- Aug 14, 2014
- Reaction score
- Madison, WI
- My Car
- 1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/408C stroker
I had to tighten the line nuts a lot more that what I though to make them fluid tight. Mine were steel, but since SS is stiffer, it will take even more torque to tighten. One of the reasons is that you are using relatively short wrenches in hard to reach area. You read all over to not overtighten, which is true, but this is a vague term and is subjective and varies from person to person. Basically, if you have a good and clean flare, you have to tighten enough to create a seal, but not too much so you damage the fitting :shootself: :chin: .All the lines and fittings are new. I only use line wrenches where possible. Sometimes theres not enough room. The main lines are stainless. When I did the last bit of line work, I used some copper colored lines that are Nickle-Copper alloy lines. I really like those. Last time I went they were out of those and I had to get a coated carbon steel line to redo one of the master cylinder lines. They are all new. I guess I will have to take it all apart and check each damn seat now.
I have an Eastwood flare tool. Not the expensive one, but it still works good on everything except the stainless. Alot better than those parts store flare tools.
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