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barnett468

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The machine shop refused to install these valves on my 351 Cleveland, they will use their own so they can warranty my engine :)
they wont use your valves but they use comp cam lifters . . thats pretty funny.

those are likely eaton valves made in china but no complaints of them breaking.

exactly what are the valves they want to install?

 
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Go Time

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if I read your post correctly the son deposited $3300.00 in your account, If that is correct I am so glad. Talk is cheap the fact that you got the cash that is great news.... I was worried you wouldn't see anything but promises.

 

salhi_aemr

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yes I got the cash in my bank already :) I will have to check with machine shop tomorrow about type of valves. its a hot rod machine shop and their reviews are excellent, they use the best parts, but just like you said maybe they do like the comp cam lifters

 

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thats the best news I heard all day, thanks for the update

 

barnett468

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yes I got the cash in my bank already :) I will have to check with machine shop tomorrow about type of valves. its a hot rod machine shop and their reviews are excellent, they use the best parts, but just like you said maybe they do like the comp cam lifters
as i mentioned, the comp lifters are crap . . they are inconsistent in quality and have a much higher failure rate than all the other brands.

i have been a comp dealer for around 20 years and quit selling the pos's because i got tired of sending bad ones back for warranty, plus the low budget ones are made in india if that matters.

 
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salhi_aemr

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OK i just got my motor back from machine shop, rebuilt and balanced time to put parts all together and paint it before it goes back in my car, now the machine shop did not recommend using Melling high volume oil pump cause they told me it will hurt with the regular oil pan size, this is the current oil pump in it but I want to change it since it may bad and the engine is already open, current one is Melling M84A, would you guys recommend using same on or go with something else, 351C with 4V closed chamber heads.

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c9zx

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The standard pump should be fine. I would use a heavy duty drive rod from ARP, Ford Racing, Milidon, etc.. Check pick up to pan clearance, 3/8"-1/2". A loose ball of aluminum foil works as a checking media. With the stock pan run an extra quart of oil in the pan (6 quarts total). Chuck

 

salhi_aemr

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c9zx

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is this one good? Melling - Oil Pump Shaf Part # IS84A 8.44" length by 5/16" hex stock replacement drive shaft. Meets or exceeds OE specifications. Made in U.S.A.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MEL0/IS84A/02339.oap?year=1973&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=5139484&ck=Search_02339_MEL_5139484_440&mn=Melling&mc=MEL&pt=02339&ppt=C0145
You could use that and probably not have a problem. I use the larger diameter in the middle ones. I view it as cheap insurance. This is a picture of the ARP part. Chuck

ARP.jpg

 
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The standard pump should be fine. I would use a heavy duty drive rod from ARP, Ford Racing, Milidon, etc.. Check pick up to pan clearance, 3/8"-1/2". A loose ball of aluminum foil works as a checking media. With the stock pan run an extra quart of oil in the pan (6 quarts total). Chuck
We are supposed to use 6 quarts of oil in a stock 351c w/stock oil pan?

 

barnett468

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the stock type pump is fine if you dont spin the engine over 5000 rpm . . if you do, i would put a washer under the relief valve spring or install a high pressure spring . . i would never run a stock oil pump shaft on any performance engine.

do you need break in suggestions?

is it a non roller cam?

i would also run a wix or jomar or ford racing oil filter

 

c9zx

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The standard pump should be fine. I would use a heavy duty drive rod from ARP, Ford Racing, Milidon, etc.. Check pick up to pan clearance, 3/8"-1/2". A loose ball of aluminum foil works as a checking media. With the stock pan run an extra quart of oil in the pan (6 quarts total). Chuck
We are supposed to use 6 quarts of oil in a stock 351c w/stock oil pan?
All the OEM 351C oil pans were of the same capacity and same external physical dimensions. The Boss, HO, and CJ had internal baffles. Click on this link and go about half way down the page to "dip stick". http://www.boss351registry.com/351_Cleveland.htm

Ford even put out an internal bulletin back in the day. Sorry I couldn't find a copy of it to post. Again, cheap insurance and no, it won't blow out any seals or hemorrhage oil. Chuck

 
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Chuck, it says 6 quarts for Boss & 5 quarts for CJ. Am I missing something? (thanks for posting that info, very cool) I just changed my oil w/5 quarts, should I add more. Sorry I didn't mean to change or take over this thread, glad Salhir got his motor rebuilt and paid for by the guy who messed it up.


