911 request feedback please

[Cleveland Crush]

Thanks for everyone's feedback, very much appreciated. Happy to say all wiring made it thru unscathed. New alternator is in and waiting for new battery.
For those interested, I'm digging into the troubled alternator (only 3 years old about 3 thousand miles- some very high RPM's at times though) it's not a pretty sight:

 

[351c1971]

Cleveland Crush, hope your damage is minimal and you are back on the road soon.”

Question for the team. any opinions on the solid state vs the mechanical voltage regulator?

 

[Stanglover]

Cleveland Crush, hope your damage is minimal and you are back on the road soon.”

Question for the team. any opinions on the solid state vs the mechanical voltage regulator?

I have an original style alternator, may even be the original? I switched to a solid state regulator a few years back and never had a problem. The one I bought was from Virginia Mustangs and came in the blue with a somewhat correct label.

 

[Stanglover]

Thanks for everyone's feedback, very much appreciated. Happy to say all wiring made it thru unscathed. New alternator is in and waiting for new battery.
For those interested, I'm digging into the troubled alternator (only 3 years old about 3 thousand miles- some very high RPM's at times though) it's not a pretty sight:

"Made in China" ?????

 

[Cleveland Crush]

"Made in China" ?????

Bought it from "PA Performance" (95amp) was under the impression USA made but not sure.

 

[Stanglover]

I have found parts that has "Made in USA or Canada" only to find it's really just assembled here from parts from elsewhere, so it's a play on words.
As for the regulator pic, sorry that was an old one. Here is the solid state I bought from Virginia Mustangs. Not sure where that was made!

 

[351c1971]

Thanks for the feedback on the voltage regulator. I found a Motorcraft GR540B solid state regulator on Amazon and will add it to spare parts inventory.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Hmm. What were you listening to on the radio?

For all of those who rolled your eyes at my "Sreeching radio" description when my alternator self distructed (shall not mention any names Sheriff ) I submit the following tech article:

An engine-speed related ‘whine’ or ‘whistle’ sound in any radio or audio equipment in the automobile is another symptom of bad, maybe some open, rectifier diodes.

Autozone has some useful circuit diagrams and exploded mechanical assembly drawings here: | Repair Guides | Engine Electrical | Alternator | AutoZone.com

Simple ohmmeter readings on the alternator rectifier diodes are hard to use because the output stator windings (Y-connection) are low resistance and all the diodes are connected together through the windings (also the diodes connect to each other through the ground or through the Positive+output

 

[Stanglover]

For all of those who rolled your eyes at my "Sreeching radio" description when my alternator self distructed (shall not mention any names Sheriff ) I submit the following tech article:

An engine-speed related ‘whine’ or ‘whistle’ sound in any radio or audio equipment in the automobile is another symptom of bad, maybe some open, rectifier diodes.

Autozone has some useful circuit diagrams and exploded mechanical assembly drawings here: | Repair Guides | Engine Electrical | Alternator | AutoZone.com

Simple ohmmeter readings on the alternator rectifier diodes are hard to use because the output stator windings (Y-connection) are low resistance and all the diodes are connected together through the windings (also the diodes connect to each other through the ground or through the Positive+output

You got me lost.
Glad you're getting it all sorted though. Things like this are a cause for much frustration.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

You got me lost.
Glad you're getting it all sorted though. Things like this are a cause for much frustration.

Just messing around Stanglover. Many of us never experienced the nasty feedback thru speakers when an alternator goes bad. It's a VERY loud pitched whine. Good natured feedback to the Sheriff!
Take Care!
Chris

 

[Stanglover]

Just messing around Stanglover. Many of us never experienced the nasty feedback thru speakers when an alternator goes bad. It's a VERY loud pitched whine. Good natured feedback to the Sheriff!
Take Care!
Chris

All good Chris, No worries here.

 

[Ron Tanzi]

It would not blame this alternator failure on Tom Petty. He is/was a force for good not evil.

Ron

 

[Sheriff41]

It would not blame this alternator failure on Tom Petty. He is/was a force for good not evil.

