Wilwood brake kit wil-140-13477 from summit. Review/install

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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/408C stroker
All the lines and fittings are new.  I only use line wrenches where possible.  Sometimes theres not enough room.  The main lines are stainless.  When I did the last bit of line work, I used some copper colored lines that are Nickle-Copper alloy lines.  I really like those.  Last time I went they were out of those and I had to get a coated carbon steel line to redo one of the master cylinder lines.  They are all new.  I guess I will have to take it all apart and check each damn seat now.  :(

I have an Eastwood flare tool.  Not the expensive one, but it still works good on everything except the stainless.  Alot better than those parts store flare tools.
I had to tighten the line nuts a lot more that what I though to make them fluid tight. Mine were steel, but since SS is stiffer, it will take even more torque to tighten. One of the reasons is that you are using relatively short wrenches in hard to reach area. You read all over to not overtighten, which is true, but this is a vague term and is subjective and varies from person to person. Basically, if you have a good and clean flare, you have to tighten enough to create a seal, but not too much so you damage the fitting :shootself: :chin: .

 
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Don C

Fords Forever
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Don't try to tighten them one time. Tighten them tight, back off and tighten again. Do this 5 or 6 times. Do this with the threads lubricated with brake fluid so you're getting full force to the flares and seats, not taken up by friction between the fittings.

 
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302-2v
C4

Thanks everyone.

Here is what I'm thinking.......

Passenger side is solid foam. Drivers side barely has any bubbles.

My prop valve has 3 inputs and 3 outputs. I never have issues with the rear, so all is good there.

Since the passenger side is so much worse than the driver side, I'm going to start at the prop valve passenger outlet.

1st, I'll remove that fitting and inspect the seat. Then Loosen it up, push pedal so fluid come out, then close it, open it, close it, several times. Then try to bleed it.

If it's still foam, I'll go the the passenger side union and do the same thing. And so on till I get to the hose fitting.

If that doesn't change anything, I'm getting a new front set of lines and start over.

 
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Its bleeding much better today. The drivers side is completely air free. Passenger side still has a bit of air. I'm going to let it sit for a bit then check all the fittings on that side and try again. It's still much better than it was.

 
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I think we got it now. Everything bled good. Pedal feels strong. Now just have to put the rest back together and put the tires on and give it a test drive.

One question though,

The rotors have some rust on them from sitting. Should I wire brush that off?

 

midlife

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I think we got it now. Everything bled good. Pedal feels strong. Now just have to put the rest back together and put the tires on and give it a test drive.

One question though,

The rotors have some rust on them from sitting. Should I wire brush that off?
If it is rust simply from air humidity or rain, it'll come off the first time you apply the brakes while driving.  The same rust appears on all new cars sitting in stealership parking lots.

 
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Finished everything up, went to start it and..... nothing. Tried to charge the battery and it wouldn't charge. Tested voltage on the battery and got 9 volts. Got a new battery. Still nothing but a click then total power failure.

I wiggled the ground cable and power was restored. I have known the battery cable was shot since I got the car but have been putting off changing the ground. So old cable out, new one going in.

There was so much goo on the connection its amazing it worked at all.

Hopefully this will fix the no start.



 
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I wish I could pull the motor and clean it and repaint the engine bay, but dont have time for that yet.

 
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Everything is now working fantastic. Brakes are perfect now. It sure is nice to be able to drive again.

 
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