Ford Front Suspension Support Tool by Tommy Zees

[BeerDontCount]

Seems like there has been a lot of discussion on this, but I think I have something to add. I was changing my front shocks over the weekend, got the old ones out by removing the lower nuts first then the top and shock tower nuts, no problem. However when I went to install the new ones, I installed the lower nuts first and discovered the top of the shock did not align vertically with the shock tower, as it was leaning 3 inches or so towards the side of the car? I tried to push it towards the center of the shock tower so I could reinstall the cap, and it would not budge. I had to remove the lower shock mount outside nut, and loosen the inner nut almost all the way out to get enough play in the shock to get it to mount on top. I realized at that point that what happened, and what happens every time we raise the vehicle, is that the plane of the upper control arm dips toward the outside of vehicle putting significant pressure on the length of the extended shock, trying to bow it outward, as the top of the shock is mounted to the shock tower cap and cannot move. At that point I lowered it to the ground and installed the lower nuts with the car on the ground, and did the opposite side R&R without lifting it. While the rubber shock bushings no doubt take a beating when the car is raised and the wheel is lowered, I think its the force trying to bend the shock into an arc that seems to be the problem, and I would bet the reason for the tool that Ford created. There really isn't any weight bearing down on the top shock bushing when its raised because the extension of the shock allows it to rest at the bottom point of the the control arm arc. Before this weekend I would have said this tool was no big deal, but now I'm not so sure. I don't know if I will raise the car in the future without disconnecting the top shock mount and removing the shock tower cap. Food for thought.

Scott

 

[NG8264723]

NIce thought!

I bet you are correct

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Thought I would throw this out there. I do understand the reason and the need for using the tool. Another think lots of people do that destroys their front suspension is turn the steering wheel without the tires rolling. You say what difference would that make.

When you turn the steering wheel the center line of the ball joints tries to move fore, aft and tilt in and out due to the geometry built into the steering. If your are moving slightly the tire rotation allows for the pressure to be taken off the strut rod bushings, ball joints etc. If you are not rolling it is trying to drag the tire on the surface and puts many times the force on all the joints causing a much earlier failure of them.

Back in 73 when my Mach 1 was new I use to run autocross with it. twice I slid into a curb once almost rolled the car. Both times I had to change the ball joints from the one hit force.

My current F-150 has 277,000 miles on it and just went through the yearly inspection. Ball joints are fine. My sons F-150 that he just traded in had worn out ball joints that ate up his tires. His had 125,000 miles. He has the habit of turning the wheel without rolling and it ate up the joints. His previous truck I had to replace the joints on it failed inspection probably cause by the same thing.

If you do not understand what I am saying go out and get someone to turn the wheel from lock to lock while not moving and you watch the forces on the tire and suspension. Then do it rolling and see the difference. The loads applied go way down.

My old 69 For van had the twin I beam front end, no ball joints. When I got the van it had 75,000 miles on it and the king pins bushings and king pins were worn and I replaced them, groves in pins and bushings egg shaped. When I scrapped the van after 467,000 miles and a crash I took the front spindles off to use on a Mustang rear body trailer I am going to build. The king pins and bushings had no wear on them.

The force of the suspension hanging at full extension does harm the joints in our cars and does damage over time so the tool is a good thing.

Dropping the clutch and hauling ass does damage but I won't stop doing that, lol.

 

[Don C]

I agree, David, turning the steering wheel while stationary places a huge load on all of the steering and front suspension. I think those of us that began driving, especially heavier vehicles, before everything had power steering learned that moving while utilizing "armstrong power steering" made it a lot easier to turn the steering wheel and we still tend to turn while moving.

 

[Don C]

Seems like there has been a lot of discussion on this, but I think I have something to add.  I was changing my front shocks over the weekend, got the old ones out by removing the lower nuts first then the top and shock tower nuts, no problem.  However when I went to install the new ones, I installed the lower nuts first and discovered the top of the shock did not align vertically with the shock tower, as it was leaning 3 inches or so towards the side of the car?  I tried to push it towards the center of the shock tower so I could reinstall the cap, and it would not budge.  I had to remove the lower shock mount outside nut, and loosen the inner nut almost all the way out to get enough play in the shock to get it to mount on top.  I realized at that point that what happened, and what happens every time we raise the vehicle, is that the plane of the upper control arm dips toward the outside of vehicle putting significant pressure on the length of the extended shock, trying to bow it outward, as the top of the shock is mounted to the shock tower cap and cannot move.  At that point I lowered it to the ground and installed the lower nuts with the car on the ground, and did the opposite side R&R without lifting it.  While the rubber shock bushings no doubt take a beating when the car is raised and the wheel is lowered, I think its the force trying to bend the shock into an arc that seems to be the problem, and I would bet the reason for the tool that Ford created.  There really isn't any weight bearing down on the top shock bushing when its raised because the extension of the shock allows it to rest at the bottom point of the the control arm arc.  Before this weekend I would have said this tool was no big deal, but now I'm not so sure.  I don't know if I will raise the car in the future without disconnecting the top shock mount and removing the shock tower cap.  Food for thought.

Scott

The shock lower end mounts to the spring seat/perch. It sounds like the bushing in the spring perch is not moving very much. As the suspension moves up and down the springs should cause the perch to rotate and not place a large side load on the shocks.