Ron

I dunno, he may have been singing his hit song "Breakdown".

 

[mrgmhale]

So sorry you experienced this situation. Funny how at AutoZone off-board test the alternator voltage was not abnormal. I was surprised at the wear debris art the rear armature and brush area. I feel your decision to replace the alternator with its internal regulator is reasonable, FWIW. For our 1969 GT500 and both 73 Mustangs, I opted to use first generation alternators with external regulators. The GT500 and Mach 1 both have electronic regulators. The 73 vert has only 21,000 or so original miles on it (barn stored over 40 years, literally), and its voltage regulator is the original electro-mechanical unit. Both 73 Mustang alternators have been rebuilt, whether needed or not, where I opted to swap in high amperage components (more rotor windings) in order to boost their amperage output. I figured of the higher output level is not able to keep up with the electrical loads I would go to a single wire alternator solution. So far there has been no need no move to a 3G alternator (whew), which I am glad for as the 1G units are performing perfectly well.

I any event, I am glad you shared this situation as it brought out some great suggestions. It is always nice to see folks chiming in with such great info. If nothing else it bolsters/reaffirms my outlook on many of the suggestions. That said, I personally like the 1G alternator/regulator setups, just because for the most part they work well enough for my electrical needs, and I retain the factory wiring per schematics. Less grief for whoever ends up taking the reins for these nice cars years (better yet, decades) from now. As it is I need to update the wiring schematics on both 73 Mustangs to show the dual electric fan circuitry, and other non-standard wiring (LED taillights, GPS with wireless rear backup camera), center console Power Panel., etc.

My hat is off to you and our fellow colleagues in this forum who pitched in their thoughts and suggestions.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

So sorry you experienced this situation. Funny how at AutoZone off-board test the alternator voltage was not abnormal. I was surprised at the wear debris art the rear armature and brush area. I feel your decision to replace the alternator with its internal regulator is reasonable, FWIW. For our 1969 GT500 and both 73 Mustangs, I opted to use first generation alternators with external regulators. The GT500 and Mach 1 both have electronic regulators. The 73 vert has only 21,000 or so original miles on it (barn stored over 40 years, literally), and its voltage regulator is the original electro-mechanical unit. Both 73 Mustang alternators have been rebuilt, whether needed or not, where I opted to swap in high amperage components (more rotor windings) in order to boost their amperage output. I figured of the higher output level is not able to keep up with the electrical loads I would go to a single wire alternator solution. So far there has been no need no move to a 3G alternator (whew), which I am glad for as the 1G units are performing perfectly well.

I any event, I am glad you shared this situation as it brought out some great suggestions. It is always nice to see folks chiming in with such great info. If nothing else it bolsters/reaffirms my outlook on many of the suggestions. That said, I personally like the 1G alternator/regulator setups, just because for the most part they work well enough for my electrical needs, and I retain the factory wiring per schematics. Less grief for whoever ends up taking the reins for these nice cars years (better yet, decades) from now. As it is I need to update the wiring schematics on both 73 Mustangs to show the dual electric fan circuitry, and other non-standard wiring (LED taillights, GPS with wireless rear backup camera), center console Power Panel., etc.

My hat is off to you and our fellow colleagues in this forum who pitched in their thoughts and suggestions.

Just as an interesting side note Mr. Hale: All of the many years I've run the 1g alternators never had any problem with them. Currently been running a 3g on my 1972 about 5-6 years and am now on my 3rd one! First one- it's internal fan broke loose and tore it's internals up. Second one (just last week) smoke started to pour out of it and started pumping out 16+ volts. Hope for better success with this one!

 

[Steve McMahan]

Oh, I thought that scream was you Cleveland, fearing the worse. Ok, we’ll say it was the Alt

 

[Cleveland Crush]

So it's been a week since my breakdown/tow 30 miles from home last week. In order to redeem my Mustang's pride (and mine) just now I drove back to the exact breakdown location AND drove an additional 20 miles for good measure. Stang is running sweet. This is my version of "Ferris Bueller's Day Off"!