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[NOT A T5]

HI ALL!  FINALLY I got my 302 Windsor engine started and she sounds pretty darn healthy. It was my Pertronix Ignitor 1 module that crapped out when I first posted about not being able to get my engine started. So I ordered another Pertronix 1 and voila, fired right up! Broke in camshaft and lifters at 3000 RPM for 30 minutes, don't have an exhaust yet, just headers. No leaks other than one valve cover which is fixed now. My AMP gauge was converted to read VOLTS by Rocketman, it works, but every few seconds it shows a drop in voltage and I can hear a pop and the reading goes back up. My belts are a little loose but I will tighten them up. Temperature gauge reads a little low and oil pressure gauge shows close to center. 3 original gauges were added to the car.

BIGGEST problem is that my brake pedal is totally hard! Not moving at all, I guess I have get that adjustable rod out of there to take care of that. Maybe I can post a short video. Thanks for all the advice and help!

 

[mikeyhunts]

Congrats man!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Pegleg]

You will be out flying in the car before you know it

 

[turtle5353]

Congrats.

If your pedal is rock hard that may be a sign that the brake booster crapped out.

 

[NOT A T5]

Booster has been rebuilt by Booster Dewey, all new stainless steel lines and fresh fluid! I haven't bled anything yet, just wondering why my pedal won't move! I think I wanna buy a vacuum pump to bleed the brakes first and test the booster. Everything on this car has been gone through, but still doing body panel repair, then hopefully primer and paint by summer/fall.

 

[Bill73Ragtop]

When you get to the point of checking the air gap for the adjuster rod in the master cylinder using a small pea sized lump of plumber's putty, try this:

Cut a small width of saran wrap that will fit down into the bore with two ends hanging out; drop in the putty and fit the MC to the booster nice and tight. When you removed the MC, use the saran wrap ends to gently pull the squished putty out. Slice in half with razor blade and measure the gap.

Repeat as needed until you have the air gap you need.

 

[SVO2SCJ]

When restoring , repairing or fixing brakes the OFTEN neglected (and almost always needed) proportioning valve REBUILD is recommended !

After doing both the 69 and the 71 AND SEEING how bad it was inside - it is never not considered in the maintanence of brakes IMO.

https://www.musclecarresearch.com/valve-kit-kh

Mark

P.S. I don't think this is you issue ....but not knowing what lines and old/new and IF there is mismatched parts/pedals or assembly I can't say yet.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Getting a hand vacuum pump is a great idea. You can use to test vacuum motors on air cleaner, ram air, fuel pump, heater box and also bleed your brakes without help. Be sure to hook the pump up so that the fluid goes into the catch can and not the pump.

I tried to check brake booster with hand vacuum pump when Booster Dewey sent back but could not get any vacuum. Dewey said the hand pump was too small and assured me they did check before shipping. So I put the booster on and it worked fine.

I am going to start to rebuild my own. The shipping to Oregon is more than the rebuild costs. Will see what parts I can find NPD has some listed. I think it is another of those things people are afraid of because of not knowing what is involved.

 

[NOT A T5]

Thanks for all the replies guys! Nothing was swapped or altered on my brakes but brake lines. When I start my car the "BRAKES" light is on and stays on.

 

[Don C]

Replace or rebuild the combination/proportioning valve.