Help Me Spend My Money

[Kilgon]

Well, it’s time to break open the pocket book and let some of the moths out.  :biggrin:    Below is my wish list of items and upgrades I want for the car to do over the winter months.  Although I would like to get them all I need to keep within my $1,500 to $2,000 budget.   

Car runs good and handles fairly well but there is always room for improvements.   I would like to get opinions on what couple of things out of the list to do first.  I figure a lot of you have already been down this road and might have wished you did things differently.   

The  Wish  List,

Classic Auto Air A/C System

Addco Front & Rear Sway Bars

Rear Disc Brake Upgrade Kit

Ram Air Plenum

EFI – Sniper – Fitech  - MSD

Progression Ignition Distributor

AOD Tranny – Currently Have a C6

Thanks for your  suggestions.

 

[Bentworker]

I’d probably do rear disk brakes, Progressive ignition distributor, and a larger front sway bar only.

 

[Don C]

Because of your limited budget (I'm in the same boat) there are some things you can do to reduce the load on your billfold and preserve some moths. Because you want an EFI, I would get one that controls the timing and go with a DuraSpark ignition and save 3 or $400 instead of using a distributor that controls timing.

Because you have a 460 sitting in front of the C6 you will need a well  built AOD and an adapter. You might want to consider a Gear Vendors overdrive, may result in some savings, there.

Convert your rear brakes to Fairlane drums and shoes, much cheaper than a disk brake conversion, and nearly as effective.

Yes, get a beefier front sway bar.

Unless you plan on moving to Arizona to keep Midlife company I would skip the A/C for a while.

Ram Air would be the last thing I would think about, just get the Ram Air graphics for your hood.

 

[Kilgon]

Because of your limited budget (I'm in the same boat) there are some things you can do to reduce the load on your billfold and preserve some moths. Because you want an EFI, I would get one that controls the timing and go with a DuraSpark ignition and save 3 or $400 instead of using a distributor that controls timing.

Because you have a 460 sitting in front of the C6 you will need a well  built AOD and an adapter. You might want to consider a Gear Vendors overdrive, may result in some savings, there.

Convert your rear brakes to Fairlane drums and shoes, much cheaper than a disk brake conversion, and nearly as effective.

Yes, get a beefier front sway bar.

Unless you plan on moving to Arizona to keep Midlife company I would skip the A/C for a while.

Ram Air would be the last thing I would think about, just get the Ram Air graphics for your hood.

Good ideas.  I already have  a Duraspark so going that route would be a savings.     Gear Vendors would be all my money and then some.  Front sway bar is probably going to happen.

 

[Kilgon]

I’d probably do rear disk brakes, Progressive ignition distributor, and a larger front sway bar only.

Would fit the budget and leave me a few dollars  to buy a beer or two.

 

[Don C]

Good ideas.  I already have  a Duraspark so going that route would be a savings.     Gear Vendors would be all my money and then some.  Front sway bar is probably going to happen.

Just an adapter for the AOD will run you $800.

FO102 Ford 429/460 to Ford AOD — Speed Gems (transmissionadapters.com)

Even if you build the AOD yourself, by the time you buy the transmission and rebuild kit/parts it will consume most of your budget. If you outsource the AOD, it and the adapter will likely cost more than a Gear Vendors. I kept thinking about an 4R70W and its lower first gear, but the built transmission and controller would cost about the same as the G.V. overdrive.

 

[c9zx]

Do you have a clear vision of where you want the car to be when it is "finished"? If you do, let that guide your decisions on what to do next.  It sounds like you are looking for a cruiser (A/C and overdrive). With the 460 anything you can do to get weight off the front end would be beneficial (battery to the trunk, aluminum intake, heads, water pump). Also do you have the 429 springs on the car? A larger front anti-sway bar with poly bushings would likely improve the handling. I'd skip the rear disc brakes. With the 460 (or any V-8) they are not doing much to begin with, some semi-metallic shoes may help a bit. I'd also skip the ram air, it is mostly a "looks cool item" for me. You can buy a lot of gas (even at Let's go Brandon prices) for what it would cost to fit an AOD that would live behind the 460. Perhaps a tire upgrade for better handling and braking. There is no end to the list of things to be done to make the into what you want. Good luck with the winter time projects. Chuck

 

[Lazarus]

Well I don’t mean to focus on the negatives, but seems to me the best way to help is to eliminate a few options. I can’t really weigh some of them (like AC vs overdrive for example) without knowing your personal preferences, but I can tell you several items will do practically nothing other than be interesting talking points. 
 

