Engine Casting numbers

[timsweet]

As you know I'm looking for a 351 block and ran a cross this code:

D2AE-CA

I know D is the 70's and the 2 would indicated 1972, A is Ford (is there a different in the blocks marked "Z" (Mustang) and E is engine. But there some discussion about what the CA means - what does it mean?

 

[mjlan]

Tim, those letters are just change level trackers.

The first iteration of that design would have been D2AE-AA, and would have been bumped to -BA with the first round of changes. -AA and -BA may not have even made it into production, but the design was changed enough to warrant the casting number changing to capture it...

 

[Don C]

Have you found the block, too, or just saw the casting number? The information I compiled shows that it is a 4-bolt CJ block.

Thanks,

Don

 

[timsweet]

Yes found the block. Pics show it to be a 4bolt..

I'm trying to make a deal for it now.

But how can you tell it's a 4bolt from the casting numbers? Some say it's the -CA, but I don't think that's right.

under the casting number it has IL29 or 1L29 is that a date code?

Tim

Have you found the block, too, or just saw the casting number? The information I compiled shows that it is a 4-bolt CJ block.

Thanks,

Don

 

[barnett468]

Unfortunately you can not tell by the casting code.

Yes the other numbers are the date code.

September 29 1971 so it is for a 1972 . They used the same 1972 casting code for 73.

 

[barnett468]

.

If it's a standard bore, I would only go .020" over if possible.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

I might be incorrect but on stamped parts Ford started with the change levels at A then B etc. When they got through the alphabet they went to AA AB etc. Might be different on castings. We had hard copies of Ford drawings before computers came in that you had to roll out on the wall. They were drawn to size and in body position. The change level blocks got ridiculous with hundreds of changes sometimes. On a BMW project we had one time with 87 part numbers there were 4,000 engineering changes before it went to production and they never stopped. Germans build it then fix it, lol. Ford was one of the better to test and then release not let the consumer do the testing.

All of the cleveland blocks are the same 2 bolt or 4 bolt. Same iron same casting shape. They just did not machine for 4 bolt if you have two. You can machine them for four bolts casting is there. One of the differences is the hole they knock in the end of the block for oil return and lube to distributor. Very early blocks did not have them I am told never saw one personally.

There is no way to tell if 2 bolt or 4 bolt without looking at the crank.

I need a good 4 bolt or the caps if anyone has an extra.

 

[Don C]

Yes found the block. Pics show it to be a 4bolt..

I'm trying to make a deal for it now.

But how can you tell it's a 4bolt from the casting numbers? Some say it's the -CA, but I don't think that's right.

under the casting number it has IL29 or 1L29 is that a date code?

Tim

No, the CA has nothing to do with whether or not it's a 4-bolt, that was just the version that wound up being 4-bolt, could just have easily been -DA or FA.

The casting numbers I compiled are at:

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-casting-numbers-and-engine-codes

 

[mjlan]

Keep in mind also that it is a casting number, meaning it identified the mold used to cast the part. The raw casting could then be machined multiple different ways, which results in different part numbers for the finished block.

The particular part we are discussing has the provisions for the second set of main cap bolts in the block bulkheads as part of the foundry mold- thus the same casting number block could be a 2-bolt main or 4-bolt main block, each with a unique PN depending on which machining program was used when it was sent to the machining line to be finished...

Confusing...

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Tim,

I know you had the lower end knock was the block bad? Usually rod bearings that go and cause a knock unless a main spun which can be fixed.

One day these are going to get scarce.

 

[Stanglover]

I might be incorrect but on stamped parts Ford started with the change levels at A then B etc. When they got through the alphabet they went to AA AB etc. Might be different on castings. We had hard copies of Ford drawings before computers came in that you had to roll out on the wall. They were drawn to size and in body position. The change level blocks got ridiculous with hundreds of changes sometimes. On a BMW project we had one time with 87 part numbers there were 4,000 engineering changes before it went to production and they never stopped. Germans build it then fix it, lol. Ford was one of the better to test and then release not let the consumer do the testing.

All of the cleveland blocks are the same 2 bolt or 4 bolt. Same iron same casting shape. They just did not machine for 4 bolt if you have two. You can machine them for four bolts casting is there. One of the differences is the hole they knock in the end of the block for oil return and lube to distributor. Very early blocks did not have them I am told never saw one personally.

There is no way to tell if 2 bolt or 4 bolt without looking at the crank.

I need a good 4 bolt or the caps if anyone has an extra.

Not to hijack the conversation, but I had a "J" block, D0AE-J, which has two oil return holes at the back of the block and no hole in the front (have pictures I think). Actually, that hole in the "L" blocks would not have just been knocked through. When the cores were being assembled prior to casting, a small amount of sand would have been placed at that location between the core halves, thus causing a rough 'hole'. It is inconceivable that they would just have some flunky with a FBH bash a hole through the casting, way too risky!! Yes I could be wrong if someone can show otherwise.

Geoff.

 

[Stanglover]

Tim, a good source, though not perfect, is www.MustangTek.com if you have not seen this site. Lots of very good info on many parts for Mustangs and Cougars. D2AE-CA could be 2 or 4 bolt as others have said. Only way to know is look at it. Hopefully it will be a 4 bolt, but I doubt it will be cheap. My machine shop guestimated that to change a spare "L" block I have from 2 to 4 bolts when all said and done, would be close to a grand. (just in case you were thinking of doing that change!!)

Good luck,

Geoff.