Dash removal...assistance please? Seats?

[NDHutcheson]

Hi Folks,

I've checked threads on here and haven't found what to some of you I hope, may be a simple answer.

But I have removed the eight screws that go up into the dash, (six screws three on each side of the dash and the two screws in the center) – to try to remove the dash pad and dash itself. What little I have seen, is the dash pad and the metal dash should all come out at one time and it is clipped three times under the front windshield. I have lifted and shook and pulled without any noticeable movement. Any suggestions from you experienced restores?

(I need to get the center dash trim away from the car so I can replace bulbs in the gauges.)

Also, to remove the seats, I assume they come out of the tracks without having to unbolt the tracks from the floor. Any advice on that would also be great help.

Thanks so much!

 

[Bentworker]

What direction are you pulling?

 

[Steve73QMach1]

I have three 1973 Mustangs and have removed the dash pad on all three of them. My two late build Mach 1’s have two screws on the top of the dash in front of the defroster ducts that have to be removed. My early build convertible doesn’t have those two screws. I also removed the bezel around the speedometer/tach pods before removing the dash just to protect it. Once the screws are out, I used a quick jerking type of motion on one side of the dash to disengage the clips on the underside. It’s in there pretty good but it should pop loose. Then pull the other side off and slide the padded part and the metal part of the dash out of the car in one piece. Once out of the car, you can easily separate the padded part from the metal part. Regarding the seats, it’s easier removing the seat assembly from the floor than it would be to try to remove the seat from the track while still in the car. Slide the seat forward all the way to remove the two rear bolts then slide it all the way back to get the front bolt and nut/stud off. Don’t forget to unplug the wires underneath for the seat belt warning and seat back release if so equipped before removing. Seat tracks are easily removed once the seat is out.

 

[RIBS]

Lift pad up about 4 inches and pull back in a Hard jarring yanking motion!

For the seats, by far the easiest is to unbolt track from floor, then remove assembly.(2 vertical bolts front, 2 horizontal bolts rear) Then remove track from seat bottom if needed.

 

[Moderator73]

Plus 1 on the above comments. We have a tutorial on this Forum posted by RocketFoot just in case you didn't see this one that helps with your confidence taking this thing off. I used it the first time I took mine off and was really grateful for this reference.

https://7173mustangs.com/threads/how-to-replace-your-71-73-dash-pad.40135/

Oh, and on the seat removable, be aware of your wiring harness under the seats that need to be unplugged before yanking away. There's enough play in the wire to unbolt the seat and if someone else can sort of hold the seat at an angle it's easy to get to unplug. Fat hands don't work well under that seat.

 

[NDHutcheson]

Wow, you guys are great. Great responses and timely. I can't thank you enough.

I'll let you know how it goes as I continue on.

 

[NDHutcheson]

What direction are you pulling?

Up slightly, and straight back.

 

[NDHutcheson]

Wow, you guys are great. Great responses and timely. I can't thank you enough.

I'll let you know how it goes as I continue on.

OK gentlemen, it appears I had a newer build – that was referred to, two screws in the dash which I assumed were holding the dash pad on. After removing, That allowed me to raise the dash up high enough to remove the center gauge panel. Much appreciative for that support

Now my next question, it appears to be a rather arduous challenge to remove the heater/AC/fan controls so that I can pull the center cluster out. Any particular hints or suggestions? Or is there a way to leave all of the linkages attached and still pull the center dash out?

Again, my appreciation.

 

[Moderator73]

You can leave all your heater control cables, electric fan wires & vacuum lines attached. No reason to disconnect any of it just to remove the center finish panel. Remove the heater control panel (4) four attaching screws so that once your center finish panel is free you can easily angle it through the opening.

 

[NDHutcheson]

You can leave all your heater control cables, electric fan wires & vacuum lines attached. No reason to disconnect any of it just to remove the center finish panel. Remove the heater control panel (4) four attaching screws so that once your center finish panel is free you can easily angle it through the opening.

Thank you so much for your guidance. I have removed those for quarter inch hex screws and loosened the control panel, but did not think that would allow me to work its way back through the center panel. But now I will give it the old college try since you have provided me instruction.

Your response is timely and much appreciated. What a great forum.

