firewall hacked for pwr brake conversion???

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Joined
Feb 14, 2016
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Location
Clover
My Car
72 Mach 1, Q code 351CJ, 4 speed.
The pictures show a hole in the firewall just below the master cylinder.  It seems pretty jagged and the metal looks bent inward to the cockpit.  It looks like this hole was cut by someone maybe in an attempt to install a pwr brake booster???  According to my Marti Report my car came as a 72 Mach 1 with manual brakes.  It has rear drum and front disk now.  I think someone tried to do a half ass'ed brake conversion!

This hole isnt supposed to be here is it????

Thanks

Wade











 
The pictures show a hole in the firewall just below the master cylinder.  It seems pretty jagged and the metal looks bent inward to the cockpit.  It looks like this hole was cut by someone maybe in an attempt to install a pwr brake booster???  According to my Marti Report my car came as a 72 Mach 1 with manual brakes.  It has rear drum and front disk now.  I think someone tried to do a half ass'ed brake conversion!

This hole isnt supposed to be here is it????

Thanks

Wade
Yes Wade butchered indeed. It's not very clear to be honest, but here is a picture of my Mach that was a non-power drum brake car before I converted to disc up front and then added a factory power booster. I outlined in red so you can just make out the shape the hole should have been. There is a cover plate over the hole that is removed when a booster is added. There are post on here about booster conversions.  Got to go for now, more later is needed.

 
Yea, it just looks like they cut away the cover that is there when you have manual brakes. I think its made of rubberized gasket material but dont quote me on that. In a few weeks I can let you know for sure when I install my Brake booster. Ive been putting it off because its such a big ****** job to do. I am still trying to figure out the best way to remove the studs that are below the master cylinder bolts.

Heres what mine looks like.



 
Yea, it just looks like they cut away the cover that is there when you have manual brakes.  I think its made of rubberized gasket material but dont quote me on that.  In a few weeks I can let you know for sure when I install my Brake booster.  Ive been putting it off because its such a big ****** job to do.  I am still trying to figure out the best way to remove the studs that are below the master cylinder bolts.  

Heres what mine looks like.

 Ah! a much better picture.

The cover plate is steel held by a couple of self tap screws. The bolts can be screwed out, I don't remember drilling them out.

 I don't have time right now to go into the entire conversion I did last year, but I can tell you this, take the steering column out FIRST as well as the drivers seat. It's not hard and you'll thank me later!! I did a post on my addition of the booster if you care to search. I'll look at it again later and go over what I did.

Geoff.

 
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I was scratching my head when I first read the thread title, trying to understand how the forum's firewall could have been hacked by a power brake conversion post...

 
So the hole "is" supposed to be there??

Mine was just butchered?

There is a rubberized cover/plug I can Get?

If nothing is available should I just rivit or weld a plate over the hole?

The front disks i guess the the PO put on work fine with the manual MC so I don't plan on doing anything else to the system anytime soon. I will most likely go with a hydroboost setup later on.

Thanks

Wade

 
So the hole "is" supposed to be there??  

Mine was just butchered?

There is a rubberized cover/plug I can Get?

If nothing is available should I just rivit or weld a plate over the hole?

The front disks i guess the the PO put on work fine with the manual MC so I don't plan on doing anything else to the system anytime soon.  I will most likely go with a hydroboost setup later on.

Thanks

Wade
If you're just wanting to cover the hole for now, I would get a piece of metal, even a piece from a cookie tin or similar, and use a couple of sheet metal screws to hold it on. A bead of RTV around the hole would help stop the drafts. You may be able to unbolt the m/c and pull it forward a bit to get the metal up and behind, but mind you don't cut the rubber boot with the patch.

If you did not read a post about my conversion, look up Deluxe Pedal Bearing Support Bearing Kit in Suspension, Brakes and Steering from 11/20/15. I think everything you'll need for a factory booster conversion is there. It may also help if you do decide to go with the Hydroboost system.

 
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Yea, it just looks like they cut away the cover that is there when you have manual brakes.  I think its made of rubberized gasket material but dont quote me on that.  In a few weeks I can let you know for sure when I install my Brake booster.  Ive been putting it off because its such a big ****** job to do.  I am still trying to figure out the best way to remove the studs that are below the master cylinder bolts.  

Heres what mine looks like.


Studs are threaded into the pedal support, which has two nuts pressed into it. The studs should come out fairly easily, or just get a stud remover. Etiehr way, they need to come out, unless you are replacing the pedal support with a power pedal support, which isn't necessary. You cna remove the studs and drill the threads out of the nuts. Getting the booster bolted to the firewall is the hardest part of the job, the upper nuts are a PITA to get to. 

Plate goes inside the car, between the firewall and the pedal support. It's a PITA to remove, which is probably why it was hacked up. I'd make a plate to go over it or get a used one from a parts vendor. Heck, even duct tape would work in a pinch.



 
I think I mentioned this before. I can speak from my own experience adding a FACTORY reman booster.

First, get everything OUT OF THE WAY, seat, steering column, kick panel and pull back the carpet. This way you can see exactly what you're doing. I'm a smaller guy and it was still hard to get in there. Can't remember if you said yours in a manual trans, but the brake pedal arm will need to be removed as a new pushrod pin needs to be installed (welded in) 2" further down, unless you are lucky and have a power brake pedal arm! The pedal support probably can be left in place if you're not doing a clutch shaft bearing install as I did. The bolts at the bottom easily unscrewed in my case. You then drill out the nuts to clear the 3/8' studs on the booster. Again in my case, the cover plate needed to be cut out to the shape of the firewall hole. This cover plate has 4 bosses about 1/8"  thick around the holes. These need to be retained for correct spacing. If you have to make a new plate, add some washers to make up the spacing. Please re-read some earlier post on this, a lot has been posted in the past on this install. If necessary, I can go back and check exactly what I did, been a couple of years now and I should have some pictures. Let me know.

Geoff.

 
John, on behalf of scgamecock, thanks for posting your great pictures. I just know these will be very helpful to many other members faced with working on steering and brake upgrades.

 Geoff.

 
John, Damn man. I need a complete new floor pan as well. How was the fit and which one did you use?

If I could weld and was 20 years younger I would do it myself. As it is, im going to have to pay a shop about $1500 to do it.

 
Yeah man, it was a lot of work. I probably fitted and removed the floor pan about 4 times before I was ready to weld it in. I was pleasantly surprised to how well it fit in the car. Very minor trimming and many sheet metal screws. It is a dynacorn piece. It came with both seat platforms correct for a fastback and a parking brake bracket. After shopping around for the best price, I went with Restoration Performance. Shipped to my buddy's garage.

 
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