Bent cross member?

[MAD IRISHMAN]

Made an attempt to install (temporarily to check header fitment) the new engine in my '72 Mach1. The oil pan is a Milodon with a kicked out sump. According to Milodon it should clear the cross member under the engine in a stock chassis. But in this case it's a no-go. Back of pan needs about 1/4" of space between it and the front edge where there are pinch welds. While I was prepping to "cut and paste" the member for more room I noticed a ding in the top side at the rear. Probably had a hook on it at some point in its life for whatever reason. It appears that the whole thing looks like it has pushed forward causing my clearance issue. Would appreciate input from the chassis aficionados out there.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

I run the exact Milodon pan on mine. I have about 3/8" to 1/2" clearance at the crossmember.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Made an attempt to install (temporarily to check header fitment) the new engine in my '72 Mach1. The oil pan is a Milodon with a kicked out sump. According to Milodon it should clear the cross member under the engine in a stock chassis. But in this case it's a no-go. Back of pan needs about 1/4" of space between it and the front edge where there are pinch welds. While I was prepping to "cut and paste" the member for more room I noticed a ding in the top side at the rear. Probably had a hook on it at some point in its life for whatever reason. It appears that the whole thing looks like it has pushed forward causing my clearance issue. Would appreciate input from the chassis aficionados out there.

An additional note Irishman: Since these Milodon pans run so close to the cross member ensure the pan drain plug is not catching/holding up on the crossmember preventing the engine to drop home and mount. It's happened to me!

 

[detritusmaximus]

Definitely looks like it got pulled and bent. Maybe out of a ditch?

I have one in a parts car I could cut out if yours can't be straightened.

 

[rvrtrash]

If you take it to a body shop with a frame machine, they should be able to pull that back into place.

 

[Hemikiller]

Yeah, that is definitely bent forward. It should be straight across. Might be able to move it back where it belongs with a portapower braced off the strut rod crossmember.

 

[basstrix]

Agree that it appears to be pulled forward and should be able to push it back in place. Be sure to check wheel alignment.

On another note, I like your fender blankets. Where did you get them?

 

[MAD IRISHMAN]

Definitely looks like it got pulled and bent. Maybe out of a ditch?

I have one in a parts car I could cut out if yours can't be straightened.

It may have been pulled out of a ditch or the like. From what I've been able to gather from the car's history, it was wrecked at one time. Right side quarter, door and fender were replaced. The previous owner that I bought it from said he met the body man that repaired it

Agree that it appears to be pulled forward and should be able to push it back in place. Be sure to check wheel alignment.

On another note, I like your fender blankets. Where did you get them?

for some other previous owner who was a squirrel. He recognized the clear coat paint on the new sheet metal and where it was blended in on the roof. The insurance company wouldn't pay for painting the whole roof.

The fender covers were made by a gentleman named M.J. Quinn in Louisville, Ky He sold them under the brand name "Derby City Covers" The first one I bought for my 1988 Mustang Stocker is still going strong after 20+ years of constant usage. Alas M.J. shut his business down a couple of years ago and retired. He told the one for my '72 one of the last ones he made.

 

[MAD IRISHMAN]

OK so computer savvy I'm not! LOL. Thanks to everyone for all the helpful suggestions. I just found out my mentor in all things relating to cars and race cars has a power pack he can lend me. (I'm already borrowing his trans-jack to hold the C6 while I trial fit the engine.) So after I post this I am heading down to Chuck's to pick it up! Hopefully be able to put things back in place later today.

 

[MAD IRISHMAN]

Well the power pack was a bust. It leaked like a sieve after sitting unused for 25+ years.
Plus, the cross-member was twisted as well as bent. After trying initially to trim the cross-member to clearance the pan it was “no can do”. This car is for my own enjoyment not a restoration with original stuff. I decided a new, user friendly cross-member was in order. Used a 1.625” wall 4130 Chrome Moly tube left over from a roll bar project. Used mild steel plate to block of ends of remaining cross-member and mounting tabs. Also added a plate to the tube for future jacking of the front end. I can’t get the car outside to use my MIG welder. MIG welding in my shop is a conflagration waiting to happen. So, it was TIG time. Trying to weld factory galvanized metal to uncoated metal is no fun. But got it done with some less than pretty weldments. But as my welding instructor said back in the day “pretty isn’t what counts”.
FINALLY, I got the motor installed, trans attached, and headers put on. Going to have to do a little “heat & ding” clearance work on the headers around a couple bolt holes. I see what people were talking about
with the small amount of clearance with the steering box. Probably address that as well.

 

[vintageman]

Well the power pack was a bust. It leaked like a sieve after sitting unused for 25+ years.
Plus, the cross-member was twisted as well as bent. After trying initially to trim the cross-member to clearance the pan it was “no can do”. This car is for my own enjoyment not a restoration with original stuff. I decided a new, user friendly cross-member was in order. Used a 1.625” wall 4130 Chrome Moly tube left over from a roll bar project. Used mild steel plate to block of ends of remaining cross-member and mounting tabs. Also added a plate to the tube for future jacking of the front end. I can’t get the car outside to use my MIG welder. MIG welding in my shop is a conflagration waiting to happen. So, it was TIG time. Trying to weld factory galvanized metal to uncoated metal is no fun. But got it done with some less than pretty weldments. But as my welding instructor said back in the day “pretty isn’t what counts”.
FINALLY, I got the motor installed, trans attached, and headers put on. Going to have to do a little “heat & ding” clearance work on the headers around a couple bolt holes. I see what people were talking about
with the small amount of clearance with the steering box. Probably address that as well.

Great job Irish, I had a fun time getting my headers to fit around the steering box as well. It took about 6-8 test fittings after the hammer use to get it to fit properly.

Good luck

Tom

 

[Vern Cook]

A really interesting solution. Talk about thinking outside the box. I just took a photo of mine in situ and it seems to be a little less prominent than your galvanized pipe. It is a little bit recessed from the front and chamfered on the top. I'm just wondering if its like that to facilitate the engine and the sump.
Just thought I would throw it in for consideration.
Vern

 

[MAD IRISHMAN]

A really interesting solution. Talk about thinking outside the box. I just took a photo of mine in situ and it seems to be a little less prominent than your galvanized pipe. It is a little bit recessed from the front and chamfered on the top. I'm just wondering if its like that to facilitate the engine and the sump.
Just thought I would throw it in for consideration.
V

Great job Irish, I had a fun time getting my headers to fit around the steering box as well. It took about 6-8 test fittings after the hammer use to get it to fit properly.

Good luck

Tom

Ah yes the favorite tool of anyone who works on Fords!

 

[MAD IRISHMAN]

A really interesting solution. Talk about thinking outside the box. I just took a photo of mine in situ and it seems to be a little less prominent than your galvanized pipe. It is a little bit recessed from the front and chamfered on the top. I'm just wondering if its like that to facilitate the engine and the sump.
Just thought I would throw it in for consideration.
Vern


View attachment 90943

Yes the cross-member is sloped to clear the pan. It's where the transition from the front sump to the rear of the pan.

 

[Vern Cook]

Nice!