Ok I just figured it out, same pans, just different dipstick calibrations. Thank's Chuck

 
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barnett468

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Chuck, it says 6 quarts for Boss & 5 quarts for CJ. Am I missing something? (thanks for posting that info, very cool) I just changed my oil w/5 quarts, should I add more. Sorry I didn't mean to change or take over this thread, glad Smir got his motor rebuilt and paid for by the guy who messed it up.


Ok I just figured it out, same pans, just different dipstick calibrations. Thank's Chuck
5 qts for all non boss clevelands . . if you have a windage tray, you can run at least another 1/2 qt . . 1 qt max.

 
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Chuck, it says 6 quarts for Boss & 5 quarts for CJ. Am I missing something? (thanks for posting that info, very cool) I just changed my oil w/5 quarts, should I add more. Sorry I didn't mean to change or take over this thread, glad Smir got his motor rebuilt and paid for by the guy who messed it up.


Ok I just figured it out, same pans, just different dipstick calibrations. Thank's Chuck
5 qts for all non boss clevelands . . if you have a windage tray, you can run at least another 1/2 qt . . 1 qt max.
Thank's barnett468!

 

salhi_aemr

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.

the stock type pump is fine if you dont spin the engine over 5000 rpm . . if you do, i would put a washer under the relief valve spring or install a high pressure spring . . i would never run a stock oil pump shaft on any performance engine.

do you need break in suggestions?

is it a non roller cam?

i would also run a wix or jomar or ford racing oil filter

Yes Barnett, what are you break in suggestions, its a non roller cam, Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts Comp Cam 270H


I am going with WIX 51515 Oil Filter

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Don C

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I agree with Chuck, standard oil pump and heavy duty shaft.

It looks like your pick up is a little beat up. I would make sure the tube isn't bent, twisted, kinked, or any holes in it. The screen has been pushed in, make sure the mesh hasn't compressed the holes, which could limit oil flow.

And, like Chuck said, check the clearance to the oil pan.

 

salhi_aemr

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barnett468

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Yes Barnett, what are you break in suggestions, its a non roller cam, Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts Comp Cam 270H
GAS TANK

If the gas tank has brown good from dried up gas clean it out, it will blow your engine up.

OIL

Joe gibbs break in oil

VALVE LASH

comp lifters are crap and they may make a ticking sound . . Adjust the comp lifters to 1/2 turn preload.

PRIME

Spin oil pump with 1/2” drill for 30 seconds.

Turn crank 180 degrees and spin pump for 10 seconds

Turn crank 180, spin for 10.

Turn 180, spin for 10.

TIMING

Turn engine until intake valve is fully closed then turn almost 1/2 turn until you see timing marks on damper and line them up with tdc.

Make sire the rotor is pointing to number 1 cylinder.

Remove all plug wires except for number 1 cylinder.

Plug the distributor vacuum advance.

Connect timing lite and turn engine over and set it to 10 btdc.

Reconnect plug wires.

THERMOSTAT

Remove it

RAD FLUID

Water only

HOSES

Tighten them, then tighten them again.

FAN

Put a big one in front of the rad.

STARTING

have someone start if while you operate the throttle on the carb.

instantly rev it up to around 2000 rpm and set idle screw.

after a few minutes the rpm will increase, reduce it to 2000 rpm.

 
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salhi_aemr

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Thank you Barnett, 2 thumbs up for your help, appreciate it :)

 
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