Wilwood brake kit wil-140-13477 from summit. Review/install

[jowens1126]

looking at my bracket, It looks like theres only 1 hole, so I think that answers that part at least.

 

[Don C]

The pivot point for '71 - '73s is the same for manual and power, the location of the brake push rod connection is changed.

You want a small gap in the booster to master cylinder push rod, about 1/8 inch or a little less, I try for about 0.10". This is to make certain that the piston in the master cylinder fully retracts. If it doesn't it won't reveal the holes from the reservoir and refill the piston cylinder.

 

[jowens1126]

Thanks again Don.

Oh, do you know if that type of master cylinder cap will rust?

 

[Don C]

They are zinc or cadmium plated, which offers some protection. If you lived in Arizona it probably would never rust. Because you live in Florida, you're like me in Oregon, most likely will show some rust in a few years.

 

[jowens1126]

Thank you sir!

I am going to take off a bit early today so I can at least have an hour or so of daylight when I get home. I have the master ready to install. Then it will be just a matter of bleeding the lines. Hopefully we can get that done and see what we got.

 

[jowens1126]

Got it done right at dark.

Glad that's over with. Now we can bleed it tomorrow.

Booster.



Master





getting those lines to line up and start on both ends was not an easy task. Then tightening them with less than no room was no fun either.

I wish I had the funds to tear it apart and completely restore it. Maybe one day.

 

[Don C]

You are right about how hard it can be to get fittings to line up. It's so easy to cross thread them, especially if they're going into brass.

Good job on getting the brakes functioning again.

 

[B229218]

Awesome kit, but I thought all the 71-73 mustangs came with front disk brakes. My 73 had front disk brakes from the factory

Was an option, as was power steering.

 

[jowens1126]

Thanks for all the help Don.

The fittings that go into the top of that wilwood prop valve are damn near impossible to get a wrench on. I got them as tight as I could but they need more. Now that they are snug, I should be able to move the prop valve a bit or bend the lines a bit so I can get the wrench on them.

I will get them tight though, one way or another.

 

[jowens1126]

We wrapped up all the installation today. Finally. I got the last 2 lines tight, got the vacuum line hooked up to the booster and the vac tree. My son got the pedal and the brake switch back on. I got the system full of fluid ready to start bleeding. Thats when we lost the daylight.

So all thats left is bleeding everything, and looking for leaks.

 

[Don C]

Smart man, get the limber kid to do the under the dash stuff

 

[jowens1126]

Everything is installed now. We are trying to bleed the system. The back was no problem at all.

The front, not so much. I have tightened every connection and I am still getting foam coming out the bleeder on the passenger side. The drivers side is not bad. I get a tiny amount of air on the drivers side, but nothing like the passenger side. I have checked everything and im now suspecting a line isnt seating on the proportional valve even though its TIGHT. I had a couple of leaks on the hose ends, but I think thats taken care of. They wont turn any more without breaking them.

This is the outlet side of the prop valve. The bottom one is the drivers side, the top one is the passenger side. The bottom one has an extra long fitting, the top one a short fitting. I would expect the union or the long fittings were leaking but not that I can tell. That side is bleeding ok.



I dont see fluid anywhere. Were bleeding it with the car off. When the car is on, its total foam out of the passenger side. Which to me indicates a tiny venturi leak that is sucking in air, but might not leak fluid. Ive been over every fitting several times now and im about ready to give up.

 

[jowens1126]

Is there a Dye I can put in the master cylinder that I can detect a leak with a black light?

 

[nailpounder]

if your flairs are hard  you could anneal them a little  (heat them up wits a propane torch )and soften them a little so they will seat    your flairs may not be flat and that will case them not to seat

 

[jowens1126]

It's just strange that I don't see any fluid leaks anywhere.

 

[nailpounder]

It's just strange that I don't see any fluid leaks anywhere.

i changed all my brake lines  and i almost got all the air out and my brakes bled   then nothing would bleed  it turned that my master cylinder had failed and was not giving enough pressure to bleed the brakes   i replaced the master and all good  i also installed the same wilwood kit that you did

 

[jowens1126]

Everything is new, thats part of my problem. Its hard to tell where to start. If I cant figure it out this week, im going to have to resort to taking it to the shop down the street.

I wish there was some kind of dye you could add to the fluid to check for leaks.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Are you using line wrenches on the brake line connections or open end wrenches? You need line. Also like suggested take a look at all of the seats on the ends of the lines. A brake line flaring tool might be needed to true up the ends some. They will loan them at most parts houses. 

Look inside any fittings looks like some of yours are not new. They do get crushed to the center where the brake line seats. Some that are brass might need to be changed so the seat is tall enough for the line to hit and not bottom out the threads on the fitting. All it takes is a tiny hair size space and it will leak. 

You might even try isolating different areas if you can get a fitting that can be plugged. That way you find where to look for the leak. 

I think one of the members did say there was something to add to the fluid to show leaks, I am not familiar with that. But you should see fluid easily enough. I have never had issue but never put custom system on either only stock. 

I suspect a fitting that has crushed down so far that the threads bottom out before the line is seated on the fitting.

 

[jowens1126]

All the lines and fittings are new. I only use line wrenches where possible. Sometimes theres not enough room. The main lines are stainless. When I did the last bit of line work, I used some copper colored lines that are Nickle-Copper alloy lines. I really like those. Last time I went they were out of those and I had to get a coated carbon steel line to redo one of the master cylinder lines. They are all new. I guess I will have to take it all apart and check each damn seat now.

I have an Eastwood flare tool. Not the expensive one, but it still works good on everything except the stainless. Alot better than those parts store flare tools.

 

[nailpounder]

when i bleed the front disc brakes   i got a lot of foam also  it took some time to bleed them   are you opening both top bleeder  valves

also even when i had a small leak i still got the brakes to ferm up they just did not hold