Engine head removal

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sgtjd

Well-known member
Joined
May 20, 2011
Messages
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Location
Fairborn OH
My Car
1973 Mach 1
I’m finally getting around to getting my heads off and getting them repaired. The engine is a 351C 2V.

I need some advice on getting the exhaust manifolds off and any other tricks anyone can provide? I noticed that there is a heat shield on the passenger side only. Also do you have to put the cylinders in their respective place to take the rockers and push rods off?

I did get the AC compressor and Power steering pump out of the way. What a trick that was. Need some help here please.

 
You hit on the harest part, getting the exhaust manifolds off. Good time for cussing after you get some skinned knuckles. Use a good penetrating oil on the bolts a day of two before you try them, and re-apply a few times. Give them a try, sometimes a back and forth action will work, sometimes it takes heat, sometimes you just wind up by break the bolts off. Because you're going to be taking the heads off anyway, not a big deal if you do break one or two, not so good when you break them and weren't planning to remove the heads. I've never located the cylinders before removing the rockers. If you're going to re-use them, make sure you keep them in order, so the rocker, fulcrum, push rods and lifters all go back in the same place and match.

 
I did mine exactly the same way that Don described it. Spray penetrating fluid as often as possible for two days before trying to crank out the exhaust mani bolts. I broke one but as Don said, no biggie if removing the heads. Get a pair of $15 mechanix gloves and you'll wind up with fewer bloody knuckles.

Good luck and let us know how things go.

Doc

 
The BEST penetrating oil you can buy is KROIL OIL. It is not cheap, but there is nothing better. One shot in the evening, one shot 12 hours later and you will be surprised how easy you exhaust manifold bolts come off.

Buy online or at OUTSTANDING men only hardware/tool stores.

 
2nd for KROIL OIL it is the best on the market

 
What is the best position in removing the exhaust manifolds from the top or underneath?

 
Studs / nuts for pipes to manifolds - from under the car

Bolts / studs on engine - from above

NOTE - if your new to this make sure you get good quality 6 point sockets.

Don

If you end up needing 2 V heads or parts let me know

 
If im thinking right....which i might not be. lol. I unbolted the pipes from the manifolds and left the manifolds attached to the heads and pulled the whole thing and removed the manifolds on the bench. Heavy but alot less messing around. But cant remeber if that was with the 351 or 302? But just an idea. And if you do have some that break off, I have welded a nut on the end of the broken stud sticking up and used a ratchet to get them out.

 
Don working on it tonight I'll let you know thanks. Also do you need to disconnect the manifold from the muffler pipe?

 
Don working on it tonight I'll let you know thanks. Also do you need to disconnect the manifold from the muffler pipe?
You can leave the manifold on the muffler pipe if you are going to unbolt the mandifolds from the head.

I am trying to remember if, when I had exhaust mandifolds, if I could pull them out on the head or not.

If this is a Cleveland, make sure to watch/keep the alignment rings on the corners. They are about the size of a wedding ring. Sometimes they 'stick' to the head, you pull it off, they fall off, you forget they were there. They really help when you are putting the heads back on.

 
You can removed the exh mani with the heads. Then it's easier to remove them from the heads. The alignment rings are mandatory for reinstalling the heads. If you misplace yours (like I did, or rather, the machine shop did) order a new set for about $5.

I don't see why you would need to detach the exhaust pipes, unless you have problems aligning things upon reinstallation.

Good luck!

Doc

 
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