Waking up a 6

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Joined
Mar 11, 2024
Messages
8
Reaction score
6
Location
AZ
My Car
72 convertible 6cyl, 3 speed
Thanks again for the welcome.
After spending some time under the hood yesterday I’ve noticed several issues that I would like to address as follows;
Carburetion, Carter RBS;
1 The idle solenoid is slow and the wire is broken at the solenoid. Where can I get a replacement? And do I really need one?

2. The factory choke is non functional. Ive ordered an electric choke from Mikes Carburetors. Any thoughts?

3. The factory dizzy is still in place. I was thinking of replacing it with an HEI unit. Will a large cap unit clear the power steering bracket?Thoughts?

4. Ignition timing. With the HEI can I bump up the initial timing a bit? And would this help to alleviate run on thereby reducing the need for the above mentioned solenoid?
Thanks in advance for all of your time.

Regards,
AZragtop
 

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Instead of messing with an HEI system, consider using a Pertronix Ignitor. It mounts inside the stock distributor and requires only a minor wiring change. MUCH easier and cleaner than trying to fit a different system. I have them in my '72 Mustang and '73 F100 pickup and they've never let me down. Consider adding their Flamethrower coil, too.
 
The Pertronix Ignitor I with matching coil is the easiest way as it runs on reduced voltage, same as points. A PII needs a full 12 volts, but can easily be run of a relay. Always use matching coils and a good set of plug wires. Spiral wound copper 8mm would be a good set.
The downside of using the stock distributor is recurving if necessary, but start at the same point as factory degrees.
That HEI stuff look ridiculous!!
 
I'm currently running a Pertronix 1 with stock yellow top coil. I did have to add a resistor.
 
HEI is un-needed and is "double bagger ugly". As others have said, a pertronix I will get the job done for your application. Every older car I've owned benefitted from 4-6 degrees more initial advance. Does the engine run-on now? If so, what is the idle speed? More initial advance won't stop run-on if it happening. The idle solenoids are out there but can be expensive for what they are. Chuck
 
HEI is un-needed and is "double bagger ugly". As others have said, a pertronix I will get the job done for your application. Every older car I've owned benefitted from 4-6 degrees more initial advance. Does the engine run-on now? If so, what is the idle speed? More initial advance won't stop run-on if it happening. The idle solenoids are out there but can be expensive for what they are. Chuck
 
The HEI is definitely a no go. I did repair the solenoid and it works well. Initial timing is set to 8 degrees. No run on. Vacuum retard disabled. 625 idle rpm with idle screw and solenoid backed all the way out. Vacuum leak perhaps?
All in all she runs well, and we’ll be putting her to the test with a 700 mile road-trip next week.
 
If you've got a stock tach for the 6cyl, deal me in.
The 6cyl takes so long to rev, you could get away with using a chalk board to write down how fast you thought the engine was running.

I had a 1972 250 6cyl. If you had a tach on that one, it could spend its whole life and never need the top 75% of the tach.
 
I have, some really good stuff on there.
Yep. I like the idea of the 2bbl Australian 250 (4.1). Or the later crossflow 250.

There were some people importing the older Australian 250s for their Broncos.

Or if you REALLY want to wake up a 6....the later FI turbo Barra.
 
I've never seen a stock 6-cyl tachometer but I wonder if @TheRktmn may be able to build one. It would be a conversation piece at car shows!

I can do the tach in 6 or 8 cyl, 6K or 8K RPM.

(Regarding the GM HEI distributor - there's a reason Chevrolet hid that piece of automotive ugly at the BACK of the engine.)
 
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