Sorry , i left that out. Its final prime before color.Is that the final primer before paint or what? If it is, wet sand with a 500 should be fine
Are you doing all the paint by your self? Yes. I used to paint quite a few cars 25 years or so back. I was a little intimidated by all the new products that came out since then , but i am warming up to them pretty quick. The products i have work with so far are so much better in my opinion.Or maybe it was me who did'nt read it right..
But there are so many great products these days as you are saying.. Are you guys using water based paint over there, or what?
(Pro painter.)
It has just worked fine for me with a 500..
You are right Greg.. 500 is fine for solid colors and a highter grit like 800 would be better for a metallic color.. Maybe I should have asked what color he was going to use before I wrote my answer..
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Thanks Daniel, it's all good.
Greg.
Way to dispense the knowledge Greg. Good stuff mate hope the OP slips you a few rep points for sound advice ::thumb::Manyo,
It works this way.
You have already laid down a few coats of primer filller to start off with. You guidecoat, and then do all your block work sanding. In your case, you have decided to lay down more primer filler over what you had already put on, because of rub through issues and the like. At this point, you may choose to do a little bit more block sanding or not.
The main point now is, that you must prepare your primer filler for your color coats, by hand sanding wet, (without using any blocks) the entire surface with 800 Grade wet & dry. Using a coarser grit like 500 could cause sanding scratch marks that will appear in your finished color coats. If that happens, you will have no choice but to refinish your panels again. That is something you don't want to happen. Sanding scratch marks will appear in your metallic and pearl finishes . Solid colors on the other hand should tolerate the use of 500 grade to do the final rub down before color, but i would still stick to using 800w&d, wet.
Before you move into hand sanding for your final color coats, lay down a fine coat of black guide coat. That will help you to see any imperfections in the primer filler. Once the guide coat has been sanded away, as well as any imperfections, there should be no real need to keep on sanding.
Also, make sure when you hand sand down, keep your fingers together. If you spread them, you will get tram track marks in your final finish. Use the palm of your hand, and/or the fingers that are closed together, when free hand sanding down in wet or dry sanding applications. Sanding in circular motions produces good even results as well. Don't sand in forward/ backwards straight lines fashion.That causes uneven sanding marks as well.
Hope that helps,
Greg.
My 2 cents here..I agree with the above & with Austin..BUT I spray a light black guide first sand with 400 to start knock down the guide coat with a soft flexible block..Or Balsa wood block..I then finish with ether 500 or 600 wet using a soft sponge block..BEFORE doing any of the above I would recommend force drying in a booth or letting it sit out in the sun for at least 2 weeks PRIOR to the final finish blocking sanding for paint. I happen to like the wet wedge soft block http://www.wetwedge.com/ as well as these http://www.tptools.com/TP-Tools-Pro-Series-WetandDry-Sanding-Blocks,3177.html
I wet sand with 600 for better adhesion before applying the base. If you get it too smooth the base will peal easily after curing. This is especially important if applying decals later.
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Hi Wendell,
Yeah, 600 will do the job i guess. I've never had any adhesion issues with 800 per say, and i've never had any sand scratch issues with 800 as well. However, i think it's worth noting that over the years, i have noticed that different brands of wet and dry paper produce different grit roughness with the paper, especially with the cheaper brands of paper. They tend to be smoother. I normally run 3M ABRASIVES myself, but know that other brands vary in smoothness, and give different sanding results.
The most important thing is what works for you to get the best results on the shop floor. Hope you're keeping well mate.
Greg.
Thanks Luke, hope you find it interesting.
Greg.
+1 on the guide coat cause no matter how perfect you think it is, this will always show any imperfections.
I am not , but i believe it is used here.Sounds cool, I am also doing all the paint job on my car..
Ooh yes, danm all those products there are on the market right now, it is not allways easy to know what product to use..
I am doing Medium Gold Yellow ( Solid color). Maybe 600 would be a safer bet.Manyo,
It works this way.
You have already laid down a few coats of primer filller to start off with. You guidecoat, and then do all your block work sanding. In your case, you have decided to lay down more primer filler over what you had already put on, because of rub through issues and the like. At this point, you may choose to do a little bit more block sanding or not.