 

[73pony]

Seems like there has been a lot of discussion on this, but I think I have something to add.  I was changing my front shocks over the weekend, got the old ones out by removing the lower nuts first then the top and shock tower nuts, no problem.  However when I went to install the new ones, I installed the lower nuts first and discovered the top of the shock did not align vertically with the shock tower, as it was leaning 3 inches or so towards the side of the car?  I tried to push it towards the center of the shock tower so I could reinstall the cap, and it would not budge.  I had to remove the lower shock mount outside nut, and loosen the inner nut almost all the way out to get enough play in the shock to get it to mount on top.  I realized at that point that what happened, and what happens every time we raise the vehicle, is that the plane of the upper control arm dips toward the outside of vehicle putting significant pressure on the length of the extended shock, trying to bow it outward, as the top of the shock is mounted to the shock tower cap and cannot move.  At that point I lowered it to the ground and installed the lower nuts with the car on the ground, and did the opposite side R&R without lifting it.  While the rubber shock bushings no doubt take a beating when the car is raised and the wheel is lowered, I think its the force trying to bend the shock into an arc that seems to be the problem, and I would bet the reason for the tool that Ford created.  There really isn't any weight bearing down on the top shock bushing when its raised because the extension of the shock allows it to rest at the bottom point of the the control arm arc.  Before this weekend I would have said this tool was no big deal, but now I'm not so sure.  I don't know if I will raise the car in the future without disconnecting the top shock mount and removing the shock tower cap.  Food for thought.

Scott

The shock lower end mounts to the spring seat/perch. It sounds like the bushing in the spring perch is not moving very much. As the suspension moves up and down the springs should cause the perch to rotate and not place a large side load on the shocks.

Don is correct here. I had the same "side load" issue with mine. The spring perches installed there is no issue with side load on the shocks.

 

[mustang7173]

All,

I have used my Ford Front Suspension Support Tool by Tommy Zees several times now. Whether you make your own or purchase a set, this is one tool that keeps the front suspension from putting UN-nesscary pressure on the struts, shocks and joints. BTW, when I changed out the coil springs recently, I was able to remove and re-install the shocks with ease.

mustang7173

 

[BeerDontCount]

Aha! That makes sense. Another part to replace..

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Don C]

I know what you mean, seems like every time I look at of work on one thing I see something else...

 

[Don C]

All,

I have used my Ford Front Suspension Support Tool by Tommy Zees several times now. Whether you make your own or purchase a set, this is one tool that keeps the front suspension from putting UN-nesscary pressure on the struts, shocks and joints. BTW, when I changed out the coil springs recently, I was able to remove and re-install the shocks with ease.

mustang7173

How is the installation? Doable by one person?

 

[mustang7173]

All,

I have used my Ford Front Suspension Support Tool by Tommy Zees several times now. Whether you make your own or purchase a set, this is one tool that keeps the front suspension from putting UN-nesscary pressure on the struts, shocks and joints. BTW, when I changed out the coil springs recently, I was able to remove and re-install the shocks with ease.

mustang7173

How is the installation? Doable by one person?

Don,

Now, that was a bit tough. I was able to lean the tool until I was able to jack the front up. Is it easier when you have another body around? A big Yes!

mustang7173

 

[Don C]

That was what I figured. I'll probably make a set one of these days, see if I can incorporate something that will hold them in place while jacking.

EDIT: I took another look at the article about Perkin's home-made tool. It shows a picture of the original Ford tool and it looks like it was designed for one person use. The bottom of the tool has an angle and slot that appears to be designed to fit over the flange on the frame rail that supports and keeps the tool positioned while lifting the front of the car.

http://www.average-guys-car-restoration-mods-racing.com/lift-classic-mustangs-and-avoid-suspension-damage/

 

[NOT A T5]

It might be funny but I must be the only guy that doesn't have any problems when jacking up the front of the car. My upper control arms aren't touching the frame when the car is in the air, maybe because my spring perches are the roller kind with poly bushings, I don't know!

 

[Don C]

The concern from people is that the weight of the front suspension hangs on the shock bushings, compressing and damaging them. Personally I'm not concerned about it. However, they are very useful for working on the front suspension.

 

[NOT A T5]

No worries there, I'm using polyurethane shock bushings!

 

[Spike Morelli]

I have just used 2x4s between the frame and the upper control arm. Although the wood blocks don't hold the upper arm as high as the tool described, the arms are still held away from full drop, and, as others have said here, making lower arm replacement or ball joint replacement much easier.

On another note, about the stress the shocks take, I have actually seen where a brand new shock ( won't mention name ), had the lower crossbar mounting break right off when lifting the car without the upper arm supported. O.K., granted, that is probably rare, and the shock was likely defective, but it served to illustrate that a hanging suspension puts some measureable stress on the shock's weakest part, the lower crossbar welds.

Just food for thought….

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

No worries there, I'm using polyurethane shock bushings!

They will split also we use to use poly springs in dies and they did not last as long as the rubber would just crumble up. They make Die Springs out of rubber and they have a fiber outer layer sort of like a tire does so they do not split for a very long time. Someone should make them for the shocks rubber has a better ride than poly and never squeaks. Danly was the supplier might go look and see what I can find. You can turn rubber in a lathe but you use a sharp pointed scribe not a conventional cutting tool that will not work unless you put in liquid nitrogen and freeze.

If they make a small enough diameter could cut to length for the shocks.

OK I found the springs I was referring to. They are called MarshMellow and there is a size of 1 1/8 O.D. with 5/16" ID will check out originals rubber ones might be a better solution with the reinforced outside on them. https://www.daytonlamina.com/sites/default/files/doc/MarshMellowDieSprings.pdf