Alternator cable, which one?

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
461
Reaction score
1
Location
Morris County, NJ
My Car
1971 Conv; 1 of 17; 351C, 2V, Auto
Need to order a new alternator cable.

There are two available; one for cars with gauges and one for cars without gauges.

Since I will be adding gauges soon should I order the cable for the car with gauges?

Will it work with my current wiring.

 
Did you ask CJ Pony parts or another vendor? I replaced the wiring in my sprint which does not have the guages. My Mach1 has guages so I'd have to look at both to see what the difference is. CJ's website may have a picture of both.

 
Need to order a new alternator cable.

There are two available; one for cars with gauges and one for cars without gauges.

Since I will be adding gauges soon should I order the cable for the car with gauges?

Will it work with my current wiring.
Boy, this is a tough question. The main headlight harnesses are the same, except for the leads for the ammeter lines (gauges) and one extra large wire for the battery solenoid split-off (not the solenoid itself). The headlight harness interfaces with a single wire on the alternator harness, but its signal from the main underdash harness is different, depending upon whether you have gauges (tach) or not (no tach). Based upon that, I would say that no, you cannot use a gauge-version alternator harness with a non-gauge underdash harness. The alternator harness interfaces with the Voltage Regulator, where the lines are different (idiot light for non-tach dash) and ammeter (tach/gauges).

 
Need to order a new alternator cable.

There are two available; one for cars with gauges and one for cars without gauges.

Since I will be adding gauges soon should I order the cable for the car with gauges?

Will it work with my current wiring.
Boy, this is a tough question. The main headlight harnesses are the same, except for the leads for the ammeter lines (gauges) and one extra large wire for the battery solenoid split-off (not the solenoid itself). The headlight harness interfaces with a single wire on the alternator harness, but its signal from the main underdash harness is different, depending upon whether you have gauges (tach) or not (no tach). Based upon that, I would say that no, you cannot use a gauge-version alternator harness with a non-gauge underdash harness. The alternator harness interfaces with the Voltage Regulator, where the lines are different (idiot light for non-tach dash) and ammeter (tach/gauges).
Since I am only adding the gauges next week, should I order the instrument one or the standard one; I will be adding the ammeter.

 
If you add the gauges with a non-tach/non-gauge alternator harness, your battery will charge, your ammeter won't work, and your oil pressure sending unit will need to be changed, along with re-wiring the underdash harness.

If you add the gauges with a tach/gauge alternator harness, your charging system won't work, you'll need to change the headlight harness, and still re-wire the underdash harness for the gauges.

If you keep what you have for the time being, order the non-gauge alternator harness. You can install (but not wire) the 3 gauges until you upgrade your dash cluster, main harness and headlight harness. If you have one of those clusters with only the clock (no idiot lights), you'll still need to re-wire the underdash harness and replace the headlight harness.

You can PM or e-mail me for more details as to the pro's and con's.

 
Back
Top