Engine lift plate

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GB 71

Active member
Joined
Mar 3, 2014
Messages
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Location
Pennsylvania
My Car
1971 Mach 1
351 C
M Code
Looking for advice on the attached lift plate to pull a 351 Cleveland

10042662_atc_ac641_pri_larg.jpg

 
There's an Edelbrock aluminum intake on this engine..Would this work?

 
yes, I lifted mine with it fully assembled including the Lakewood Bellhousing and the 5 speed transmission attached. No problems.

The aluminum will be fine as long as the studs are in firmly and the plate is snugged down. I wouldn't try it with slack in the arrangement, but otherwise you should be fine.

 
I know they're probably just fine... but those things scare the crap out of me for some reason. Something about placing the entire weight of the engine on 4 bolts and six little welds.

 
Each 5/16" stud is probably capable of supporting a load of 1,200 to 1,500 pounds, depending on the strength of the aluminum alloy used in the intake manifold and with the stud inserted 3/8" to 1/2" into the manifold. This assumes the threads are in good condition and there are no voids in the casting.

That said, if I messed up my Shelby intake manifold I would be ranting and raving, throwing things and probably damaging things, including myself. I'll stick to using chains and bolts in the heads.

 
I have used this plate for many years on many different engines. Big block Chevys, Pontiacs, Buicks, Fords, and even a Desoto Hemi. I never had an issue. One thing I do is use grade 8 bolts and washers when I attach the plate. If the intake is aluminum I always check the threads in the intake prior to bolting the plate down. On the cast intakes, I chase the threads with a tap to ensure they are good. The bolts should engage at least 1.5 diameters of the bolt.

As stated above, make sure the plate is square and snug. You could even torque the plate, though I am not sure what the torque specs would be. I simply tighten it on.

Think of it this way, look at the lift rings the factory used. They do not always appear to be very thick.

 

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