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Cam and/or ignition timing way off can cause rapid and over heating. However, my first check would be to make sure the thermostat is installed correctly and warm it up to make sure it opens.

Have you connected a vacuum gauge and cranked it without trying to start it? When it does run briefly did you check the vacuum?

Are the lifters full of oil? You may not be able to set the lash, if not. Pull the distributor and prime the oil pump so the lifters fill up. Re-prime it periodically to keep the lifters full. Settings lash on collapsed lifters may hold the valves open as they fill up, when running. It's not always easy to feel the contact and load on the valve train from just the internal spring pressure on the lifters.

 
Great Questions.

1) Vacuum, no I have not checked vacuum during cranking or starting.  I may try that the next go.

2) The Thermostat was new, but I probably ought to pull it for now.  -Good suggestion_

3) Lifters were soaked in oil before assembly.  Engine was primed until I saw good flow in the the heads and rockers, indicating the lifters were not dry and were flowing through the push rods.

4)  The last valve lash adjustments was done after the initial start.  When it is running at any speed the oil pressure guage in the interior is riding in the upper 1/4 of travel.

The loose plugs has me wondering.  Any thoughts on the impact there?

kcmash

 
It depends on how loose they were. If they were bottomed out when finger tightening, probably not much effect, until and unless they started backing out when it was running. The further out, the more likely the engine started running leaner, which will also cause over heating. However, they do need to be out quite a ways before they seriously affect mixture or compression. Very little air can bypass the threads when compared to the overall volume of the chamber.

 
Thermostat is out.

Plugs are back in and tight.

Vacuum advance vacuum line is reconnected.

Confidence in success is low.....

Do people on this forum think I should use a different valve lash philosophy(Adjustable arms)?  Here are my options.

1) I currently have them set using the "remove all lash, tighten another 1/2 turn and lock in place" method.

2) I could go with a "remove all play/lash from the valve and lock it there.'  This would allow the lifters to pump up and remove any further lash, but could affect rocker oiling by limiting the crush on the lifter that sends oil up top.

3) Sell the whole getup since I am out of patience......

kcmash

 
Success!!!   Ran for 30 Minutes today to break her in.  I'll try to post the before and after videos.

OK.  I don't know how to post a video here.


 
Last edited by a moderator:
What did you do that enabled it to run? Your solution may help someone else.

By the way, good job.
Click to expand...
What did I do.  As I stated in teh 11/25 post, I checked compression on all cylinders and made sure it was good.  I then removed the thermostat, and replaced the radiator cap to make sure I addressed the temperature problem.  Popped the distributor cap to check rotor position compared to my crankshaft timing mark.  It looked like I was advanced quite a ways, so I retarded it about 10 degrees and found that was one of my problems.  So what all has got in the way of my start day?

1)  I started with a bad fuel pump the first time, so i was having fuel problems.  Replaced the fuel pump.

2) Found that I had loose plugs at all the cylinders, so I tightened them after doing the compression check.

3) Double(and Triple) checked the valve lash settings,

4) Found the correct place for the timing.

Next up?  Change the break in oil and try to figure out why my brakes won't stop leaking at the proportioning valve.  Once I have the brakes figured out I will try to move her under her own power for the first time in 18 years.  I guess I will set idle and timing first.

Anything else I can share?  I'm pretty stoked about this success.

kcmash

 
One more question. How do I know if I trashed or "wiped my cam" during all of my start attempts?

2 do I add the EP additive to oil for ever more with a non roller cam?

kcmash

 
One more question.  How do I know if I trashed or "wiped my cam" during all of my start attempts?

2 do I add the EP additive to oil for ever more with a non roller cam?

It will run like crap if you wipe a cam.

I prefer to run oil with  high zinc in all older V8s , I use valoline VR1 10W30.

Its easy to get and it works from mild to wild engines. 
Click to expand...
 
One more question.  How do I know if I trashed or "wiped my cam" during all of my start attempts?

2 do I add the EP additive to oil for ever more with a non roller cam?

It will run like crap if you wipe a cam.

I prefer to run oil with  high zinc in all older V8s , I use valoline VR1 10W30.

Its easy to get and it works from mild to wild engines. 
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
I use the same VR1. If you can't find the non-synthetic locally you can buy it on amazon.

 
It seemed to be running fine when I ran it.  I had the idle at about 1300 RPM, but if you listen to the exhaust portion of my video it sounds like it was pretty even and clean,

Thanks for the oil recommendations.

kcmash

 
I have been away.......so it was nice to see this. I knew YOU KNEW what you were doing, as stated you had done other engines.

Hope I didn't "confuse" the issue with valve timing discussion. Looks like JUST RECHECKING your work was the key. I"m sure you were very worried about the cam , sounds good. Brake in is normally , fire (with correct timing) and take RPM to 2500, keeping it there for 15 min varing RPM between 2000 and 3000. (My guess is you never got to do that as it didn't run)

Glad we talked

Mark

P.S. BTW CAR LOOKS GREAT!

 
I have been away.......so it was nice to see this.    I knew YOU KNEW what you were doing, as stated you had done other engines.

Hope I didn't "confuse" the issue with valve timing discussion.   Looks like JUST RECHECKING your work was the key.    I"m sure you were very worried about the cam  , sounds good.   Brake in is normally , fire (with correct timing) and take RPM to 2500, keeping it there for 15 min varing RPM between 2000 and 3000.   (My guess is you never got to do that as it didn't run)

Glad we talked

Mark

P.S.  BTW CAR LOOKS GREAT!
Click to expand...
Actually I did just that.  When she started I brought her to 2000 RPM and varied 2k to 3k for 30 minutes.  The video clip I pasted above was after the 30 minutes and before I shut it down for the day.

Thanks for the compliment.  Trying to get her together and not make it look worse.

kcmash

 
View attachment 39332View attachment 39331First Oil change today!  Forgot how easy it is to change on a rear wheel drive classic!!

Now my damn proportioning valve leak.  I believe it is where the top line enters the valve.  The line comes from the rear of the Master cylinder into the top of the proportioning valve. Any ideas on how to seal that area?

 
OK, today was a planned "maiden voyage day" for the mach before I start assembling the front clip.

Last year's gas.

Got it to start.

Runs with a little roughness.

No Air cleaner installed

Got it running fairly smooth

After about 3-5 minutes she wants to die pretty easy and has a roughness to the engine.  Almost like a miss on one cylinder, but I am unsure.  Could be a vacuum problem.

My temp gage is not working, so I have no idea on the temp.  Oil pressure is good.

Milestone:  I was able to drive it into the garage for the first time in a loooooooooooooong time.

 

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