mach1000
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2013
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- 601
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- Location
- Utica, NY
- My Car
- 1966 convertible
1971 Mach 1
1971 Cougar XR7
1967 F250 Camper Special
OK finally got a little time to document how to replace the leaky FMX transmission shifter seal and kick down O-Ring. Sorry I didn't document bolt head sixes but you'll really only need a wrench for the nut on the shifter assembly and kick down, a socket set to remove the pan bolts and valve body and a screwdriver and few other tools I'll describe below.
Since the drain pan on most FMX's don't have a drain plug I preferred to pump the oil out from the dip stick tube using a cheap hand pump and some tubing you can get at the local hardware store. That way I don't get oil gushing and dumping all over the place splashing and making a mess. Plus I pump it into a container that easy to pour back into the trans when I'm all done.
I like to have a nice clean area on the work bench ready to go with to work on with a couple layers of old newspapers to catch the oil mess.
Unhook the kick down rod, the steering column lock rod and the shifter linkage from the trans.
Drop the oil pan. I still keep plenty of newspaper and a catch pan under the trans to catch any oil drips and when the times comes to remove the valve body you'll get more oil dripping.
Once the pan is off the sediment if any and gasket surfaces can be cleaned up on the pan and trans housing. I have the super strong little magnates I like to drop in the back of the pan to help keep the fluid "clean".
Remove the oil filer and bracket that holds it in place. Many times these are just screen type filters and can just be cleaned and reused.
There are two metal tubes the are hooked into and under the valve body that need to be removed. I just pry them out with a flat blade screwdriver. They are a real pain. Take note of placement.
Next remove the valve body bolts. There are two metal tubes that are just friction fit between the valve body and the rest of the trans.
The valve body will then come out. Keep an eye on the bolt lengths. I believe they were all the same.
More oil will be dripping so keep plenty of paper towels on hand.
I set the valve body, bolts and tubes aside.
Now you can get to the kick down nut and shifter nut.
Use a box end wrench to remove the both nuts on the inside of the trans. You can just hold the outside of the kick down and shifter with your other hand.
Once the nuts are off you can slide the kick down and shift lever out the side. Watch out because there is a plunger and spring that will fall out of the trans housing shaft once you remove the shifter.
Also take note of how the kick down and shifter fit into each of their respective parts inside trans. Take a picture if you need to. They will need to go back in the exact same way. It’s not difficult but hard to describe.
I took both of them to the bench and cleaned them up with carb cleaner and steel wool.
You'll need to replace the kick down O ring with a new one. I use a little petroleum jelly to help it slide on.
The shifter seal is pressed into the side of the trans. I used a small flat blade screw driver and a pick to pry it out.
After making sure the hole was clean I put just a skim coat of The Right Stuff sealant around the new trans seal and set it into place.
Best way to drive the seal back in while the trans is still in the car I found was to use a putty knife laying flat against the seal. Then I tapped it in evenly with a small hammer. This gives you enough room to drive it in with the hammer.
Now the fun part. Getting the spring and plunger to stay up in the shaft while getting the shifter back in. After lots of swearing I figured out to use a dab of petroleum jelly on it and stuck it back in the shaft. That held it long enough to get the shifter in and in place.
Also I found it helpful to put the shifter inside the car in part if it wasn’t already, loosen the nut on the linkage and manually move the shifter on the trans in park so everything would be lined up correctly. Then tightened everything up. You’ll see the Park pin inside the trans and how it locks into the teeth to give you Part.
Then slide the kick down shaft in, replace the nut.
Again make sure the kick down and shifter fit into each of their respective parts inside trans. Take a picture if you need to. They will need to go back in the exact same way. It’s not difficult but hard to describe. You can move each by hand to make they are a functioning correctly.
Just reverse the rest of the procedure noted above.
Note to check the trans pan mounting surface. Many times it may be warped from overtightening. I lay it gasket surface down on a nice flat surface and use a body hammer to flatten it out if it is warped. You can use a straight edge to check as you go along.
I used a new cork gasket and used a thin layer of the right stuff on the pan surface before I set the gasket on it.
Don't overtighten your pan bolts. They just need to be snug. You can tighten them more if you find a leak once you run your car a bit.
Note that you’ll likely need more trans fluid than what you pumped out since you’ll lose some from the valve body and it just dripping out as you work on it. Also rubber gloves with a textured surface for grip are a must. Don't forget to check your fluid again in park while hot and engine running to make sure you're topped off.
