cudak888: 1971 M-code "Soylent Green" - 2024: Help me measure the frame!

[Qcode351mach]

You can get behind the c-piller..Your gonna have to buy a pdr (paintless dent repair) tool

http://www.pdrtoolstore.com/products.php?cat=17

You could have gone in when you had the rear section peeled back..too late now..you can also go in from the door jamb but you need to remove the qtr window..On the otr dents your trying to hammer out you need a 2x4 on the out side of the qtr..ball peen hammer on the inside (get a helper one holds the 2x4 the other hits from inside the trunk..once it's out..then hammer dolly what ever smooth.

 

[cudak888]

You can get behind the c-piller..Your gonna have to buy a pdr (paintless dent repair) tool

http://www.pdrtoolstore.com/products.php?cat=17

You could have gone in when you had the rear section peeled back..too late now..you can also go in from the door jamb but you need to remove the qtr window..On the otr dents your trying to hammer out you need a 2x4 on the out side of the qtr..ball peen hammer on the inside (get a helper one holds the 2x4 the other hits from inside the trunk..once it's out..then hammer dolly what ever smooth.

The three holes that I patched on the c-pillar are sandwiched between the outer skin and inner skin with 1/8" to spare (I slid a piece of copper in there to make sure I wouldn't weld the panels together in the process). Even with the top of the quarter open, I couldn't get to it (much less see it - I wanted to try and spray some primer in the 1/8" gap, but couldn't even get there).

I tried from the door jamb too - I had the quarter window and it's mounting hardware out of the car yesterday. No dice on access.

At best, the C18ARM might get in the C-pillar area when I have the lower half sliced off for the replacement skin, but I'm not convinced it'll do much good.

-Kurt

 

[Qcode351mach]

You can get behind the c-piller..Your gonna have to buy a pdr (paintless dent repair) tool

http://www.pdrtoolstore.com/products.php?cat=17

You could have gone in when you had the rear section peeled back..too late now..you can also go in from the door jamb but you need to remove the qtr window..On the otr dents your trying to hammer out you need a 2x4 on the out side of the qtr..ball peen hammer on the inside (get a helper one holds the 2x4 the other hits from inside the trunk..once it's out..then hammer dolly what ever smooth.

The three holes that I patched on the c-pillar are sandwiched between the outer skin and inner skin with 1/8" to spare (I slid a piece of copper in there to make sure I wouldn't weld the panels together in the process). Even with the top of the quarter open, I couldn't get to it (much less see it - I wanted to try and spray some primer in the 1/8" gap, but couldn't even get there).

I tried from the door jamb too - I had the quarter window and it's mounting hardware out of the car yesterday. No dice on access.

At best, the C18ARM might get in the C-pillar area when I have the lower half sliced off for the replacement skin, but I'm not convinced it'll do much good.

-Kurt

Then you need to go in by removing the weatherstrip retainter molding..Behind it (rear of where the qtr window rests) is a square hole..I was able to get a long screw driver in to remove a small dent on mine I did custom make the tip so I could roll the dent out..It can be done..They do make diffrent tools & sometimes you have to custom bend a stock tool...If thats too much then get a stud welder & pull..

 

[cudak888]

Then you need to go in by removing the weatherstrip retainter molding..Behind it (rear of where the qtr window rests) is a square hole..I was able to get a long screw driver in to remove a small dent on mine I did custom make the tip so I could roll the dent out..It can be done..They do make diffrent tools & sometimes you have to custom bend a stock tool...If thats too much then get a stud welder & pull..

Seeing as I'll probably make a bigger mess of it with the paintless tools, wouldn't you say sticking one of the Eastwood MIG-to-stud nozzles on my Hobart would be a tidier idea on the circular depression, given my limited skills with the hammer and dolly?

-Kurt

 

[cudak888]

Back on the project.

