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Eric

.. You think you dont have knowlege, He== I dont know what a Trsh Metal Band is. I know of heavy metal!! LOL

And for what its worth, No one gets experience overnight or without trying new things. All the internet sites in the world can"t give you that, they only provide information.

 
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Eric

.. You think you dont have knowlege, He== I dont know what a Trsh Metal Band is. I know of heavy metal!! LOL

And for what its worth, No one gets experience overnight or without trying new things. All the internet sites in the world can"t give you that, they only provide information.
Click to expand...
hahaha I know I guess I was to busy being in bands when I was younger hahaha As far as what Thrash Metal is. That is What Metallica was until their 3rd album you might of head other names like Slayer And Anthrax {Ok now we will be monitored because I wrote the word Anthrax on the site} But yeah Thrash metal was the crossing of heavy metal and punk witch resulted in a faster paced and more politically oriented heavy metal.

hahaha now you got me started :p for a listen of thrash metal go to http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-bands-video

That is my former band.



Eric

.. You think you dont have knowlege, He== I dont know what a Trsh Metal Band is. I know of heavy metal!! LOL

And for what its worth, No one gets experience overnight or without trying new things. All the internet sites in the world can"t give you that, they only provide information.
Click to expand...
hahaha I know I guess I was to busy being in bands when I was younger hahaha As far as what Thrash Metal is. That is What Metallica was until their 3rd album you might of head other names like Slayer And Anthrax {Ok now we will be monitored because I wrote the word Anthrax on the site} But yeah Thrash metal was the crossing of heavy metal and punk witch resulted in a faster paced and more politically oriented heavy metal.

hahaha now you got me started :p for a listen of thrash metal go to http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-bands-video

That is my former band.
Click to expand...

If Anyone likes it I still have some CD's or vinyl's for sale :p

 
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OK Mark this would be my humble approach. While its open I would try to fit my connectors and get everything where I wanted it. Then I think i would go ahead with my floors. And then come back and install the connectors. My reason being sometimes floors take alittle massaging and tlc to get them aligned properly, so I would feel more comfortable making my floor cut after there installed instead of trying to cut them last and not being able to get a good fit and ending up with big gaps. The downside being you will need a whole on top to weld the top of the connectors. So your decision Everybody has preferences as to how to preform a task. Ya know what they say, MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE..
Click to expand...
I agree ..What I will add is that there is no need for fitting before the floor is in since all over the shelf connectors are made to be installed without cutting the floor..except for The competition engineering ones, They DO REQUIRE cutting the floor pan..The others are designed to be welding in assuming your not doing a floor replacement.. The other reason it's not necessary is that you want the car supported EXACTLY how it sits on all 4 wheels to fit & install the connectors. So unless your fabbing a custom made home brew set no need to fit before the floor is in . Here's what's available over the shelf.. The only one I know of that fit the verts is the tin man fab ones..

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Year/1972/Make/FORD/Model/MUSTANG/Department/Chassis-Suspension/Part-Type/Subframe-Connectors-Weld-On/?Ns=Rank|Asc

 
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OK Mark this would be my humble approach. While its open I would try to fit my connectors and get everything where I wanted it. Then I think i would go ahead with my floors. And then come back and install the connectors. My reason being sometimes floors take alittle massaging and tlc to get them aligned properly, so I would feel more comfortable making my floor cut after there installed instead of trying to cut them last and not being able to get a good fit and ending up with big gaps. The downside being you will need a whole on top to weld the top of the connectors. So your decision Everybody has preferences as to how to preform a task. Ya know what they say, MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE..
Click to expand...
I agree ..What I will add is that there is no need for fitting before the floor is in since all over the shelf connectors are made to be installed without cutting the floor..except for The competition engineering ones, They DO REQUIRE cutting the floor pan..The others are designed to be welding in assuming your not doing a floor replacement.. The other reason it's not necessary is that you want the car supported EXACTLY how it sits on all 4 wheels to fit & install the connectors. So unless your fabbing a custom made home brew set no need to fit before the floor is in . Here's what's available over the shelf.. The only one I know of that fit the verts is the tin man fab ones..

