as the day the block was cast, not when it was built. The engine tag, long gone would have that information. However, it looks like your engine and heads are date appropriate if not date correct. (Sorry if it is harder to get the info you need, but my computer skills are very lacking and I am unable to paste it in, Perhaps someone else can!)

Any chance the guy you bought the car off might know where that original engine is even if it's NFG? More food for thought Eh!

Geoff.

 

[Heardatbeat]

Back side of block on drivers side just below where the head attaches there should be numbers stamped in the block that will correspond with the last 6 digits of the vin. It is a PITA to see while engine is in the car as it is between block and firewall. You usually make it out with a good light and inspection mirror.

If Marti was able to provide you with the entire vin the 5th character would be the engine code. I am guessing M but could be a Q as someone stated above. I would also check the back of the block. It will have a partial vin stamp on it. It may be the original engine to the car.

Yup. It is an M. Where would it be around in the back of the block? I got the one under the starter. Is there a different one?

  That's good news. Even if your current engine is not the original, at least it is appropriate.

 Going back to where you said what the casting numbers/letters were and without going back and looking, I believe you said they were D0AE-L (that's a good block) and a date code of 1 O, or more like Q 10 which would be March 10 1971. Not many know that there was a second year set of date codes according to my research mentioned before.

I have to take a break, I'll get back and add to this shortly,

 Okay, I'm back.

On date codes, I found this on www.Mercurystuff.com  BUT you might get this easier if you Google 1971 Ford date codes and go to 1971 Ford, Lincoln, Mercury Identification. (Mercurystuff.com) There is a ton of good info there for all Ford vehicles. It does show a SECOND year date code list for when a model exceeded 12 months. In this case the letter, if it is indeed a "Q" is March 71. I miss-quoted the day as 10, but I re-read it and you said it was a 15, so it would be 1971 March 15th as the day the block was cast, not when it was built. The engine tag, long gone would have that information. However, it looks like your engine and heads are date appropriate if not date correct. (Sorry if it is harder to get the info you need, but my computer skills are very lacking and I am unable to paste it in, Perhaps someone else can!)

Any chance the guy you bought the car off might know where that original engine is even if it's NFG? More food for thought Eh!

Geoff.

I will have to take a look when I start the tune-up. I have a small overhaul replacing some electrical and mechanical things. I ordered a stock harmonic balancer today from O'Reillys. All I need now is some transmission mounts and a new harmonic balancer bolt and I will start cleaning up the engine. I am going to replace all the rocker arm bolts and retorque them. I also got some Risoline for the tune up. My main concerns are still the ticking sound and the vibrations. I suspect the mounts because the shifter does shake when I rev the engine a bit. But who knows. I also intend to retorque the intake and while I am at it replace the gaskets on the intake manifold.

 

[Stanglover]

Boy, are we having fun with this!! I am anyways.

I can only make suggestions based on my own experiences. I am not a mechanic, nor have I worked on Mustangs for the past 40 years, but wish I had sometimes. I leave the real technical stuff up to other very experienced members and I too am learning from them.

I/we don't know your mechanical skills, but I suspect you are pretty handy around wrenches, so some of what is mentioned or suggested is likely pretty obvious.

For when you do the rocker bolts, it would be very handy  to get a remote start switch. This connects to the battery + and the "S" terminal (I think??!!) on the solenoid and with the key OFF and in NEUTRAL with wheels blocked, you can bump the crank over to relieve pressure on the rockers in turn.

 I can offer a couple of tips when it come to replacing the intake manifold gaskets as that is on our list of "things to do" if you have not done one before. First, you can buy the valley pan and gaskets from RockAuto cheaper than elsewhere for the same thing. Get the FelPro set!! Some do not use the valley pan and argue against it, so it's your choice, but I use them on my engine. Follow the instructions , but do NOT use the rubber end seals. Instead spend 20 bucks and buy a tube of "The Right Stuff" in black. This is way better than RTV and dose not have to sit 24 hrs before running it. Also RTV is NOT gasoline proof, so around the intake ports, I used aircraft grade Permatex 2 Form-A-Gasket. Make sure that the ends corners where the heads meet the block are well sealed. The surfaces need to be very clean!! No old gunk at all.

These intakes are heavy, so you will need the help of someone. I found that using a couple of 5/16th thrd. eye bolts and a piece of steel tube diagonally mounted to the carb base works well to lift it in and out. I also use a couple of long 5/16th bolts with the heads cut off, screwed into one of the center bolt holes each side, to guide the intake into place without smearing the sealants all over the place. Take your time and it is quite an easy job. Torque to spec.  Also there are several post on here that you can search.