Door gap finally fixed:

Now this is something that peeves me off about the replacement fender skin - the lower edge is stamped at the exact OPPOSITE angle of the rocker edge. I had to cut this piece in every which way to fit, and I have more of a gap then I care for in one spot. I'll be able to get away with it with some deft MIG work and seam sealer, but I'm not quite thrilled about it either:

Scrap-o-roo:

Test fitting

That's all until the panel clamps arrive in the mail.

-Kurt

 

[auron73mach1]

Hot damn!!! Good work

 

[caspianwendell]

Please forgive me but you really need to align the door before you weld the quarter panel in. I noticed it is out, or slightly open and could be a problem later...just my opinion...but I am sure you know this from the quality of work your doing.

 

[Mister 4x4]

Please forgive me but you really need to align the door before you weld the quarter panel in. I noticed it is out, or slightly open and could be a problem later...just my opinion...but I am sure you know this from the quality of work your doing.

Yes - what he said. Once the door is lined up, it'll also be easier to line up the quarter to the jamb as well. I made a rookie mistake on my passenger side quarter panel lined it all up up and down, but forgot to make sure they matched surface level to surface level when the door was closed. So, I'm thinking I need to pull it off and start over on that side.

Lookin' good so far. ::thumb::

 

[cudak888]

Please forgive me but you really need to align the door before you weld the quarter panel in. I noticed it is out, or slightly open and could be a problem later...just my opinion...but I am sure you know this from the quality of work your doing.

No need to apologize.

If the door looks like it's sitting off from the panel line right now, it's probably an optical illusion, caused by the manner in which the new skin is laying on top of the original. I'm quite sure the door's surface is correct (the bottom edge lines up with the rocker and the quarter quite well).

The door shouldn't be sagging either, as the bottom edge is square with the rocker. I realize the bodyside crease doesn't line up between the door and the quarter, but I've yet to see a single Sportsroof where this wasn't the issue - even with properly-aligned doors.

Granted, I'm not that concerned - consider these freaky panel gaps (absolutely factory) on my Lincolns:

I wouldn't accept this on the '71, even though this is completely factory:

I'm not aiming to perfect what Ford couldn't do themselves. Odds are that I can't do much better with a reproduction panel and limited skills - but at least I know I won't do any worse.

Here's a before-and-after, just in case you fellows spot anything I haven't:

-Kurt

 

[caspianwendell]

From the pics it looks like the top of door and rear quarter are off a good bit which is where i start my alignment then work my way to front from there. It is usually impossible to get great gaps from a factory panel without hours of fabrication and to me a driver car does not have to be perfect in this area. I just wanted to make sure you saw this before you weld. And BTW I am really enjoying this thread so keep the updates coming

 

[Qcode351mach]

I realize the bodyside crease doesn't line up between the door and the quarter, but I've yet to see a single Sportsroof where this wasn't the issue - even with properly-aligned doors.

Mine does

Guess I'm the exception !

 

[cudak888]

From the pics it looks like the top of door and rear quarter are off a good bit which is where i start my alignment then work my way to front from there. It is usually impossible to get great gaps from a factory panel without hours of fabrication and to me a driver car does not have to be perfect in this area. I just wanted to make sure you saw this before you weld. And BTW I am really enjoying this thread so keep the updates coming

I'm working on the car this minute, and it does appear as if it could use a wee bit of adjustment - not enough to throw the alignment off if I put the panel on at it's present spot.

We'll see. I'll keep everyone informed.

Mine does

Guess I'm the exception !

Wouldn't have expected anything less from the master

-Kurt

 

[71_resurrection]

I wish I had the money and Q had the time, I would send him my car before ever considering sending it to anyone else out there!

 

[cudak888]

I wish I had the money and Q had the time, I would send him my car before ever considering sending it to anyone else out there!

+1.

Granted, I'd send him something other than this green '71. I'd rather send my mediocre work into the hazards of daily traffic than risk the same with his art.

Not much to report today, other than I put a rather lousy patch on the right wheelhouse, and successfully mated the taillight panel to the flat bit where the quarter extension sits. The latter was proving itself to be a royal pain due to the brass repairs done many years ago, and the damage caused by removal of the original panel.

