Added Grille Lights

[cwalker509]

I added the deluxe Mach 1 grille while using the wiring harness for a standard grille. This is how I did it. I did not want to splice into the existing harness if I did not absolutely have to. Note I switched to LED headlights that draw less than original. If retaining the original style headlights I would say a relay is a must. The splice into the headlight wires would be used as the signal for the relays to power on the grille lights. I made an extension using H4 9003 HB2 sockets (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B098JW7VZX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

I used a 3 pin connector tapped into the headlight extension to feed the harness for each grille light. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QDS5DKR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

The grille connector is a repurposed 3157 LED socket modified to fit into the grille light housing. I cut the tabs. The rubber grommet that came with the LED sockets was too thick/stiff to allow installation. I had some Dorman connectors (which I would recommend if not for interference that I had) which are longer and use a foam seal/grommet. So I used the foam ones and they fit. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09KXM62Y4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

This is nowhere near concourse correct but not much in my engine compartment is so if this helps someone great!

 

[Stanglover]

Chris, this is useful information. But not for what you are intending to do. I want to look at adding "Daylight Running Lights", DLR's, into the front grill lamps. These would be (probably) either connected directly into a keyed hot wire or relayed. I have a set of lamps I can adapt by adding a second set of LED bulbs, keeping the originals in place which are wired into the light circuit. I don't want anything permanent so using the spare set of lamps would be ideal.
Thanks for the info.

 

[cwalker509]

Chris, this is useful information. But not for what you are intending to do. I want to look at adding "Daylight Running Lights", DLR's, into the front grill lamps. These would be (probably) either connected directly into a keyed hot wire or relayed. I have a set of lamps I can adapt by adding a second set of LED bulbs, keeping the originals in place which are wired into the light circuit. I don't want anything permanent so using the spare set of lamps would be ideal.
Thanks for the info.

You could use the 3157 LED and socket since it has 2 elements in it but it would be amber from the grille lights. Is that what it after?. Have one come on when the headlights are on and the other into a keyed or switched scenario as you describe. I am curious how bright the low setting is on the bulb. I have not checked at night.

This would require a lot of relays maybe but you could use hi and lo headlight signal to drive just one element of the 3157 that way it would be on whenever the headlights are on. Then do as I suggested above? I looked up the brightness. 3157 is 402 high and 38 low so a pretty big difference. I may be switching things up and adding relays?

 

[Stanglover]

You could use the 3157 LED and socket since it has 2 elements in it but it would be amber from the grille lights. Is that what it after?. Have one come on when the headlights are on and the other into a keyed or switched scenario as you describe. I am curious how bright the low setting is on the bulb. I have not checked at night.

This would require a lot of relays maybe but you could use hi and lo headlight signal to drive just one element of the 3157 that way it would be on whenever the headlights are on. Then do as I suggested above? I looked up the brightness. 3157 is 402 high and 38 low so a pretty big difference. I may be switching things up and adding relays?

That's worth considering Chris. However, the current bulb sockets are not grounded directly, but through the wiring. I'm far from being an electrical 'guy', but I'm open to all suggestions and ideas. Who knows, other might also be thinking of running DRL's.
In Ontario and no doubt in the US as well, DRL's are on all newer vehicles, so drivers expect to see them, meaning vehicles without them tend to be less visible and more prone to head on crashes. There is one thing on this subject I wish was an industry standard and that is ALL DRL's be the same color, either white or amber and also be a standard type and size, but that I guess, would screw up the styling guys!!
Thanks for your input and comments.
By the way, you did a great job of solving your particular problem.

 

[cv_72mustang]

Interesting topic. Per state law due to how my car is registered, I'm only able to drive my car during the day. Which is ok.

Lately I've gotten spooked with people not seeing my car when I drive. So I've been driving with the lower valance lights on, but these are near the road surface and dim. Was thinking how I could use my grill lamps to light without the using my headlight without hacking of my lamps also.

 

[cwalker509]

Interesting topic. Per state law due to how my car is registered, I'm only able to drive my car during the day. Which is ok.

Lately I've gotten spooked with people not seeing my car when I drive. So I've been driving with the lower valance lights on, but these are near the road surface and dim. Was thinking how I could use my grill lamps to light without the using my headlight without hacking of my lamps also.

Probably the easiest way is to have an ignition signalled or key on driven relay driving the bulbs so they are always on. Fabricate a new harness using the 3156 sockets and just today I learned amber bulbs should be used behind an amber lens for max visibility. If you have the stock grille light harness then you cap and stow the connectors to keep crap from getting in the connectors. This also allows you to return to the stock configuration without hacking up your original harness.