 

[NDHutcheson]

Good afternoon, taking your advice, looking further at trying to remove the HVAC control box from the center trim panel. As moderator73 has stated, this should be able to slide through the dash component, I do not see anyway that can happen. I think I will be dreaming about "easily angle it through the opening!"

Am I missing something? See the pics attached.

 

[Moderator73]

Good afternoon, taking your advice, looking further at trying to remove the HVAC control box from the center trim panel. As moderator73 has stated, this should be able to slide through the dash component, I do not see anyway that can happen. I think I will be dreaming about "easily angle it through the opening!"

Am I missing something? See the pics attached.

You bet...The Center Finish Panel needs to be pulled away from the dash so the heater controls can stay where they are. Can't tell for sure from your picture but it looks like you still have it attached. The heater panel is just "longer" than the opening. It's the same or close to the same height of the opening so with the finish panel free, you can leave the heater controls in place to angle it slightly to the right or left to slip the finish panel away from it. Here's a couple of pictures that I hope helps.

 

[NDHutcheson]

You bet...The Center Finish Panel needs to be pulled away from the dash so the heater controls can stay where they are. Can't tell for sure from your picture but it looks like you still have it attached. The heater panel is just "longer" than the opening. It's the same or close to the same height of the opening so with the finish panel free, you can leave the heater controls in place to angle it slightly to the right or left to slip the finish panel away from it. Here's a couple of pictures that I hope helps.

 

[RD-72]

If I remember it correctly, for my car (non air), I had to detach the connections behind what you refer to as the control box. It just means going under the dash to disconnect…and it connections were quite easy to remove.

Hope that helps

 

[NDHutcheson]

You bet...The Center Finish Panel needs to be pulled away from the dash so the heater controls can stay where they are. Can't tell for sure from your picture but it looks like you still have it attached. The heater panel is just "longer" than the opening. It's the same or close to the same height of the opening so with the finish panel free, you can leave the heater controls in place to angle it slightly to the right or left to slip the finish panel away from it. Here's a couple of pictures that I hope helps.

Good morning again, sir. Yes, my center, Dash panel is loose. I understand the concept, but I will try one more time. The angle that I can move the HVAC controls and panel just doesn't seem quite large enough to turn it through the panel, but I'll check again Otherwise I may just reinstall as I was able to replace the bulbs in the gauges which was my initial objective. Would be good to get it removed and cleaned thoroughly.

 

[NDHutcheson]

Patience is a virtue gentleman. Finally got those controls out of the center console panel. Thank you all so much for your advice. And so far I haven't broken anything!

 

[Moderator73]

Patience is a virtue gentleman. Finally got those controls out of the center console panel. Thank you all so much for your advice. And so far I haven't broken anything!

You got it, great! I know exactly what you mean by patience (wish I had more) and great to hear nothing got broken! I wish I could have been more helpful but my dashboard and all of its components are at the body shop awaiting a fresh paint job to clean up 51 years of wear. So I couldn’t offer better pictures. Thanks for sharing your success!
Bob

 

[NDHutcheson]

Thanks Bob. Your assistance is much appreciated! Neil

 

[NDHutcheson]

Morning Folks,

Re-assembling the dash. My next challenge!

I am ready to reassemble the dash and the gauge cluster, (Speedo, Tach Fuel), and some of the copper ribbon is wanting to fold or misalign when trying to plug in the harness. It has has such a short tether to the plug, and I have little play to see or fully align the plug. I am going to try and glue the loose copper ribbons to the backing material and try again.

Any suggestions from those of you that have done this project? Is there an after market pigtail made the extends the harness and plug?

Thanks!

 

[rcadd1ct]

Morning Folks,

Re-assembling the dash. My next challenge!

I am ready to reassemble the dash and the gauge cluster, (Speedo, Tach Fuel), and some of the copper ribbon is wanting to fold or misalign when trying to plug in the harness. It has has such a short tether to the plug, and I have little play to see or fully align the plug. I am going to try and glue the loose copper ribbons to the backing material and try again.

Any suggestions from those of you that have done this project? Is there an after market pigtail made the extends the harness and plug?

Thanks!

No aftermarket extension.

AAW rewire has the plug for factory use.

With the dash pad of you should be able to get your hand in from the top or possibly the bottom

I wouldn’t glue it. Maybe double sided cellophane tape?