Hope that helps some, you can do it. If you can get a copy of the Ford 1971 car shop manual volume 2, engines off Ebay or elsewhere.

 

[Don C]

You are correct, the remote starter switch connects to the battery post on the solenoid or positive post on the battery and the "S" terminal on the solenoid. Also, disconnect the "I" terminal wire on the solenoid to keep the engine from trying to start when using a remote starter switch. The "I" terminal supplies 12 volts to the ignition coil whenever the starter solenoid is energized.

Good post.

 

[Stanglover]

You are correct, the remote starter switch connects to the battery post on the solenoid or positive post on the battery and the "S" terminal on the solenoid. Also, disconnect the "I" terminal wire on the solenoid to keep the engine from trying to start when using a remote starter switch. The "I" terminal supplies 12 volts to the ignition coil whenever the starter solenoid is energized.

Good post.

Don, thanks for confirming the connection of a remote switch and reminding me about the "I" terminal. I forgot about that. That remote switch is without doubt, one of the best little gadgets I bought and that was years ago.

Oh! and thanks for the point.

 

[Stanglover]

Just for the heck of it, here is a picture of "my" grabber Lime 71 Mustang. (you will notice that the label says "Dark Green". Someone goofed up! ) Don't laugh, it is likely as close to owning one as I'll ever get........unless someone offers me a boat load of cash for my current car. Hint hint!

 

[Heardatbeat]

Boy, are we having fun with this!! I am anyways.

I can only make suggestions based on my own experiences. I am not a mechanic, nor have I worked on Mustangs for the past 40 years, but wish I had sometimes. I leave the real technical stuff up to other very experienced members and I too am learning from them.

I/we don't know your mechanical skills, but I suspect you are pretty handy around wrenches, so some of what is mentioned or suggested is likely pretty obvious.

For when you do the rocker bolts, it would be very handy  to get a remote start switch. This connects to the battery + and the "S" terminal (I think??!!) on the solenoid and with the key OFF and in NEUTRAL with wheels blocked, you can bump the crank over to relieve pressure on the rockers in turn.

 I can offer a couple of tips when it come to replacing the intake manifold gaskets as that is on our list of "things to do" if you have not done one before. First, you can buy the valley pan and gaskets from RockAuto cheaper than elsewhere for the same thing. Get the FelPro set!! Some do not use the valley pan and argue against it, so it's your choice, but I use them on my engine. Follow the instructions , but do NOT use the rubber end seals. Instead spend 20 bucks and buy a tube of "The Right Stuff" in black. This is way better than RTV and dose not have to sit 24 hrs before running it. Also RTV is NOT gasoline proof, so around the intake ports, I used aircraft grade Permatex 2 Form-A-Gasket. Make sure that the ends corners where the heads meet the block are well sealed. The surfaces need to be very clean!! No old gunk at all.

These intakes are heavy, so you will need the help of someone. I found that using a couple of 5/16th thrd. eye bolts and a piece of steel tube diagonally mounted to the carb base works well to lift it in and out. I also use a couple of long 5/16th bolts with the heads cut off, screwed into one of the center bolt holes each side, to guide the intake into place without smearing the sealants all over the place. Take your time and it is quite an easy job. Torque to spec.  Also there are several post on here that you can search.

Hope that helps some, you can do it. If you can get a copy of the Ford 1971 car shop manual volume 2, engines off Ebay or elsewhere.

You are correct, the remote starter switch connects to the battery post on the solenoid or positive post on the battery and the "S" terminal on the solenoid. Also, disconnect the "I" terminal wire on the solenoid to keep the engine from trying to start when using a remote starter switch. The "I" terminal supplies 12 volts to the ignition coil whenever the starter solenoid is energized.

Good post.

Just for the heck of it, here is a picture of "my" grabber Lime 71 Mustang. (you will notice that the label says "Dark Green". Someone goofed up! ) Don't laugh, it is likely as close to owning one as I'll ever get........unless someone offers me a boat load of cash for my current car. Hint hint!

To say I am handy with a wrench is kind of a stretch  haha! Everything I am going to do is the first time ever. Except the oil change. I think I have all the tools and supplies needed. Except for the "right stuff" but I have a high tack gasket sealer so the gaskets stay in place. I also bought some plastic gasket removers to remove old gaskets without damaging the block. Is the remote starter necessary? I do not mind walking back and forth to crank the engine everytime. Unless the starter offers me some better accuracy or something? When it comes time I will post everything I ordered including tools. So we can see what I am missing. I am not too worried about the intake. I am a kinda stocky guy (thanks to the Army). And as for the Grabber Green. I am warming up to it. All the Grabber colors are nice. But green is starting to look cooler and cooler.

