Duraspark Module Placement

[basstrix]

Where are you guys putting your Duraspark modules? I have a unitlight....love how compact it is, but fear being stranded....want to replace with a Duraspark I setup.

How have you guys implemented the Duraspark I ? Did you bypass the pink resistance wire? I understand the DS I needs full 12V to provide high energy secondary ignition.

 

[Sheriff41]

There's a good description of the wiring in this article:
https://pantera.infopop.cc/topic/sticky-3-351c-basics-and-performance-tuning
Scroll down to the ignition section.

 

[Mister 4x4]

I put mine on the backside of the passenger shock tower. I also used a Duraspark conversion harness from NPD to wire it all in. Works like a champ!

 

[mjlan]

I stuck mine where the rev limiter would go:



And made a fake sticker for it as well.

I am using a DS1 module (red grommet) bypassing the stock resistance wire completely (it runs off of a relay triggered by the stock resistance wire).

According to the internet (and George Pence in particular) the DS1 module and corresponding coil are designed to be supplied with a full 12 V, not resisted down like the DSII.

I blatantly stole the wiring schematic below from George Pence as well.

That schematic has a note in the corner noting the original application for the DS1 parts so you can order from Rockauto.com.

 

[Mister 4x4]

I'm thinking about relocating mine to that spot as well. My 'bait-box fuse block' is a little more unsightly sitting in that same spot, so I'm thinking when I switch to a higher capacity 1-wire internally regulated late-model alternator, I'll drop the fuse block down and 'stack' the DS module above it. Should improve aesthetics.

 

[droptop73]

I'm using a Duraspark distributor with an OLD Ford Motorsports MSD box mounted above the glovebox.

 

[jasonwthompson]

I have mine mounted under the wiper washer reservoir.

 

[basstrix]

I stuck mine where the rev limiter would go:

View attachment 64157

And made a fake sticker for it as well.

I am using a DS1 module (red grommet) bypassing the stock resistance wire completely (it runs off of a relay triggered by the stock resistance wire).

According to the internet (and George Pence in particular) the DS1 module and corresponding coil are designed to be supplied with a full 12 V, not resisted down like the DSII.

I blatantly stole the wiring schematic below from George Pence as well.

That schematic has a note in the corner noting the original application for the DS1 parts so you can order from Rockauto.com.

Do you have a tach in the factory location? I understand the OEM electronics require the load from the coil to drive actuation of the gauge. It seems the solution is to have the OEM electronics replaces with a more modern version that doesn't use the coil load. Do you have an OEM tach? If yes, what have you done to retain its function?

 

[Hemikiller]

The last time I used a Duraspark I setup, I mounted it to the backside of the passenger shock tower. It's kinda ugly, so any attempt to hide it helps. I grabbed the pieces of harness I needed from a junkyard vehicle and made my own, running the wiring down the passenger side valve cover to the firewall, then jumping to the underside of the strut tower brace. I pulled 12V off the Red w/Yellow hash wire used for the throttle position solenoid in the engine harness, which is hot in both Run and Start. Pay attention to the wire colors, George Pence calls out specifically that some must be swapped if using aftermarket harnesses.

 

[mjlan]

No factory tach on this car.

I have not looked into what would be involved in getting it to work with the DS module.

I have kicked around getting the Rocketman conversion but haven't pulled the trigger yet.

 

[basstrix]

No factory tach on this car.

I have not looked into what would be involved in getting it to work with the DS module.

I have kicked around getting the Rocketman conversion but haven't pulled the trigger yet.

That's what I'm considering....Rocketman's conversion. I've requested a cost through PM but haven't heard back.

 

[trillizo_y_uno]

Do you have a tach in the factory location? I understand the OEM electronics require the load from the coil to drive actuation of the gauge. It seems the solution is to have the OEM electronics replaces with a more modern version that doesn't use the coil load. Do you have an OEM tach? If yes, what have you done to retain its function?

You can bypass the resistor wire by running a wire to the coil from the output of the tach. This will get you the full 12v needed and retain function of the stock tach. Because of the voltage increase, the stock tack will read ~200 rpm higher.

 

[Mister 4x4]

That's what I'm considering....Rocketman's conversion. I've requested a cost through PM but haven't heard back.

Check to see if he has what you need on his website: https://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-mustang-all

Also, be advised that he's experiencing some of the same economic and supply chain issues as everybody else, as he mentions up-front when you get to the Home Page.

I have a converted Clock/Tach in mine (was a clock, now a tach), it works perfectly, and looks absolutely awesome! He provides excellent instructions on how to hook it up just like you would an aftermarket tach, so you're not left wondering how to make it work nor having to recklessly cut into your existing wiring harness.

Here's the original instrument cluster configuration:


The original clear plastic lens was not as clear as it could be, so I scored a new one from Ohio Mustang Supply, along with an LED dash light kit from Mustang Project. During the LED swap, the printed circuit on the back began to delaminate, so I ordered a new one again from OMS. Swapping the clock to tach was 3 fasteners, once the printed circuit was removed. Also removed the blue diffusers from the dash light locations, since I got white LEDs - now I can actually see the gauges at night!



