Head identification

[basstrix]

The boss 351 head provides the ability to adjust the rocker arms and a stiffer/stronger mount for the rocker arms. This allows for solid lifters and stiffer valve springs = higher RPM = more horsepower. Any of the cleveland heads can be modified as such. The D1AE-GA casting number was used on both boss and M code 351's. Other than the above, they are identical. The combustion chambers of the D1AE heads are reported to be ~3cc's larger than the D0AE castings.

 

[Stanglover]

The reason I was curious was the size of the studs

Just by eye-balling the bottom thread, it looks to be 5/16", which I guess are an aftermarket conversion so there is no need the re-drill and tap the holes, just remove the lugs, but I could be wrong. Factory studs are 7/16" top and bottom. One can have any head machined for screw in studs apparently. I have a set of D0AE N heads that have been machined for studs and guide plate, which have Boss 302 numbers stamped in.

 

[Stanglover]

This code is from the rusty heads without the screw in studs

That looks to be 1969 October 6th, which are D0AE N heads are they not, no dot after the "4"?

 

[1972Mach1]

Pretty sure the code is 9K6 and there is no dot beside the 4

 

[basstrix]

Let's not get off track here, fellas, he clearly has D1AE-GA castings.

 

[1972Mach1]

I didn't mean to make this confusing, I have two sets, the D1AE heads and the rusty D0AE sets. I was just curious about the D1AE heads with the screw in studs. I'll check the thread size of the studs on the D1AE heads tomorrow and let you know.

 

[basstrix]

Ahhh yes, I forgot there was another set being shown for comparison.

 

[Stanglover]

Pretty sure the code is 9K6 and there is no dot beside the 4

Yes, not to get off track, but your heads are very close to the date codes on my set, which I believe were off a 70 Cleveland @ 11:1 comp ratio. The chambers should be a mean average of 62.8cc. From what I've learned here in recent months, D1AE-GA heads with the *(which I have on my 71 Mach) are 64cc @ an advertised 10.7:1 comp ratio.

 

[1972Mach1]

I went and checked the size of the valve spring studs, both ends measured 7/16", or I should say both ends would not fit in the 3/8" hole on the gauge. Also I took a Ford bell housing bolt and it threaded in fine.

 

[Stanglover]

I went and checked the size of the valve spring studs, both ends measured 7/16", or I should say both ends would not fit in the 3/8" hole on the gauge. Also I took a Ford bell housing bolt and it threaded in fine.

Ok. It must just have been the angle you took the picture that made the screw in end look smaller. From what I've gleaned from here and there, your heads, like mine were done properly, not that aftermarket make-do stuff. As long as there are no cracks in those heads, you will have good heads for a performance build...... or at least, so I'm told!!

Hope you have what you need now,

Geoff.

Just a thought, those rusty heads would be a good candidate for the "Molasses Tank treatment".

 

[1972Mach1]

Ok, thanks for the info!!! I'll now be googling molasses tank treatment to see how to do that!!! lol

 

[73pony]

9 parts water 1 part feed grade molasses. Soak for a couple weeks. Remove and clean throughly.

 

[Stanglover]

Ok, thanks for the info!!! I'll now be googling molasses tank treatment to see how to do that!!! lol

It's been talked about loads on here. Basically, go buy some Molasses and dilute it 9:1 with water. Find a plastic tub, tank or whatever big enough to totally cover the heads and let it soak for a week or two, more if necessary. A farmer friend of mine suggested getting animal feed grade molasses as it's cheaper, but you'll need to go to a farm feed store or friendly cattle farmer to get it.

I still have a block in the shed I want to clean, but just too lazy to get to it. I'll need a 50 gal drum for that and a couple of gallons of molasses I'm thinking. Molasses will NOT take paint or grease off, just rust.

Good luck with it!

 

[Stanglover]

9 parts water 1 part feed grade molasses. Soak for a couple weeks. Remove and clean throughly.

Well you beat me to it by 3 mins!!!

 

[1972Mach1]

Sounds easy enough, what about the rust in the threaded holes, no chance of it eating away at the threads?

 

[Stanglover]

Sounds easy enough, what about the rust in the threaded holes, no chance of it eating away at the threads?

No, it won't touch the metal. The only way it could affect the threads as I see it, would be if the RUST had already eaten away at the threads. That would definitely determine if the heads were good without having thread inserts put in and that could be costly to be done right.

 

[73pony]

Being as you are in southern Indiana try a local tractor supply store or farm and fleet or fleet farm. They will have the feed grade molasses in gallon jugs for less then $10.

 

[73pony]

Just be warned. I set up my tank in the basement and put some rubber seal around the top so the lid would be air tight. Be prepared when you open it. You will have to skim off the scum and it will stink badly. My wife was not happy.

 

[1972Mach1]

I picked up a gallon of the molasses and a heavy plastic tote, I'll attempt this concoction tomorrow. As for offending the wife, I'm kinda lucky, no wife but I have an ex wife!!! A wins a win!!! lol

I'll do this at my shop (pole barn) near a window!!!

 

[Stanglover]

I picked up a gallon of the molasses and a heavy plastic tote, I'll attempt this concoction tomorrow. As for offending the wife, I'm kinda lucky, no wife but I have an ex wife!!! A wins a win!!! lol

I'll do this at my shop (pole barn) near a window!!!

Let us know in a couple of weeks how it turned out.......... maybe longer if it freezes!!

Yes, definitley a win for you (wife). I was dumb enough to do it twice, although as it's been 28 years now, and not too bad overall. Oh, the toys I could've had!!!