 

[Don C]

To me a remote starter switch is a must have tool. There are times when I want to watch something moving while the engine is cranking, like the points and rotor, or to get the rotor pointed at #1, or to get the crank pulley to TDC, or when running compression tests, and so.

 

[Heardatbeat]

To me a remote starter switch is a must have tool. There are times when I want to watch something moving while the engine is cranking, like the points and rotor, or to get the rotor pointed at #1, or to get the crank pulley to TDC,  or when running compression tests, and so.

That works. I am sure I can find one online or at a local auto parts store. If it helps with finding TDC then I am all for it. Finding TDC methods kind of stump me.

 

[Don C]

In a pinch you can use a screwdriver or a piece of wire to jump from the solenoid battery post to the "S" terminal.

I would imagine every parts store has them:

http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/remote-starter-switch?filterByKeyWord=remote+starter&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=remote+starter

 

[Stanglover]

To me a remote starter switch is a must have tool. There are times when I want to watch something moving while the engine is cranking, like the points and rotor, or to get the rotor pointed at #1, or to get the crank pulley to TDC,  or when running compression tests, and so.

That works. I am sure I can find one online or at a local auto parts store. If it helps with finding TDC then I am all for it. Finding TDC methods kind of stump me.

  They are not expensive at all and an essential tool to have in the tool box as Don says.

 

[Heardatbeat]

To me a remote starter switch is a must have tool. There are times when I want to watch something moving while the engine is cranking, like the points and rotor, or to get the rotor pointed at #1, or to get the crank pulley to TDC,  or when running compression tests, and so.

That works. I am sure I can find one online or at a local auto parts store. If it helps with finding TDC then I am all for it. Finding TDC methods kind of stump me.

  They are not expensive at all and an essential tool to have in the tool box as Don says.

Yeah I will pick one up next time I go to Harbor Freight.

 

[Stanglover]

These intakes are heavy, so you will need the help of someone. I found that using a couple of 5/16th thrd. eye bolts and a piece of steel tube diagonally mounted to the carb base works well to lift it in and out. I also use a couple of long 5/16th bolts with the heads cut off, screwed into one of the center bolt holes each side, to guide the intake into place without smearing the sealants all over the place. Take your time and it is quite an easy job. Torque to spec.  Also there are several post on here that you can search.

Hope that helps some, you can do it. If you can get a copy of the Ford 1971 car shop manual volume 2, engines off Ebay or elsewhere.

You are correct, the remote starter switch connects to the battery post on the solenoid or positive post on the battery and the "S" terminal on the solenoid. Also, disconnect the "I" terminal wire on the solenoid to keep the engine from trying to start when using a remote starter switch. The "I" terminal supplies 12 volts to the ignition coil whenever the starter solenoid is energized.

To say I am handy with a wrench is kind of a stretch  haha! Everything I am going to do is the first time ever. Except the oil change. I think I have all the tools and supplies needed. Except for the "right stuff" but I have a high tack gasket sealer so the gaskets stay in place. I also bought some plastic gasket removers to remove old gaskets without damaging the block. Is the remote starter necessary? I do not mind walking back and forth to crank the engine everytime. Unless the starter offers me some better accuracy or something? When it comes time I will post everything I ordered including tools. So we can see what I am missing. I am not too worried about the intake. I am a kinda stocky guy (thanks to the Army). And as for the Grabber Green. I am warming up to it. All the Grabber colors are nice. But green is starting to look cooler and cooler.

  Being stocky and strong isn't the issue in removing an intake. They are just way easier to lift off and on with two people. These cars are wide and long in the hood area. Trust me on that, done mine a couple of times in the last year 

As for the gasket sealer, there are groves around the ports on the valley pan that need sealer in them. I do not use the silicone provided as I have found, a) it doesn't stand up to gas and, b) it always seems to end up overflowing into the ports no matter how stingy you are with it. I have not had any issues with the way I do it, no vacuum leaks. I'm sure you'll get other opinions though. Some don't even use the paper gaskets and mount the valley pan directly to the heads. Not my choice on that subject.

 As your car was originally Grabber Green and not too many were painted that color as I recall, it would be great to see it finished in that color........ with a black interior, my choice! If you do go G G, please make sure the color match is correct as the new paints may not look the same as the original enamel. OK, I'm way too picky on stuff like that, but!!! When you get to that point and that may be some time off yet, ask for more qualified advice first on paint type and application. That's for another post though.