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Year/1972/Make/FORD/Model/MUSTANG/Department/Chassis-Suspension/Part-Type/Subframe-Connectors-Weld-On/?Ns=Rank|Asc
Click to expand...
Agreed I guess I was still thinking of Wrench Turners original question, which mentioned cutting the floors.


I was just in the shower and got to thinking about this thread, and decided that I want to bring uo one point and then I"ll shutup.

Many of the theories and practices that we talk about are really not needed for the average or even semi modified car. To me many of the things we try to change are more for our ego than for the car. It is as has been said, What are your intended uses for the car? If your like me and just want a street screamer then why spend thousands when a few hundred will get you there.

One of my favorites is FAST E his car stands tall, has had big blocks and small blocks But I dont think he has added a tremendous amount of equipment he didnt need and he still races it regulary. Now if your planning on 7 or 800 hundred horse then get your wallet out because youll need it.

I say this for some of the younger members who are just starting out, and dont want to give them the impression that this stuff is a mandatory thing.

OK I"m done

 
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OK Mark this would be my humble approach. While its open I would try to fit my connectors and get everything where I wanted it. Then I think i would go ahead with my floors. And then come back and install the connectors. My reason being sometimes floors take alittle massaging and tlc to get them aligned properly, so I would feel more comfortable making my floor cut after there installed instead of trying to cut them last and not being able to get a good fit and ending up with big gaps. The downside being you will need a whole on top to weld the top of the connectors. So your decision Everybody has preferences as to how to preform a task. Ya know what they say, MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE..
Click to expand...
I agree ..What I will add is that there is no need for fitting before the floor is in since all over the shelf connectors are made to be installed without cutting the floor..except for The competition engineering ones, They DO REQUIRE cutting the floor pan..The others are designed to be welding in assuming your not doing a floor replacement.. The other reason it's not necessary is that you want the car supported EXACTLY how it sits on all 4 wheels to fit & install the connectors. So unless your fabbing a custom made home brew set no need to fit before the floor is in . Here's what's available over the shelf.. The only one I know of that fit the verts is the tin man fab ones..

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Year/1972/Make/FORD/Model/MUSTANG/Department/Chassis-Suspension/Part-Type/Subframe-Connectors-Weld-On/?Ns=Rank|Asc
Click to expand...
Scott,

I don't think the Tin Man's fit the verts. Perhaps you meant the GW 911C on the page you referenced?

Great discussion BTW!

 
OK Mark this would be my humble approach. While its open I would try to fit my connectors and get everything where I wanted it. Then I think i would go ahead with my floors. And then come back and install the connectors. My reason being sometimes floors take alittle massaging and tlc to get them aligned properly, so I would feel more comfortable making my floor cut after there installed instead of trying to cut them last and not being able to get a good fit and ending up with big gaps. The downside being you will need a whole on top to weld the top of the connectors. So your decision Everybody has preferences as to how to preform a task. Ya know what they say, MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE..
Click to expand...
I agree ..What I will add is that there is no need for fitting before the floor is in since all over the shelf connectors are made to be installed without cutting the floor..except for The competition engineering ones, They DO REQUIRE cutting the floor pan..The others are designed to be welding in assuming your not doing a floor replacement.. The other reason it's not necessary is that you want the car supported EXACTLY how it sits on all 4 wheels to fit & install the connectors. So unless your fabbing a custom made home brew set no need to fit before the floor is in . Here's what's available over the shelf.. The only one I know of that fit the verts is the tin man fab ones..

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Year/1972/Make/FORD/Model/MUSTANG/Department/Chassis-Suspension/Part-Type/Subframe-Connectors-Weld-On/?Ns=Rank|Asc
Click to expand...
Scott,

I don't think the Tin Man's fit the verts. Perhaps you meant the GW 911C on the page you referenced?

Great discussion BTW!
Click to expand...
Cut & paste from the Tin Man site

"Tin Man developed a unique style of subframe connectors that fit 1965-1973 Mustang hard tops, convertibles, even 1967-1970 Mercury Cougars!

They are the most robust on the market being made of 2" x 2" x 11 gauge steel and are bent to follow the contours of the floor pans — no cutting of the floor pan is necessary. This product drastically stiffens the body of the vehicle. These connectors will work on Mustang convertibles with minor cutting and welding to the floor reinforcement pan (typical on all convertibles)."

