73 Coupe

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The rod is called the "backdrive" or "column lock" rod. Properly adjusted, it functions as shifter interlock device and prevents the key from being turned to "lock" without the transmission in Park (or reverse on a stick car). Conversely, it locks the trans into Park or Reverse when the key is in "Lock".

There is a seal and o-ring on the shift shaft. You'll need to drop the pan and valve body to replace them.


 
it appears to just be leaking from the kickdown rod. I stuck a box under it so i can really see where its coming from

 
it appears to just be leaking from the kickdown rod. I stuck a box under it so i can really see where its coming from
The kickdown shaft has an o-ring that seals it to the bore in the shift shaft. Most likely it and the shift shaft seal are leaking, but it's a ten minute job so worth a try. 

The o-ring is Ford part # 386078-S

 
it appears to just be leaking from the kickdown rod. I stuck a box under it so i can really see where its coming from
The kickdown shaft has an o-ring that seals it to the bore in the shift shaft. Most likely it and the shift shaft seal are leaking, but it's a ten minute job so worth a try. 

The o-ring is Ford part # 386078-S
Seems like that shows as a c6 part number. Will that work on a c4?

 
If the o ring is leaking oil then the shaft seal would be leaking

As mentioned before you will need to drop the pan and valve body so while you're at it may as well change the oil etc

Here's a how to video if you want to DIY


 
O ring finally showed up yesterday so ill be putting that on soon. Over the weekend i finally coated the rear end parts, cut/re-fitted the bumper brackets, and put it all back together.





 
Today is pissing me off. I replaced a o ring on the trans...still leaks blah!! I took.it for a drive and was all happy until I got home and coolant was everywhere. On the hood, baggery, radiator, wtf

Top it off and i need to replace.my main breaker at home. It's been getting weird and the mfer is stuck and wont come tf out. Stupid pos murray mdh junk mfer





 
ok, i have no replaced my radiator cap and need to go for another drive.

I also didnt tighten down the nut on the trans as much as i thought and after a good tightening it seems to either not eb leaking or leaking very little in comparison

 
How did the test drive go?
Havent had a chance to go on a 2nd test drive but the original one went great other then the coolant issue. The car shifts good, the power steering works good, it handles pretty well in general.  The main concerns are fixing leaks at this point. I need to replace the valve covers, and get the coolant sorted out. Of course its raining for the next 4 freaking days here to so maybe ill test it in the rain next

 
Well took it for another test drive with a new radiator cap. 1. I apparently tightened the kickdown/o-ring area too much. As the shifter is a struggle to put into gear.

2. SAME issue. After warming up it blows coolant all over and no real idea where from. It appears to be around the passenger side but it doesnt look like it's from the main hose. I'm getting to wonder if the radiator has a hole some where and considering trying some stop leak

Also when it gets warm it also starts having the oil light come on when idle so blah

 
Go to your local chain auto parts store and "rent" their coolant pressure tester. The cap is spec'd at 13lbs, so pump it up and see what's going on.

Put a mechanical gauge on the engine and see what you have for real numbers. You'll have to pull the sender by the fuel pump. I have a swap meet find pressure gauge with a piece of steel line and the appropriate NPT fitting for just this purpose.

 
Well I didnt go rent a pressure tester instead I just blew air into the radiator through the overflow. Instantly coolant started shooting out the passenger side of the radiator. It's by the hose but its bot coming from the hose. Its sprays like a mist right out of the top row. Time to order a new radiator

 
Glad you found the leak. Here local, there is a shop that repairs radiators, not sure of the price of a new radiator but it may be worth your time to see about a repair and pressure test at a local shop there. Although, you are probably better off just getting a new one but I would pressure test the new one prior to installing it, I went through three new radiators on my BMW because all the new ones leaked. Good luck.

Tom

 
Glad you found the leak. Here local, there is a shop that repairs radiators, not sure of the price of a new radiator but it may be worth your time to see about a repair and pressure test at a local shop there. Although, you are probably better off just getting a new one but I would pressure test the new one prior to installing it, I went through three new radiators on my BMW because all the new ones leaked. Good luck.

Tom
It's probably due. I got a 3 row aluminum.off Amazon for $169

 
Just by chance your post gave me info I was going to look for today, lol. I have a 73 vert 351 C with C-4 that is leaking. Only made 2 verts with Cleveland and C-4 Marti says. Mine was put in by PO had FMX from Ford.

Anyway I was adding a fan cooled transmission cooler also.

What a pain to change the shift seal.

 
As always, 1 step forward 2 steps back..

New radiator is in but the car isnt idling well and stalls when put in gear. I'm assuming I either have a vacuum leak or ignition issue. Especially given my last experience with points.

Next steps:

Replace leaky valve covers

Replace Spark Plugs

Install Petronix

Replace pcv and vacuum advance hoses

 
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