 

[Heardatbeat]

These intakes are heavy, so you will need the help of someone. I found that using a couple of 5/16th thrd. eye bolts and a piece of steel tube diagonally mounted to the carb base works well to lift it in and out. I also use a couple of long 5/16th bolts with the heads cut off, screwed into one of the center bolt holes each side, to guide the intake into place without smearing the sealants all over the place. Take your time and it is quite an easy job. Torque to spec.  Also there are several post on here that you can search.

Hope that helps some, you can do it. If you can get a copy of the Ford 1971 car shop manual volume 2, engines off Ebay or elsewhere.

You are correct, the remote starter switch connects to the battery post on the solenoid or positive post on the battery and the "S" terminal on the solenoid. Also, disconnect the "I" terminal wire on the solenoid to keep the engine from trying to start when using a remote starter switch. The "I" terminal supplies 12 volts to the ignition coil whenever the starter solenoid is energized.

To say I am handy with a wrench is kind of a stretch  haha! Everything I am going to do is the first time ever. Except the oil change. I think I have all the tools and supplies needed. Except for the "right stuff" but I have a high tack gasket sealer so the gaskets stay in place. I also bought some plastic gasket removers to remove old gaskets without damaging the block. Is the remote starter necessary? I do not mind walking back and forth to crank the engine everytime. Unless the starter offers me some better accuracy or something? When it comes time I will post everything I ordered including tools. So we can see what I am missing. I am not too worried about the intake. I am a kinda stocky guy (thanks to the Army). And as for the Grabber Green. I am warming up to it. All the Grabber colors are nice. But green is starting to look cooler and cooler.

  Being stocky and strong isn't the issue in removing an intake. They are just way easier to lift off and on with two people. These cars are wide and long in the hood area. Trust me on that, done mine a couple of times in the last year 

As for the gasket sealer, there are groves around the ports on the valley pan that need sealer in them. I do not use the silicone provided as I have found, a) it doesn't stand up to gas and, b) it always seems to end up overflowing into the ports no matter how stingy you are with it. I have not had any issues with the way I do it, no vacuum leaks. I'm sure you'll get other opinions though. Some don't even use the paper gaskets and mount the valley pan directly to the heads. Not my choice on that subject.

 As your car was originally Grabber Green and not too many were painted that color as I recall, it would be great to see it finished in that color........ with a black interior, my choice! If you do go G G, please make sure the color match is correct as the new paints may not look the same as the original enamel. OK, I'm way too picky on stuff like that, but!!! When you get to that point and that may be some time off yet, ask for more qualified advice first on paint type and application. That's for another post though.

Oh yes I am still waaaay far off from painting the car. As for the gaskets the sealer I got I made sure it was liquid proof. I do want to do it right the first time. So I am all ears to suggestions from people who have done this more than I have.

 

[Stanglover]

Okay, I'm sure you'll get through it with what you have, but remember, there is no such thing as a dumb question.......... just loads of dumb answers, no, just joking. Someone will help out when needed.

I did just have a thought going back to the original question about that vibration. I hope it is not the case, but has anyone talked about the possibility of the main bearings on the crank being shot? If this is the case, you are in for a rebuild. As you have a new damper coming, try that first. If it is still there, can you talk to someone who knows Ford engines better than your first mechanic?

Back in 2012, my 85K miles engine, totally original at the time developed a vibration that was baffling to me. I took the car to someone I know who is arguably one of the top Ford engine guys in Canada, I'll not mention his name, but his diagnosis was correct and it was indeed the mains that were shot..... and I mean shot. I should have thought about this before I know.

As many others have mentioned, there are many possibilities that can cause this vibration and it could just be out of balance. I'm getting in way over my head here, but as I think of stuff, I mention it. My engine was internally balanced to according to the rebuild sheet and that is with the clutch and balancer on as well. That's way too technical stuff for me, but it runs as smooth as silk.

Sorry if I'm getting you too worried about this issue, but it can be daunting.

 

[Heardatbeat]

Okay, I'm sure you'll get through it with what you have, but remember, there is no such thing as a dumb question.......... just loads of dumb answers, no, just joking. Someone will help out when needed.

I did just have a thought going back to the original question about that vibration. I hope it is not the case, but has anyone talked about the possibility of the main bearings on the crank being shot? If this is the case, you are in for a rebuild. As you have a new damper coming, try that first. If it is still there, can you talk to someone who knows Ford engines better than your first mechanic?