I would say it’s a medium to advanced job. If you can’t change brake pads don’t attempt this.
This isn’t comprehensive but meant to give you an idea of what you’re in store for in changing these seals out. I would also refer to the Ford shop manual.
Since the drain pan on most FMX's don't have a drain plug I preferred to pump the oil out from the dip stick tube using a cheap hand pump and some tubing you can get at the local hardware store. That way I don't get oil gushing and dumping all over the place splashing and making a mess. Plus I pump it into a container that easy to pour back into the trans when I'm all done.
I like to have a nice clean area on the work bench ready to go with to work on with a couple layers of old newspapers to catch the oil mess.
Unhook the kick down rod, the steering column lock rod and the shifter linkage from the trans.
Drop the oil pan. I still keep plenty of newspaper and a catch pan under the trans to catch any oil drips and when the times comes to remove the valve body you'll get more oil dripping.
Once the pan is off the sediment if any and gasket surfaces can be cleaned up on the pan and trans housing. I have the super strong little magnates I like to drop in the back of the pan to help keep the fluid "clean".
Remove the oil filer and bracket that holds it in place. Many times these are just screen type filters and can just be cleaned and reused.
There are two metal tubes the are hooked into and under the valve body that need to be removed. I just pry them out with a flat blade screwdriver. They are a real pain. Take note of placement.
Next remove the valve body bolts. There are two metal tubes that are just friction fit between the valve body and the rest of the trans.
The valve body will then come out. Keep an eye on the bolt lengths. I believe they were all the same.
More oil will be dripping so keep plenty of paper towels on hand.
I set the valve body, bolts and tubes aside.
Now you can get to the kick down nut and shifter nut.
Use a box end wrench to remove the both nuts on the inside of the trans. You can just hold the outside of the kick down and shifter with your other hand.
Once the nuts are off you can slide the kick down and shift lever out the side. Watch out because there is a plunger and spring that will fall out of the trans housing shaft once you remove the shifter.
Also take note of how the kick down and shifter fit into each of their respective parts inside trans. Take a picture if you need to. They will need to go back in the exact same way. It’s not difficult but hard to describe.
I took both of them to the bench and cleaned them up with carb cleaner and steel wool.
You'll need to replace the kick down O ring with a new one. I use a little petroleum jelly to help it slide on.
The shifter seal is pressed into the side of the trans. I used a small flat blade screw driver and a pick to pry it out.
After making sure the hole was clean I put just a skim coat of The Right Stuff sealant around the new trans seal and set it into place.
Best way to drive the seal back in while the trans is still in the car I found was to use a putty knife laying flat against the seal. Then I tapped it in evenly with a small hammer. This gives you enough room to drive it in with the hammer.
Now the fun part. Getting the spring and plunger to stay up in the shaft while getting the shifter back in. After lots of swearing I figured out to use a dab of petroleum jelly on it and stuck it back in the shaft. That held it long enough to get the shifter in and in place.
Also I found it helpful to put the shifter inside the car in part if it wasn’t already, loosen the nut on the linkage and manually move the shifter on the trans in park so everything would be lined up correctly. Then tightened everything up. You’ll see the Park pin inside the trans and how it locks into the teeth to give you Part.
Then slide the kick down shaft in, replace the nut.
Again make sure the kick down and shifter fit into each of their respective parts inside trans. Take a picture if you need to. They will need to go back in the exact same way. It’s not difficult but hard to describe. You can move each by hand to make they are a functioning correctly.
Just reverse the rest of the procedure noted above.
Note to check the trans pan mounting surface. Many times it may be warped from overtightening. I lay it gasket surface down on a nice flat surface and use a body hammer to flatten it out if it is warped. You can use a straight edge to check as you go along.
I used a new cork gasket and used a thin layer of the right stuff on the pan surface before I set the gasket on it.
Don't overtighten your pan bolts. They just need to be snug. You can tighten them more if you find a leak once you run your car a bit.
Note that you’ll likely need more trans fluid than what you pumped out since you’ll lose some from the valve body and it just dripping out as you work on it. Also rubber gloves with a textured surface for grip are a must. Don't forget to check your fluid again in park while hot and engine running to make sure you're topped off.
I would say it’s a medium to advanced job. If you can’t change brake pads don’t attempt this.
This isn’t comprehensive but meant to give you an idea of what you’re in store for in changing these seals out. I would also refer to the Ford shop manual.