The ram air setup and the rear discs will give you almost no performance improvements. I have rear discs on my 72 vert and drums on my 73 vert; factory power discs on both in the front. No discernible difference really. The factory drums really are pretty good, and some modern components would make them even better for way less effort and expense, as others state above. Unless you have big open rims and the look of the drum bugs you, save that upgrade for when you have hit the lottery and all the functional upgrades are done. 
 

I also would love to have a ram air system, just to make those air ducts functional and have the emblem on the hood, but doing a quick search on the forums will show you that folks who install them have absolutely no performance difference. It is a VERY cool talking point, but adds no horses. 

A few other notes... I am all for the upgraded sway bars, but make sure you do them both. The front should be beefier than rear, but not as much as would be with a 1 1/8” new front and a 50 year old stock 1/2” in rear.  That would make the rear feel unstable in the turns, and you’d probably want the rear bar after the first test drive. Get both, with around a 1/4” difference in thickness between front and rear. 
 

 

[Kilgon]

Do you have a clear vision of where you want the car to be when it is "finished"? If you do, let that guide your decisions on what to do next.  It sounds like you are looking for a cruiser (A/C and overdrive). With the 460 anything you can do to get weight off the front end would be beneficial (battery to the trunk, aluminum intake, heads, water pump). Also do you have the 429 springs on the car? A larger front anti-sway bar with poly bushings would likely improve the handling. I'd skip the rear disc brakes. With the 460 (or any V-8) they are not doing much to begin with, some semi-metallic shoes may help a bit. I'd also skip the ram air, it is mostly a "looks cool item" for me. You can buy a lot of gas (even at Let's go Brandon prices) for what it would cost to fit an AOD that would live behind the 460. Perhaps a tire upgrade for better handling and braking. There is no end to the list of things to be done to make the into what you want. Good luck with the winter time projects. Chuck

As the car sits I am happy with it.  I am looking for the things that will both add to performance and also "looks cool" like the ram air.   I put less than 500 miles a year on the car but that is partially due to not driving it when the temperature gets up into the upper 80's and above.   Even though I insulated the firewall and floors it gets extremely hot inside because of the headers.   Also here in Ohio 90 degree temps with high humidity turns the inside into a sauna. The next time (if) I have the headers off I plan to wrap them.  A/C would = more drive time.  Springs were replaced when my brother had the 460 put in it.

I got thinking about the EFI again last night and that may get taken off the list for now.   I've been hesitant on the EFI due to the headers..  Two of the pipes on each side are two piece and I'm afraid it might affect the O2 sensor reading.  I've been meaning to ask around on the forum to see if anyone is running Hookers 6115's with EFI and if they have had any issues because of them.  I took some exhaust tape and wrapped around the joints to try to seal them so I could use a wide band O2 for tuning but I don't know if I would trust that with EFI. 

Overdrive would be nice to keep the rpm's down and the gas mileage up.  Currently with the C6 and 3:73 rear end I'm turning 3000 rpms at 65 mph.  As Don C mention GV might be the way to go.  Besides being able to keep the C6 for its toughness it's also the simplest of them to do and it would lower my rpms down to about 2400 at 65 mph.       

I have decided to definitely upgrade the front sway bar so there goes $250.   I am also leaning toward the Progressive distributor if I don't go to EFI. 

 

[Kilgon]

Well I don’t mean to focus on the negatives, but seems to me the best way to help is to eliminate a few options. I can’t really weigh some of them (like AC vs overdrive for example) without knowing your personal preferences, but I can tell you several items will do practically nothing other than be interesting talking points. 
 

The ram air setup and the rear discs will give you almost no performance improvements. I have rear discs on my 72 vert and drums on my 73 vert; factory power discs on both in the front. No discernible difference really. The factory drums really are pretty good, and some modern components would make them even better for way less effort and expense, as others state above. Unless you have big open rims and the look of the drum bugs you, save that upgrade for when you have hit the lottery and all the functional upgrades are done. 
 

I also would love to have a ram air system, just to make those air ducts functional and have the emblem on the hood, but doing a quick search on the forums will show you that folks who install them have absolutely no performance difference. It is a VERY cool talking point, but adds no horses. 

A few other notes... I am all for the upgraded sway bars, but make sure you do them both. The front should be beefier than rear, but not as much as would be with a 1 1/8” new front and a 50 year old stock 1/2” in rear.  That would make the rear feel unstable in the turns, and you’d probably want the rear bar after the first test drive. Get both, with around a 1/4” difference in thickness between front and rear. 
 

Good points.  I was thinking about doing the rear and will do both.  I will go with the Addco's.  I'll go with the 1.125 in front and the .875 in the rear. So now I'm up to $500.  I know the ram air is more looks than anything but yes I would like the "cool factor" of having it.  Still debating on that. From the opinions so far it looks like the rear disc brake upgrade is going to get scratch of the list.   