Back in 2012, my 85K miles engine, totally original at the time developed a vibration that was baffling to me. I took the car to someone I know who is arguably one of the top Ford engine guys in Canada, I'll not mention his name, but his diagnosis was correct and it was indeed the mains that were shot..... and I mean shot. I should have thought about this before I know.

As many others have mentioned, there are many possibilities that can cause this vibration and it could just be out of balance. I'm getting in way over my head here, but as I think of stuff, I mention it. My engine was internally balanced to according to the rebuild sheet and that is with the clutch and balancer on as well. That's way too technical stuff for me, but it runs as smooth as silk.

Sorry if I'm getting you too worried about this issue, but it can be daunting.

Yeah. Someone mentioned it. I want to do everything I can before I consider an engine rebuild.

 

[Stanglover]

Okay, I'm sure you'll get through it with what you have, but remember, there is no such thing as a dumb question.......... just loads of dumb answers, no, just joking. Someone will help out when needed.

I did just have a thought going back to the original question about that vibration. I hope it is not the case, but has anyone talked about the possibility of the main bearings on the crank being shot? If this is the case, you are in for a rebuild. As you have a new damper coming, try that first. If it is still there, can you talk to someone who knows Ford engines better than your first mechanic?

Back in 2012, my 85K miles engine, totally original at the time developed a vibration that was baffling to me. I took the car to someone I know who is arguably one of the top Ford engine guys in Canada, I'll not mention his name, but his diagnosis was correct and it was indeed the mains that were shot..... and I mean shot. I should have thought about this before I know.

As many others have mentioned, there are many possibilities that can cause this vibration and it could just be out of balance. I'm getting in way over my head here, but as I think of stuff, I mention it. My engine was internally balanced according to the rebuild sheet and that is with the clutch and balancer on as well. That's way too technical stuff for me, but it runs as smooth as silk.

Sorry if I'm getting you too worried about this issue, but it can be daunting.

Yeah. Someone mentioned it. I want to do everything I can before I consider an engine rebuild.

 Okay and absolutely. The other side of that is how much do you spend before going to a full re-build? You don't have to spend 10K or even 5K on a basic rebuild. Without digging out my receipts, the basic long block rebuild for my engine was only about 2300 bucks, but I did add some extras, new water pump, balancer (damper), clutch, Pertronix III ignition and some other stuff that bought it up to less than 4k CND and that was with it broke in on the test stand. (taxes @13% extra of course!) Of course it goes up from there if you want a roller cam valve train or stroker kit or..........

 

[Heardatbeat]

Okay, I'm sure you'll get through it with what you have, but remember, there is no such thing as a dumb question.......... just loads of dumb answers, no, just joking. Someone will help out when needed.

I did just have a thought going back to the original question about that vibration. I hope it is not the case, but has anyone talked about the possibility of the main bearings on the crank being shot? If this is the case, you are in for a rebuild. As you have a new damper coming, try that first. If it is still there, can you talk to someone who knows Ford engines better than your first mechanic?

Back in 2012, my 85K miles engine, totally original at the time developed a vibration that was baffling to me. I took the car to someone I know who is arguably one of the top Ford engine guys in Canada, I'll not mention his name, but his diagnosis was correct and it was indeed the mains that were shot..... and I mean shot. I should have thought about this before I know.

As many others have mentioned, there are many possibilities that can cause this vibration and it could just be out of balance. I'm getting in way over my head here, but as I think of stuff, I mention it. My engine was internally balanced according to the rebuild sheet and that is with the clutch and balancer on as well. That's way too technical stuff for me, but it runs as smooth as silk.

Sorry if I'm getting you too worried about this issue, but it can be daunting.

Yeah. Someone mentioned it. I want to do everything I can before I consider an engine rebuild.

 Okay and absolutely. The other side of that is how much do you spend before going to a full re-build? You don't have to spend 10K or even 5K on a basic rebuild. Without digging out my receipts, the basic long block rebuild for my engine was only about 2300 bucks, but I did add some extras, new water pump, balancer (damper), clutch, Pertronix III ignition and some other stuff that bought it up to less than 4k CND and that was with it broke in on the test stand. (taxes @13% extra of course!) Of course it goes up from there if you want a roller cam valve train or stroker kit or..........

Not too bad. Though honestly I think I would try and rebuild it myself. Only thing I would need help with is pulling the engine out and putting it back in. But the heart of it I would try and do it myself. Even if it took months. I got a little beater Honda I can drive until it is ready  lollerz