Front brake line bushings, and tubing bender

[klinton994]

Where can I purchase the correct front brake line bushing that installs in the right shock tower? This is a single hole bushing. I have found them for 68-70 but not for our years. I don't want to purchase an install kit with clips just to get the bushing.

The two hole bushing that installs on the left shock tower appears readily available.

I am also interested on suggestions for a tool for massaging or bending the tubing so that it forms neatly to the fire wall in the area of the vacuum canister, as well as forming the lines neatly to pass through the grommets in the shock towers.

Thanks in advance

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Where can I purchase the correct front brake line bushing that installs in the right shock tower? This is a single hole bushing. I have found them for 68-70 but not for our years. I don't want to purchase an install kit with clips just to get the bushing.

The two hole bushing that installs on the left shock tower appears readily available.

I am also interested on suggestions for a tool for massaging or bending the tubing so that it forms neatly to the fire wall in the area of the vacuum canister, as well as forming the lines neatly to pass through the grommets in the shock towers.

Thanks in advance

Even with the best tube bender you can find and flaring tools brake lines are a beast. The best way I have ever found to make bends in any tubing without the chance of flattening or kinks is to fill the tubing with this material. Sand or glass beads just does not do it.

http://www.shop.boltonmetalproducts.com/Bolton-158-Cerrobend-5000-7-LB100004.htm

I think this is the correct one just tell them what you are doing and they will set you straight.

This material melts in boiling water so easy to remove. You warm up the tube fill with the material make your bends and you melt out with boiling water or a heat gun. The material made for tube bending actually expands slightly when cooled to put the tube under pressure. It is cheap stuff and not dangerous.

The double flares on the connections are difficult unless you buy a good flaring tool also.

My teacher in tech school made a mold that he could cast spoons in would give someone a cup of hot coffee and one of the fake spoons and when they would stir the coffee the spoon would melt and freak them out. He was a fun teacher.

http://www.shop.boltonmetalproducts.com/images/Cerrobend.jpg[/img]

 

[Fabrice]

You could use copper lines. Did my tbird with them. As some rust on the originals prevented the car to pass the yearly tech control. You do not get the frustration to flatten them on that very last bend (been there), as its delivered as a coil, you have to straighten by hand and once painted you don't see the diff. They will also never rust. Flaring them, goes much more easy than with harder metal tubing, the softness also serves well as sealant, never had a leak.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

You could use copper lines. Did my tbird with them. As some rust on the originals prevented the car to pass the yearly tech control. You do not get the frustration to flatten them on that very last bend (been there), as its delivered as a coil, you have to straighten by hand and once painted you don't see the diff. They will also never rust. Flaring them, goes much more easy than with harder metal tubing, the softness also serves well as sealant, never had a leak.

That is very dangerous. You need to replace ASAP. Brakes work with high pressure and copper is not made for the pressures. That is why they use the steel to start with. Copper also work hardens if in a vibration and will crack for sure with age.

One day you will slam on the brakes and blow the line and wish they were steel.

One of the things before I go for a drive is press the brake pedal as hard as I can before I leave to test the system integrity. If something is about to blow I want it in the driveway.

I blew a master cylinder on a 65 vert which is only single cylinder and almost took out a school bus one morning. Emergency brake and cram in first gear saved me.

 

[73MustangCoupe]

Hey David, Fabrice may be using NiCopp brake lines.  From the manufacturer's web site,  Nickel-copper, commonly referred to as '90-10 copper', has been used on several European vehicle brake systems since the 1970's, including: Volvo, Audi, Porsche, and Aston Martin.  I agree with you, though, that if they are pure copper lines, they need to be replaced.