The main point now is, that you must prepare your primer filler for your color coats, by hand sanding wet, (without using any blocks) the entire surface with 800 Grade wet & dry. Using a coarser grit like 500 could cause sanding scratch marks that will appear in your finished color coats. If that happens, you will have no choice but to refinish your panels again. That is something you don't want to happen. Sanding scratch marks will appear in your metallic and pearl finishes . Solid colors on the other hand should tolerate the use of 500 grade to do the final rub down before color, but i would still stick to using 800w&d, wet.
Before you move into hand sanding for your final color coats, lay down a fine coat of black guide coat. That will help you to see any imperfections in the primer filler. Once the guide coat has been sanded away, as well as any imperfections, there should be no real need to keep on sanding.
Also, make sure when you hand sand down, keep your fingers together. If you spread them, you will get tram track marks in your final finish. Use the palm of your hand, and/or the fingers that are closed together, when free hand sanding down in wet or dry sanding applications. Sanding in circular motions produces good even results as well. Don't sand in forward/ backwards straight lines fashion.That causes uneven sanding marks as well.
Hope that helps,
Greg.
Here's the next question guys, I want to sand between my color base coat and my clear. 800 grit????Way to dispense the knowledge Greg. Good stuff mate hope the OP slips you a few rep points for sound advice ::thumb::Manyo,
It works this way.
You have already laid down a few coats of primer filller to start off with. You guidecoat, and then do all your block work sanding. In your case, you have decided to lay down more primer filler over what you had already put on, because of rub through issues and the like. At this point, you may choose to do a little bit more block sanding or not.
The main point now is, that you must prepare your primer filler for your color coats, by hand sanding wet, (without using any blocks) the entire surface with 800 Grade wet & dry. Using a coarser grit like 500 could cause sanding scratch marks that will appear in your finished color coats. If that happens, you will have no choice but to refinish your panels again. That is something you don't want to happen. Sanding scratch marks will appear in your metallic and pearl finishes . Solid colors on the other hand should tolerate the use of 500 grade to do the final rub down before color, but i would still stick to using 800w&d, wet.
Before you move into hand sanding for your final color coats, lay down a fine coat of black guide coat. That will help you to see any imperfections in the primer filler. Once the guide coat has been sanded away, as well as any imperfections, there should be no real need to keep on sanding.
Also, make sure when you hand sand down, keep your fingers together. If you spread them, you will get tram track marks in your final finish. Use the palm of your hand, and/or the fingers that are closed together, when free hand sanding down in wet or dry sanding applications. Sanding in circular motions produces good even results as well. Don't sand in forward/ backwards straight lines fashion.That causes uneven sanding marks as well.
Hope that helps,
Greg.
Here's the next question guys, I want to sand between my color base coat and my clear. 800 grit????Way to dispense the knowledge Greg. Good stuff mate hope the OP slips you a few rep points for sound advice ::thumb::Manyo,
It works this way.
You have already laid down a few coats of primer filller to start off with. You guidecoat, and then do all your block work sanding. In your case, you have decided to lay down more primer filler over what you had already put on, because of rub through issues and the like. At this point, you may choose to do a little bit more block sanding or not.
The main point now is, that you must prepare your primer filler for your color coats, by hand sanding wet, (without using any blocks) the entire surface with 800 Grade wet & dry. Using a coarser grit like 500 could cause sanding scratch marks that will appear in your finished color coats. If that happens, you will have no choice but to refinish your panels again. That is something you don't want to happen. Sanding scratch marks will appear in your metallic and pearl finishes . Solid colors on the other hand should tolerate the use of 500 grade to do the final rub down before color, but i would still stick to using 800w&d, wet.
Before you move into hand sanding for your final color coats, lay down a fine coat of black guide coat. That will help you to see any imperfections in the primer filler. Once the guide coat has been sanded away, as well as any imperfections, there should be no real need to keep on sanding.
Also, make sure when you hand sand down, keep your fingers together. If you spread them, you will get tram track marks in your final finish. Use the palm of your hand, and/or the fingers that are closed together, when free hand sanding down in wet or dry sanding applications. Sanding in circular motions produces good even results as well. Don't sand in forward/ backwards straight lines fashion.That causes uneven sanding marks as well.
Hope that helps,
Greg.
Not if it's a metallic..you shouldn't sand metallic base coats.. better off to clear it with 2 coats then sand the clear apply your finish clear coats