 
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My $.02...

Yes it is a Fox car, and yes it is a convert, but I installed some simple, inexpensive, straight 1-1/2"ish thinwall round tube weld ins on my '90 that were sourced from ebay years ago. I added some 1" L-angle for seat braces (bolts to 2 of the seat bolts) for additional tie in points.

Along with the standard small tube style strut tower brace (triangulated to firewall), the improvement was unbelievable. Ride, braking, rattle elimination... street car only... I can't explain how much of a difference it made.

The car is bone stock otherwise.

My '71 will get weld ins, no bolts. I consider them a must on any unibody car, stock or not. All of the rocket science and physics theories need not apply in my mind. They don't have to be complicated pieces. I have seen the light with my own 2 eyes. Git-R-Dun, and have some fun!

You won't be sorry.

 
My $.02...

Yes it is a Fox car, and yes it is a convert, but I installed some simple, inexpensive, straight 1-1/2"ish thinwall round tube weld ins on my '90 that were sourced from ebay years ago. I added some 1" L-angle for seat braces (bolts to 2 of the seat bolts) for additional tie in points.

Along with the standard small tube style strut tower brace (triangulated to firewall), the improvement was unbelievable. Ride, braking, rattle elimination... street car only... I can't explain how much of a difference it made.

The car is bone stock otherwise.

My '71 will get weld ins, no bolts. I consider them a must on any unibody car, stock or not. All of the rocket science and physics theories need not apply in my mind. They don't have to be complicated pieces. I have seen the light with my own 2 eyes. Git-R-Dun, and have some fun!

You won't be sorry.
Click to expand...
+ 1

 
Hello everyone, got a question concerning subframe connectors, im currently installing new floor pans and the car has a 4 point roll bar installed however theres no frame ties. now im not keen on the bolt in style (if there are any even) nor the weld ins. has anyone built there own frame connectors? ones that connect both front and rear frames but also tie into the rocker for added rigidity. ive thought about using 2x3 steel stock to make my own but figured id ask to see if anyone has already done it. ive seen it done on foxbody mustangs. any pics would be great! i dont mind cutting on the new floors to get this done i think the benefits outweigh the cost. thanks all!
Click to expand...
Reference the rocker panel stiffeners. http://www.globalwest.net/67-73-mustang-body-and-frame-stifners.html

Chuck

 
My $.02...

Yes it is a Fox car, and yes it is a convert, but I installed some simple, inexpensive, straight 1-1/2"ish thinwall round tube weld ins on my '90 that were sourced from ebay years ago. I added some 1" L-angle for seat braces (bolts to 2 of the seat bolts) for additional tie in points.

Along with the standard small tube style strut tower brace (triangulated to firewall), the improvement was unbelievable. Ride, braking, rattle elimination... street car only... I can't explain how much of a difference it made.

The car is bone stock otherwise.

My '71 will get weld ins, no bolts. I consider them a must on any unibody car, stock or not. All of the rocket science and physics theories need not apply in my mind. They don't have to be complicated pieces. I have seen the light with my own 2 eyes. Git-R-Dun, and have some fun!

You won't be sorry.
Click to expand...
AMEN !!!! Nuf said.

 
I've got a CE 6 point rollcage welded in along with CE subframes below. I had chrome plated my shock tower braces several years ago, not sure if that made them more rigid or not. I can jack the car up from any point and the body panel gaps don't change anymore, so for most purposes, I would say that these modifications are all that's necessary. For an all out track car, additional reinforcement might be necessary, I suppose.

 
I like these from Maier racing. They have more attachment points than the GW pieces. Problem is they are not offered for our cars. I plan to use this as the pattern for mine.

http://www.maierracing.com/
Click to expand...
Their x-brace looks interesting as well.

 
I like these from Maier racing. They have more attachment points than the GW pieces. Problem is they are not offered for our cars. I plan to use this as the pattern for mine.

http://www.maierracing.com/
Click to expand...
What about the fancy shock tower to firewall brace, do they work well:dodgy:
Click to expand...
Yes they Do ! R..how bout giving them a call & see if they fit ours ? Would save me the hassle of fabbing my own.

 

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