cracked shock tower repair

[Otto]

Has anyone effectively repaired crackled shock towers without replacing them? I have never done it myself but I'm getting different sprouts from people I have talked to. Eventually I'm replacing the whole fender apron on both sides but between then and now, I just want to drive my car with an occasional session of spirited driving. I miss driving my Mach 1.


Here is the damage

 

[turtle5353]

Drill a small hole at the end of the crack to stop it from going any further. Then grind a v-notch into the crack. I would use a thin wiz wheel since the metal is so thin. Don't worry if you go through because you will be filling it all back in with weld. If you have access to both sides do the same on the other side, if not then just do the side in pic. I would not run a continuous bead because it will get too hot and distort the metal or worse, burn through. Just use a series of tack welds laid one on the other. That should be good for a while, but if you are really worried about it you can always add plating over the repair. Grind your welds down nice and flush. Cut a piece of flat steel 1/8" should be good. Drill a hole in it and lay over the repair, put bolt in it and tighten it down. Then use a hammer to help the patch piece contour to the inner fender. Tack weld it in series all the way around the perimeter. You should be good to go till you get your new pieces.

 

[Otto]

Thank you very much for the quick reply and info. I already have the steel and made the templates. I'm just waiting to borrow a good quality welder and for the hot weather to ease off. I will be putting the reinforcement plate between the raised section in the center and the side humps.

 

[turtle5353]

No problem. Just remember to drill the end of the crack or it will keep going even if you weld it and plate it. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[Otto]

Hello again. The "fix" is finally done and I can finally move on with the assembly. The upper and lower control arms are in along with the spindle, backing plate, booster and caliper bracket. The next step is fabbing a bracket that gets sandwiched between the master cylinder and booster that I can mount the SSBC proportioning valve/distribution block. I will post pictures in a bit.


Here are the pics

 

[rocket366]

not sure if the 71-3 stang towers are stronger but...

on my 69 stang the shock towers were completely wasted

cracked /separated and leaning in toward engine about 1/2 in ea side

very dangerous situation.

Was caused by Cragar deep dish rims that

had little offset which put the wheel center-line way out on the

spindle which related to the wheel having increased leverage on the

upper arm.

I ended up cutting out the old shock towers and welding in used 69 Boss 302

(reinforced) towers...lesson learned. ::thumb::

Paul

 

[Otto]

That is good to know. From what I understand, another cause of cracking is the upper control arm not being lubed. This makes the bushings dry up and bind, which then causes flexing of the sheet metal. Over time it fatigues and cracks. Judging from the condition of my car when I saved it, I think that was the cause of the cracks on mine. Keep them lubed