 

[Stanglover]

Good points.  I was thinking about doing the rear and will do both.  I will go with the Addco's.  I'll go with the 1.125 in front and the .875 in the rear. So now I'm up to $500.  I know the ram air is more looks than anything but yes I would like the "cool factor" of having it.  Still debating on that. From the opinions so far it looks like the rear disc brake upgrade is going to get scratch of the list.   

Kilgon, just make sure the rear sway bar is the NEW version of the 990 bar. I take it you have staggered shocks for the correct mount plates.

 

[tony-muscle]

In my experience after upgrading the suspension you get the best improvement in performance by getting some good tires. If you are running 14" or 15" wheels there are not too many options, but if you have 17" or 18" it opens the doors to a lot of High Performance Summer tires. However, this is an expensive upgrade that will eat about $1,000 of your budget and if you don't have big wheels it will put you up to $2,000 very quickly.

 

[Kilgon]

Kilgon, just make sure the rear sway bar is the NEW version of the 990 bar. I take it you have staggered shocks for the correct mount plates.

Yes it will be the new 990.  I have the correct mounting plates.  They are separate from the shock plate.

 

[Kilgon]

In my experience after upgrading the suspension you get the best improvement in performance by getting some good tires. If you are running 14" or 15" wheels there are not too many options, but if you have 17" or 18" it opens the doors to a lot of High Performance Summer tires. However, this is an expensive upgrade that will eat about $1,000 of your budget and if you don't have big wheels it will put you up to $2,000 very quickly.

I appreciate the input and from the pictures I've seen  I can say the bigger wheels do look nice.    I might  consider a change later on down the road but for now I'm going to stick with my 15" rims.   I not driving mine hardly at all compared to the amount you drive yours so I feel those dollars would be somewhat better used elsewhere on mine even if a few of them are for the cool things.  Seeing that I am probably going to scratch the EFI what's your thoughts on the Progressive dizzy? 

 

[Stanglover]

I appreciate the input and from the pictures I've seen  I can say the bigger wheels do look nice.    I might  consider a change later on down the road but for now I'm going to stick with my 15" rims.   I not driving mine hardly at all compared to the amount you drive yours so I feel those dollars would be somewhat better used elsewhere on mine even if a few of them are for the cool things.  Seeing that I am probably going to scratch the EFI what's your thoughts on the Progressive dizzy? 

 I'm just adding this here. I did a quick look at those distributors. They actually don't look too bad or out of place on a Cleveland engine, but if it were me, I still think I'd look closer at a properly curved and set up DuraSpark. By the way, it's Progression Distributors, not Progressive Distributors. Found that out when I searched Google. At the end of the day, it's your car, your money, your way. 

 

[Don C]

I'm not sure why you would dump the EFI in favor of an unknown ignition. You already have a good ignition, with the DuraSpark, and for $300 more than the Progression Distributor you can have a FiTech EFI.

 

[Kilgon]

I'm not sure why you would dump the EFI in favor of an unknown ignition. You already have a good ignition, with the DuraSpark, and for $300 more than the Progression Distributor you can have a FiTech EFI.

My headers are hookers 6115's.  2 of the pipes on each side are 2 pieces - one slides inside the other. Due to this fact I don't know if I can get a good enough seal as to have it not effect the O2 sensor downstream of them.  I have to make sure that whatever I use to try to seal them is something I can break loose fairly easily to get the pipes apart and the headers back off.   I hate to put out that kind of money and have it not work right.  

As I mentioned earlier I've been meaning to ask around on the forum to see if anyone is running Hookers 6115's with EFI and if they have had any issues because of them.  When I put in my O2 wide band sensor to use for tuning I tried some exhaust patch past at the joints but that didn't hold up. I took some exhaust tape and wrapped around the joints to try to seal them but I notice the other day that looks like it is starting to fail after about 4 months.   

 

[Blayne9067]

It’s normal for those headers to leak a tiny bit at the slip joints simply by design. I wouldn’t worry about it causing any issue with the O2 WB Sensor reading.

 

[Kilgon]

 I'm just adding this here. I did a quick look at those distributors. They actually don't look too bad or out of place on a Cleveland engine, but if it were me, I still think I'd look closer at a properly curved and set up DuraSpark. By the way, it's Progression Distributors, not Progressive Distributors. Found that out when I searched Google. At the end of the day, it's your car, your money, your way. 

Sorry about the misspelling. I will change  that on my post. I have my Duraspark re-curved.  It's all in around 2600.  I like the idea that with the Progression Distributor in a few second you can set a new curve in it.    I also like the 10 degree for start up and that it can be used for anti theft.    I am a little leary of them due to not being out in the market that long and only finding a few reviews.  There also is the issue of parts if something was to happen.  Alot to think about on this one.