 

[cwalker509]

That's worth considering Chris. However, the current bulb sockets are not grounded directly, but through the wiring. I'm far from being an electrical 'guy', but I'm open to all suggestions and ideas. Who knows, other might also be thinking of running DRL's.
In Ontario and no doubt in the US as well, DRL's are on all newer vehicles, so drivers expect to see them, meaning vehicles without them tend to be less visible and more prone to head on crashes. There is one thing on this subject I wish was an industry standard and that is ALL DRL's be the same color, either white or amber and also be a standard type and size, but that I guess, would screw up the styling guys!!
Thanks for your input and comments.
By the way, you did a great job of solving your particular problem.

The LED sockets also ground thru the wiring. The black wire provides that. You could run that directly to the rad support or splice into the harness ground via the splice extension used at the headlights.

 

[Stanglover]

Interesting topic. Per state law due to how my car is registered, I'm only able to drive my car during the day. Which is ok.

Lately I've gotten spooked with people not seeing my car when I drive. So I've been driving with the lower valance lights on, but these are near the road surface and dim. Was thinking how I could use my grill lamps to light without the using my headlight without hacking of my lamps also.

I've done the same thing using the lower lamps, but then the rear lights are on as well and that may confuse people behind. However, I don't understand why you can only drive in daylight. I know the US has some weird laws, but that doesn't make any sense to me.
What I need to do is find the best and easiest way to splice in a relay if need be, to power the LED "extra" bulbs. But that just gave me another thought. As the grill lights will be on all the time, we don't need the headlight circuit grill lights anymore and could be temporarily (or permanently) terminated.
Head scratching time I guess!!

 

[Stanglover]

Probably the easiest way is to have an ignition signalled or key on driven relay driving the bulbs so they are always on. Fabricate a new harness using the 3156 sockets and just today I learned amber bulbs should be used behind an amber lens for max visibility. If you have the stock grille light harness then you cap and stow the connectors to keep crap from getting in the connectors. This also allows you to return to the stock configuration without hacking up your original harness.

That's an excellent suggestion, thank you.
I think I/we are all thinking along the same lines now.
It is a pity however that members with standard grills won't be able to tap into this idea.
That said, there might be a way to add DRL's by utilizing conversion headlight lamps that have a secondary bulb built in. I know I've seen these while I was researching my LED headlight conversion, which is also a very worthwhile upgrade.
Actually thinking about it, that might be a better solution and really not that hard to do. Hmmm, time to get the thinking cap on!!
Boy, are we off script again eh!

 

[cv_72mustang]

I live in PA and my state 'offers' a variety of registration options for your car after a certain number of years. In the US every state has their own vehicle registration and inspection laws.

It's registered as an antique since putting it back on the road. With this type of registration I don't need yearly state inspections along with yearly fees. And you're correct I could just could convert and be done with it. The issue is sometimes I get caught driving at dusk and need the headlights to get home. I get bull shitting with my buddies a few miles away on a nice warm night and then need to rush home like a criminal. LOL

 

[Stanglover]

I found this Hella H4 lamp that has a "position bulb" built in. I'll order one and take a look at it. It may take a while to get it, slow delivery time, but a possibility. I think it will need modifying so the second bulb works as a DRL. It's worth a try.
Sorry, the link I found shows some of my personal info. so look for Hella 002395071 7" H4 headlight with position bulb.

 

[Stanglover]

I live in PA and my state 'offers' a variety of registration options for your car after a certain number of years. In the US every state has their own vehicle registration and inspection laws.

It's registered as an antique since putting it back on the road. With this type of registration I don't need yearly state inspections along with yearly fees. And you're correct I could just could convert and be done with it. The issue is sometimes I get caught driving at dusk and need the headlights to get home. I get bull shitting with my buddies a few miles away on a nice warm night and then need to rush home like a criminal. LOL

I've got to admit, that is strange to say the least!! An unbelievable "law" to say the least.
I get that you want to bypass the yearly inspection, but not being able to drive at dusk or night is totally ridiculous. Do the state "idiots" think the car might fall apart after dark??

 

[cv_72mustang]

Stanglover:

My guess, if I got stopped and police see a 70 year old man driving, on a nice summer night, the
top down, listening to some tunes and smiling, he just would be jealous..... and then give me a ticket!!! Welcome to 'You're a got friend in PA' LOL

Tony

 

[Mark Jones]

So glad I had time to roam through all the posts. I have been buying every pigtail/socket I can find, and nothing fits the Mach1 grill light (Sport Light) housing. I am so excited finding out that these 3157 sockets will fit the grill light housings. I placed the order today with Amazon. I think I will use the 3 wire sockets and connect the second light to the turn signal wiring so the grill lights can flash with the turn signals. The forum comes through for me again!