Here's the finished product:


Hope this helps!

 

[basstrix]

Check to see if he has what you need on his website: https://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-mustang-all

Also, be advised that he's experiencing some of the same economic and supply chain issues as everybody else, as he mentions up-front when you get to the Home Page.

I have a converted Clock/Tach in mine (was a clock, now a tach), it works perfectly, and looks absolutely awesome! He provides excellent instructions on how to hook it up just like you would an aftermarket tach, so you're not left wondering how to make it work nor having to recklessly cut into your existing wiring harness.

Here's the original instrument cluster configuration:
View attachment 64193

The original clear plastic lens was not as clear as it could be, so I scored a new one from Ohio Mustang Supply, along with an LED dash light kit from Mustang Project. During the LED swap, the printed circuit on the back began to delaminate, so I ordered a new one again from OMS. Swapping the clock to tach was 3 fasteners, once the printed circuit was removed. Also removed the blue diffusers from the dash light locations, since I got white LEDs - now I can actually see the gauges at night!

View attachment 64195

Here's the finished product:
View attachment 64194

Hope this helps!

Thanks, I'll check out his page.

Your cluster looks like new! My lens had major sun damage...much like you see on plastic headlight lens. I was able to sand and polish and get it looking pretty good. I cleaned the printed circuit in a weak mixture of citric but wasn't happy with the lack of brightness on dash lights, so I installed a new circuit...that didn't help much so I put a new headlight switch in...that made a noticeable improvement but still not happy....I may have to go with LED's to get up to my expectations.

Did you restore your gauge faces? I have a spare set of instruments but the faces have some rust and don't look good.

 

[basstrix]

The last time I used a Duraspark I setup, I mounted it to the backside of the passenger shock tower. It's kinda ugly, so any attempt to hide it helps. I grabbed the pieces of harness I needed from a junkyard vehicle and made my own, running the wiring down the passenger side valve cover to the firewall, then jumping to the underside of the strut tower brace. I pulled 12V off the Red w/Yellow hash wire used for the throttle position solenoid in the engine harness, which is hot in both Run and Start. Pay attention to the wire colors, George Pence calls out specifically that some must be swapped if using aftermarket harnesses.

View attachment 64192

I like that diagram....very comprehensive. I've put together a similar diagram on a spreadsheet and find it very helpful. Yours has some additional info that I'll be including in mine. I bought the Painless harness for my DS install and saw Pence's write up noting the green/orange swap.

Are you using the OEM tach? If so, how did you set it up. I'm concerned with shortening its life if I bypass the pink resistance wire and run full voltage to the coil.

I also have a MSD-6/Duraspark setup but I will need another ignition for the upcoming Ranchero project. I know I was able to get an aftermarket tach to work without using the tach module, but I don't remember what I did.

Thanks for the info.

 

[basstrix]

You can bypass the resistor wire by running a wire to the coil from the output of the tach. This will get you the full 12v needed and retain function of the stock tach. Because of the voltage increase, the stock tack will read ~200 rpm higher.

I've heard this can reduce the life of the OEM tach? Do you know the resistance of the coil you're running? Any idea how many hours your tack has run with this setup?

Thanks for the info.

 

[Mister 4x4]

Thanks, I'll check out his page.

Your cluster looks like new! My lens had major sun damage...much like you see on plastic headlight lens. I was able to sand and polish and get it looking pretty good. I cleaned the printed circuit in a weak mixture of citric but wasn't happy with the lack of brightness on dash lights, so I installed a new circuit...that didn't help much so I put a new headlight switch in...that made a noticeable improvement but still not happy....I may have to go with LED's to get up to my expectations.

Did you restore your gauge faces? I have a spare set of instruments but the faces have some rust and don't look good.

Fortunately, my gauge faces were in really good shape. I attribute that to the negative slope of the dashboard - pretty much keeps 'em in the shade almost all the time.

 

[Don C]

I've heard this can reduce the life of the OEM tach? Do you know the resistance of the coil you're running? Any idea how many hours your tack has run with this setup?

Thanks for the info.

Running a 3-ohm coil places approximately the same load across the transformer in the tachometer as the resistor wire and a 1.4-ohm coil (approximately 50 wats). Removing the resistor wire from the circuit and using a 1.4 ohm coil doubles the amperage and wattage across the transformer, increasing the heat in it substantially.
Running without the resistor wire will not change the tachometer reading, the tachometer circuitry 'counts' the pulses from the coil, not the voltage.

 

[Don C]

Here's the diagram from Pence in a little easier to read format.
It's from his article at: https://pantera.infopop.cc/topic/sticky-3-351c-basics-and-performance-tuning

 

[basstrix]

I've come across at least 3 different DS-I diagrams. I color coded the diagram that I like best. I like it because it includes the standard duraspark connectors. Here's a copy for anyone is interested.