- Joined
- Nov 22, 2012
- Messages
- 31
- Reaction score
- 2
- Location
- Northern VA
- My Car
- 1973 Mach-1 (my first car)
1972 GT-351 Mexican Boss
Hoping there are some electrical pro's that can answer this one for me. I will keep it as short and to the point as I can.
The factory temp gauge has only worked about 5-10% of the time in the last two years. Here is what I have done so far.
- Changed the temp sender
- New wiring harness from the senders to the fire wall.
-Tried a spare set of gauges
-Grounded the temp lead and the gauge will go quickly to full hot. (from what I have read that means that the wiring, instrument voltage regulator and gauge are good)
- Around 5.5V behind the gauge and 0.5v at the sender.
-I am wondering if my new sender is bad or not grounded correctly. So I purchases two new Motorcraft Senders. One has a green insulator around the post SW-2328 and one has a red insulator SW-925. See the picture.
So which one should I put in? This is my Mexican 1972 GT-351 with a factory 351W.
What other tests should I preform?
Any thing else need to be replaced?
Thanks in advance for the advice
Rich
The factory temp gauge has only worked about 5-10% of the time in the last two years. Here is what I have done so far.
- Changed the temp sender
- New wiring harness from the senders to the fire wall.
-Tried a spare set of gauges
-Grounded the temp lead and the gauge will go quickly to full hot. (from what I have read that means that the wiring, instrument voltage regulator and gauge are good)
- Around 5.5V behind the gauge and 0.5v at the sender.
-I am wondering if my new sender is bad or not grounded correctly. So I purchases two new Motorcraft Senders. One has a green insulator around the post SW-2328 and one has a red insulator SW-925. See the picture.
So which one should I put in? This is my Mexican 1972 GT-351 with a factory 351W.
What other tests should I preform?
Any thing else need to be replaced?
Thanks in advance for the advice
Rich