In short, a big mess to weld, and the result ain't too pretty either:

^

"Eh, that'll buff right out."

I think the patch is evident that my heart wasn't quite in it today. In my heart's defense, neither was my back. Moltrin time.

In more positive news, my shrinking disk from Wray Schelin came in just as I was finishing up. It promptly made that high spot on the quarter vanish. I was also able to bump out (with hammer + dolly) some of the damage that was on the patch panel that I bought.

Not perfect, but better than it was before.

-Kurt

 

[Qcode351mach]

AH..you like that shrinking disc ::thumb::

Your really gonna love it to do the seam of where your joining the 2 panels..Just make sure the welds are completely ground down..You can ruin the disc running over a high weld

 

[cudak888]

Your really gonna love it to do the seam of where your joining the 2 panels..Just make sure the welds are completely ground down..You can ruin the disc running over a high weld

I take it I'll need to planish the welds near-smooth then.

Tell me, will it be necessary to run the disc on the inside seam, or will I achieve the same results from the outside?

-Kurt

 

[Qcode351mach]

Your really gonna love it to do the seam of where your joining the 2 panels..Just make sure the welds are completely ground down..You can ruin the disc running over a high weld

I take it I'll need to planish the welds near-smooth then.

Tell me, will it be necessary to run the disc on the inside seam, or will I achieve the same results from the outside?

-Kurt

Yes the welds should be smooth ...Being your first time doing this, some distortion of the seam is gonna happen..No biggie..bump it out with 2 dolly's,, one on the inside one on the out side..then just run the disc over where you bumped out..repeat as required for a near perfect seam/ shape

No your not going to use it on the inside..Get some mar glass or upol fibral

to fill smooth out the inside seam..

 

[cudak888]

Yes the welds should be smooth ...Being your first time doing this, some distortion of the seam is gonna happen..No biggie..bump it out with 2 dolly's,, one on the inside one on the out side..then just run the disc over where you bumped out..repeat as required for a near perfect seam/ shape

No your not going to use it on the inside..Get some mar glass or upol fibral

to fill smooth out the inside seam..

Let me recap this to make sure I have it right then:

A. Planish both sides (or as much as I can)

B. Bump the seam/HAZ with dolly-on-dolly from both sides to stretch the HAZ outwards

C. Now that the HAZ has been stretched to compensate for the shrinking, take the shrinking disk and shrink it back down, just at the point it should be.

D. Finish the remainder of planishing until welds are as smooth as possible (without damaging the metal).

E. Hope that I don't need too much polyester body filler after all of this.

-Kurt

 

[Qcode351mach]

Let me recap this to make sure I have it right then:

A. Planish both sides (or as much as I can)

B. Bump the seam/HAZ with dolly-on-dolly from both sides to stretch the HAZ outwards

C. Now that the HAZ has been stretched to compensate for the shrinking, take the shrinking disk and shrink it back down, just at the point it should be.

D. Finish the remainder of planishing until welds are as smooth as possible (without damaging the metal).

E. Hope that I don't need too much polyester body filler after all of this.

-Kurt

You got it ..The only thing is your first skim coat of filler on the outside seam

should be mar glass /fibral pressed in as tight as possible along the seam..from there on use rage or what ever filler your using

 

[mweeps]

Let me recap this to make sure I have it right then:

A. Planish both sides (or as much as I can)

B. Bump the seam/HAZ with dolly-on-dolly from both sides to stretch the HAZ outwards

C. Now that the HAZ has been stretched to compensate for the shrinking, take the shrinking disk and shrink it back down, just at the point it should be.

D. Finish the remainder of planishing until welds are as smooth as possible (without damaging the metal).

E. Hope that I don't need too much polyester body filler after all of this.

-Kurt

You got it ..The only thing is your first skim coat of filler on the outside seam

should be mar glass /fibral pressed in as tight as possible along the seam..from there on use rage or what ever filler your using

Q do you have video of you doing this?