72 Mach1 H.O.

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the guy wants 6k for it. I was going to offer 5k and try to stick to that price. but i was thinking he would do 5.5k for it. is the vin staped on the block?
Yes the vin should be on the back of the block right below the head

Take a mirror, flashlight and piece of 120 grit sandpaper

You need to lay on the shock tower brace but you can see it with the mirror

Look for the HO specific parts

carb

valve covers are there

exhaust manifolds

distibutor

HO motor, complete 4 speed , 391 N case posi

ram air prices are WAY down 1400.00 for a good one

If it is a match and all the correct stuff it there.

Start at 4500 but I would have 6 in my pocket ;)

good luck

 
If it wasn't a rare car, that roof rust would make it a terminal parts car on the west coast...

If you have a digital camera, set it on macro, and aim it at the block just below the driver's head, and above the bell housing. That's how I confirmed my numbers matching motor. Snap pics till you get it.

IMG_16341.jpg


 
Yea. Next best thing to a Boss 351. I talked to the guy last night. We r meeting up on Saturday. He says he has paper work on the car. The owner before him had the engine rebuilt by Garden State Mustang in NJ. So I hope the original engine is still in it! Just have to wait till Saturday now. I will be taking a mirror, flash light and camera and getting behind that engine to look for the vin. Me and my father might have to sell our 1964 1/2 conv to keep the HO. We r starting to have more cars than room. Haha

 
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Just don't forget to factor in all the HO specific items the car had as new, and make sure they are there.

For instance, the air cleaner for an HO is far more rare than the ram-air setup that has been installed on the car. I believe you said thd rev limiter is gone too...those are made of unobtanium today. The manifolds are gone...how hard is it to find the correct ones?

Crawl under thd car and be sure if still has its "N" case differential.

If you don't plan on restoring it to original, then spending $5000 on a rusted-out hulk is a waste of money.

If you just want a cool mustang with a couple of custom features, start with any garden-variety Mach 1. You can pick up a much better condition car for that kind of money.

But...if you are going to restore this thing right, pay the man, take it home and open up your wallet!

 
I would like to clean her up and get her road worthy. Use it and slowly collect the parts needed. After I complete my 67 k- code start working on this.

 
Those rotted-out out sections at the top of the A-pillars are indicative of major rot in other areas, especially the dash and cowl areas. Check the floors and torque-boxs well. You don't want to be driving a car with rotted torque-boxes or floor rails. That type of total restorative repair is hugely expensive.

Switching everything to a donor body would probably be far easier, less expensive and end up better.

 
I don't think the rust is that bad to make use of a doner car but the a-pillar is not fun to fix at all. I know it will be opening a can of worms but a car like this should be saved. Only 398 made.


I have seen rust like this on the pillars. A lot of this happens when someone scratches the car when replacing a windshield. They don't touch up or repair the scratch and bang u got a bad case of rust.

 
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I think the HO is the lowest number selling high performance package for a mustang

 
Yes, certainly far more rare than a BOSS 351. For daily-driver considerations, I would much prefer an HO over a BOSS 351 for driving on today's gasoline.

My 429 was factory 11.3 compression, and it required 101 octane at the time. With the 11.7 of the BOSS 351,.I imagine it needed at least that.

The HOs 9.4 compression makes it much friendler for todsy's gas.

The BOSS 351 has garnered all the accolades over the years, but an identically equipped 72 HO runs so close to the BOSS as to make little to no difference. The lack of available ram-air is the only drawback to me, but easy to add without ruining the collectibilty of the car.

 
Those rotted-out out sections at the top of the A-pillars are indicative of major rot in other areas, especially the dash and cowl areas. Check the floors and torque-boxs well. You don't want to be driving a car with rotted torque-boxes or floor rails. That type of total restorative repair is hugely expensive.

Switching everything to a donor body would probably be far easier, less expensive and end up better.
That would be just wrong! IMHO

 
Whats the difference? With all the sheetmetal replacement and bodywork that car requires, there won't be much originality left anyway.

 
Yes and no. I understand that if the original engine is missing te value goes down but that does not mean it should not be restored. The car does have some rust and tomorrow I will be finding out just how much. Going to try real hard to buy it but really it's not the rust that scares me it the price of the car if the rust is really bad.

 
The N case 9" rear and the original engine would be enough for me to spend 5k, but thats me.
Me 2 plus a complete 4 speed, tach dash, deluxe int I'd be OK with 6K

 
Excuse me for jumping into this discussion at the tail end. Enjoyed it thus far; I have a friend in Brandon (across Tampa Bay from me; an hour from me) who took about 4 years to restore a 1972 Mach 1 351 HO. He found it in the woods in S.C. Looked like a total basket case. But he took the time to restore it correctly. It is one of the nicest 1972 Mach 1's in existence. His name is John Douglas; 813-681-3200. If you type in "1972 Mach 1 R Code, John Douglas", you probably will see his small website on the history of the restoration. He is a fountain of good information for anyone wanting to grapple with the 72 R Code. Hope that helps. Tim

 
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